[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by TheZman

What kind of boost was he running?

I don't know, but was told it made upper-700s at the wheels. Which means roughly double the stock output of 412hp at the crank.

[MakCamaro]

Nice thread guys, why did you stop posting?

[LT1ornothing]

OP, you should really go drive both on the same day before you make a decision. The powerband are very different in both cars. The mustang seems to have all its power from 5,500 rpm to its 7,500 redline, below 5,500 rpm it felt very slow and little torque. The camaro on the other hand has tons of torque down low. For what it's worth, I only tried the manual transmissions on each. If you are thinking of going automatic, the mustang will be faster and cheaper to supercharge.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by TheZman

Im looking at buying a new 17 Camaro SS. Just wondering how strong the stock internals are for installing a Supercharger? Are they forged rods and crank like the 5.0 mustang but with hypereutec pistons? I know some guys with the new 5.0 putting down anywhere from 600whp to 750whp with no issues. Just hoping the Camaro can handle the same? Any Superchargers available that offer a full powertrain warranty like Roush does with Ford? If so which is the best for the LT1 engine . Im also researching this like crazy online but just wanted to ask here as well hoping to find some people with first hand experience and knowledge on the subject. .

The last shootout (Pony wars) between the Camaro, Mustang and Challenger..... after just one weekend: Mustang busted trans, Challenger with a hurt engine. I don't buy any 75% to 85% increase in HP (really a torque issue, but I digress) with no problems from ANY car. That is a 66% destruction rate in 2 days.

[95 imp]

You guys are 4 years too late with the advice!

[MakCamaro]

Never mind, it's a good thread, useful for the rest of us.

[BigGuy81]

Pray Performance won't tune a F/I car with a stock bottom end. That should tell you all you need to know.

If you want boost, budget for pistons/rods or save for the ZL1.

[KingLT1]

Brett chooses not to remote tune FI builds on the SBE for his own reasons and that is fine. That doesn't mean you can not run boost on a SBE with good results. I am sure part of the reason for him no longer tuning them is lack of time and headache associated with tuning them. Most running SBE with boost just want to slap a Supercharger on and not spend money on the fuel system. Most don't understand how to log good data and know when to get out of the throttle if it's lean or too much timing. A NA or forged build is more forgiving to errors where as Boosting a SBE LT1 much less forgiving. If I was in Brett's shoes I wouldn't tune them either. He has way too much going on to mess with that market. He caters more to those wanting to go all out with NA builds. Boost isn't really his game even though he has done a few boost builds that ran well over the years.

[oldman]

I don't know why, but it would seem that I keep agreeing with your post... must be getting old.

[abbadon3718]

I spoke to my tuner today to plan my build and he said it really comes down to tuning and fueling. Said as long as proper fueling, cooling, and tuning are done, stock LT1 internals handle upwards of 800+whp. Now he was talking cam & heads, meth, E85, proper intercooler, and fueling. But I asked specifically about pistons and rings and that’s what he said.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by abbadon3718

I spoke to my tuner today to plan my build and he said it really comes down to tuning and fueling. Said as long as proper fueling, cooling, and tuning are done, stock LT1 internals handle upwards of 800+whp. Now he was talking cam & heads, meth, E85, proper intercooler, and fueling. But I asked specifically about pistons and rings and that’s what he said.

Your tuner is not really being honest there. Just a few have claimed 800+ whp on stock pistons/rings LT1 engines, while many more than that have broken before reaching that level. Fact is that some LT1s come with ridiculously tight ring gaps, and some others are not as bad. Therefore not every LT1 could take the same level before it breaks. Your choice whether to roll the dice on the stock pistons/rings of course, just be aware of the risk before you spend your money. After all, that guy who is telling you that over 800 whp is safe on the stock LT1 pistons/rings is not going to pay to fix your engine if it breaks, you are.

[abbadon3718]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Your tuner is not really being honest there. Just a few have claimed 800+ whp on stock pistons/rings LT1 engines, while many more than that have broken before reaching that level. Fact is that some LT1s come with ridiculously tight ring gaps, and some others are not as bad. Therefore not every LT1 could take the same level before it breaks. Your choice whether to roll the dice on the stock pistons/rings of course, just be aware of the risk before you spend your money. After all, that guy who is telling you that over 800 whp is safe on the stock LT1 pistons/rings is not going to pay to fix your engine if it breaks, you are.

Well, his argument was detonation is what causes failures and proper tuning and fueling is what prevents detonation. Either way he's got several dozen 800-1000hp LT1's and some 9 second LT1 cars so he's either really good or really lucky. I'll ask him again before he actually starts on my cam/heads if I should buy a set of drop in pistons.

[Jhunsberger]

It would be a big mistake to be supercharged with heads and cam and NOT do pistons. If you are doing all that throw some pistons in there and forget about it.

[oldman]

A street driven car undergo FAR more stress that a trailer-ed race 1/4 mile car that see a few hundred street miles a year. GM for 650 Hp went to a titanium intake valve vs the hollow steel LT1 valve. Just one example. GM has to provide a warranty, ask your "tuner" if he is willing to do that. It is a near joke to pretend a 1000+ HP on production cast components, NA engine can live in any sort of street driving scenario, much less anything in the drive-train. I've already pointed out 3 cars at the power level we are talking about, with build engines / components, 2 out of 3 of them failed in a few days of testing. THAT IS REALITY.

For me "safe" in a DD that can go 100,000 miles and IMO it can't be done at all no matter the budget at 800 WHP. I think 730 whp maybe doable, just maybe, with top shelf components, hopefully, just maybe... but probably not. Do I know what will fail? I got a pretty good idea and it consist of just about EVERYTHIHNG in the drivetrain from lifter to valve to the undercut crank, to the input shaft of the M6 trans to the donuts on the driveshaft to the axles to the welded ring gear. Your on crack if you even pretend a 9 second car is a DD without a fat wallet and a mechanic on call. I can believe a lightened 5,000 mile a year on the road, NA car may last a few seasons into the 9s with some failure around 20 to 30 K miles. Of course it would need a bunch of built components, valve spring swap every 10 to 15K miles, etc. Pretty impressive but NA, at least IMO would be key to keep drivetrain failure down. Of course I'm thinking a SS (like the OP), the Zl1 has some advantages here but it will be fighting a weight problem and it is torque (as well as heat) that destroys performance cars. I have my stage 3 build below, it has been say 18 months as a DD (I'm retired so that is very little miles now), I have only a 50% confidence level that my build will make 10 years /100 K miles. I have in my mind what will probably fail first (transmission input shaft), but I would not be surprised if the driveshaft donuts blow out first, or the undercut crank bust at the last journal due to cyclic stress.