[GearheadSS]

Originally Posted by redcoats1976

i cant imagine maintenance costs on a mid engine car...

Why would you think that it would cost more for maintenance on a C8 vs. a C7? With the exception of the transmission filter change for the DCT, there's nothing maintenance wise that is any different. Moving the engine doesn't magically raise maintenance costs to Ferrari or Lambo levels.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Idaho2018GTPremium

This is incorrect on the LT4. The LT4 makes 650 crank SAE certified horsepower after subtracting the parasitic losses from the supercharger which is around 60 hp give or take. So the engine is really making over 700 hp, but it takes 60 some horsepower at full boost to run the supercharger.

I think there’s more drivetrain losses in the ZL1 Compared to an SS because of the heavier duty drivetrain; heavier transmission, etc., Due to the high torque rating of the engine And the drive train required to handle that torque.

No, I'm correct.

SAE HP is given at crank without losses from accessories.

There's NO WAY a ZL1 has 2x the drivetrain loss vs a SS.

Your LT4 makes 650 HP and 550 WHP. SS makes 455 HP and 405 WHP. It's 150 more vs an SS, not 200 because of supercharger losses, not drivetrain losses.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

No, I'm correct.

SAE HP is given at crank without losses from accessories.

There's NO WAY a ZL1 has 2x the drivetrain loss vs a SS.

Your LT4 makes 650 HP and 550 WHP. SS makes 455 HP and 305 WHP. It's 150 more vs an SS, not 200 because of supercharger losses, not drivetrain losses.

You probably meant 385 or 395 WHP.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

You probably meant 385 or 395 WHP.

He meant to type 405 as that’s what he wrote before. That being said I’m not sure he is factoring in the fact that the higher the crank hp, the more gets lost going to the wheels. I think the general rule of thumb is for a front engine rwd car you lose about 12% hp from the crank to the wheels. The higher the crank hp, the higher that 12% number becomes. For example 455*.88 is the 405 whp number he is referring too. I also think when he said 550 whp for lt4’s is a bit lower than what I’ve seen (560+ whp is what I’ve seen stock).

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by BluinSC

Probably release it right before production starts for added hype

Bingo. No way they spill all the details on the very first day.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

He meant to type 405 as that’s what he wrote before. That being said I’m not sure he is factoring in the fact that the higher the crank hp, the more gets lost going to the wheels. I think the general rule of thumb is for a front engine rwd car you lose about 12% hp from the crank to the wheels. The higher the crank hp, the higher that 12% number becomes. For example 455*.88 is the 405 whp number he is referring too. I also think when he said 550 whp for lt4’s is a bit lower than what I’ve seen (560+ whp is what I’ve seen stock).

Yup, 405 is typical for LT1 w M6. Even at 560 whp for the LT4, it's almost double the SS, and this is NOT drivetrain losses! ZL1's drivetrain is almost identical, no way it sucks down 2x the power vs a SS!

And the C8s brand new drivetrain is probably at least as efficient vs the Camaro M6 so I'd guess the C8Z will put down 60-70 whp more than a LT4.

[Puddin]

Originally Posted by GearheadSS

Why would you think that it would cost more for maintenance on a C8 vs. a C7? With the exception of the transmission filter change for the DCT, there's nothing maintenance wise that is any different. Moving the engine doesn't magically raise maintenance costs to Ferrari or Lambo levels.

It won't be Ferrari and Lambo levels but id guarantee that it is more expensive to work on.. I've looked in the back of a C8 and it looks incredibly cramped back there.

[Idaho2018GTPremium]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

No, I'm correct.

SAE HP is given at crank without losses from accessories.

There's NO WAY a ZL1 has 2x the drivetrain loss vs a SS.

Your LT4 makes 650 HP and 550 WHP. SS makes 455 HP and 305 WHP. It's 150 more vs an SS, not 200 because of supercharger losses, not drivetrain losses.

The LT4 is SAE J1349 certified, which is in fact the net rating (https://www.sae.org/standards/content/j1349_200803/), which includes accessories (and the supercharger parasitic loss), as installed in the car.

See page 2 for proof of this rating: https://poweredsolutions.gm.com/prod...ifications.pdf

Losses through the drivetrain are typically based on a percentage of the power output, not a set hp value - and are only an estimate. Baseline for front engine RWD cars is about 12%, as someone else also stated above. A heavier duty drivetrain, as installed in the ZL1 compared to an SS, will have a higher % of parasitic losses - that's a fact - due to requiring more energy to turn the components.

I have seen SS dyno under 400 rwhp, and I've seen stock ZL1s dyno 570+ hp. There's a variance amongst dynos as well, so no one value can be assumed.

But let's look at the % loss:

12% of 455 hp = 55 hp = 400 rwhp
13% of 650 hp = 85 hp = 565 rwhp. (13% loss assumed due to heavier drivetrain components - but in reality it may be more like 13.5 or 14%)

The ZL1 makes 650 crank hp as installed in the car, as it is SAE J1349 certified, which is a net rating.

[serper3]

Originally Posted by Puddin

It won't be Ferrari and Lambo levels but id guarantee that it is more expensive to work on.. I've looked in the back of a C8 and it looks incredibly cramped back there.

The maintenance may be pretty similar. But a lot of repairs will be more expensive. Look at pretty much any work that needs to be done to a porsche. step one is drop the engine and that is not cheap.

Also, look at the cost of building coyote, trinity, etc dohc vs ls based engines. its more expensive. takes more time to time, etc. parts costs, etc.

[DRKS1D3]

I've put a lot of money into my C7 GS and I'm still having fun with it. With that being said, I'll be waiting a few years until I can find a gently used C8 ZO6 that I can snatch up for a fair price. This sucker is going to RIP!!!

The best way to buy a "fun car" is to wait until someone has their fun and gives it up with low miles.