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Old 04-04-2017, 01:43 PM   #15
2SSRS@Gen5diy
 
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Last time. answer to your technical explanation.

this is from the E-bay link you posted if you have time read before posting.

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While both of these things serve the same purpose, one may be better suited for a task than another. For example, load resistors are better suited for stopping hyper-flashing in turn signals whereas decoders are not.

Decoders are better suited with usage on HID conversion kits on European vehicles to prevent error messages.


Now how it works, loud resisters are set to how many Amps to consume ie 3 OHM use X and the bulbs use Y together its X+Y=Z the The BCM is looking for Z+- 10% so your good with the said Resister.

The E-bay parts have a Cap and more parts in them, the extra resisters in the Decoders work to min the hyper-flashing on the turn signal but that does not work all the time as the Ohm are not what the BCM is looking for, its not in the range its looking for.

one more thing if you want to use caps no need to spend that much for all that here is a pic of the right Cap to fix the spike in V that GM calls a test signal.

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Old 04-04-2017, 01:47 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Nookz View Post
Just waiting for 2SSRS@Gen5diy to respond and explain that your blinker fluid will not work for him, because he's tracking the car ten times harder than everbody else combined.
"Life is hard, it is even harder when you are stupid"
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Old 04-04-2017, 02:47 PM   #17
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"Life is hard, it is even harder when you are stupid"
Was that directed to 2SSRS@Gen5diy, or did you not realize that I was being sarcastic on the "blinker fluid"?

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Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy View Post
Now how it works, loud resisters are set to how many Amps to consume ie 3 OHM use X and the bulbs use Y together its X+Y=Z the The BCM is looking for Z+- 10% so your good with the said Resister.

The E-bay parts have a Cap and more parts in them, the extra resisters in the Decoders work to min the hyper-flashing on the turn signal but that does not work all the time as the Ohm are not what the BCM is looking for, its not in the range its looking for.
Yes, and this is all very obvious! Especially that this part is not consuming as much amperage as the resistors.
However, it is NOT an explanation, why the BCM sometimes decides it's enough and sometimes it doesn't. (With the simple explanation you are giving, it should either work all of the time or not at all.)

What I was looking for was the technical details behind this phenomenon (e.g. voltage/amperage variations of the circuit due to different conditions of altenator, consumers, etc.). Just thought that maybe somebody has tried the same, actually measured any amperage drops while running, or whatever.
Guess you're just trying to help (and I apologize for being sarcastic earlier ), but until now, you have only told me stuff I already know... multiple times.

Or alternatively a constructive solution: Create a harness (I don't care what components you use as long as it does not get terribly hot, so it could damage any parts around it) and I will buy one immediately and shut up about this topic forever!

Cheers,
Len
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:07 PM   #18
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We dont have the schematic for the Decoder, so have know way of knowing what parts are in the unit, there are Cap and resistors are in the unit, if its adding or taking out Ohm that is why it does not work 100% of the time. and i am not trying to sale on your thread, trying to help, i know some time it may not seem that way. LOL
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:32 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy View Post
and i am not trying to sale on your thread, trying to help, i know some time it may not seem that way. LOL
Well, but no worries, because I've specifically asked for that.
I'm sure that I'm by far not the only one who would love to have their turn signals in led without the naked hot resistor and cutting their wires.
Anything you could create?
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:40 PM   #20
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Funny part is we did that to our 2SS car on day 1, and on top of that there amber and white, i will get a pic up if i have time, PS the heat is fixed you know that dont you ? its finding the components at a good price for the front turn signals that is hard
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:28 PM   #21
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What do you mean by "heat is fixed"?
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Old 04-04-2017, 05:08 PM   #22
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Trade secret, but take my word for it, what we did will fix the heat, the test we did was go from 12+ to ground on a car battery and after 10 min that way you can still hod the resister it was warm but not hot.
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Old 04-04-2017, 11:53 PM   #23
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Trade secret, but take my word for it, what we did will fix the heat, the test we did was go from 12+ to ground on a car battery and after 10 min that way you can still hod the resister it was warm but not hot.
Interested to buy. Send me a PM with the details!
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Old 04-07-2017, 03:56 AM   #24
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Interested to buy. Send me a PM with the details!
So...?
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Old 04-09-2017, 02:24 AM   #25
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@2SSRS@Gen5diy: So since you have neither sent me a PN nor responded on this topic in this thread (although you've cleary been active here in the meantime), I can assume you have simply been lying about having a solution available without the heat issue?!
Nice, mate. Also leaves a really great impression on Gen5DIY...
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Old 04-09-2017, 05:39 AM   #26
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Dude calm down and listen to what they are telling you!! Ofer and his crew at Gen5diy know there stuff and do a lot for the Camaro world starting with the 5th Gen. I have bought his wiring application for what I wanted to do and they work flawlessly and high quality using OEM connectors. Him and his shop are very busy finding solutions to the upgrades we want to do to our cars. With the new ZL1 out they are busy again on things people want to do to swap out parts. Good luck on what you are trying to do. I hope you get it worked out.
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Old 04-09-2017, 06:34 AM   #27
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Dude calm down and listen to what they are telling you!!
I did. And when I said that my only concern with the standard solution is the resisor getting extremely hot, so it might damage other parts, he clearly stated that he had a solution for this since a long time. But then again, him suddenly not responding here (although he has been active in other threads) doesn't really underline him actually having the solution he said he has.

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Good luck on what you are trying to do. I hope you get it worked out.
Cheers. If I should find a solution, be sure I'll post it here for everyone.
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:25 AM   #28
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We put a high temp weave insulator on the resister, takes 1350 degree heat and is only warm to the touch.
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