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Old 02-06-2020, 10:17 AM   #15
ctrlz


 
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There is another monumental thread around here lamenting the lack of a CD player. You will gel flamed to death for not copying mp3 files to a USB drive or using Bluetooth to play music off your phone.
There is an aux port, so I think the simplest solution is buy a portable CD player off amazon and use the aux input.
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Old 02-06-2020, 04:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2SS Capt View Post
The funny thing is, my 2020 2SS has the Bose 9 speaker system, but I have hardly even listened to it, I love the sound of my NPP much better than the stereo!!!
We are kindred spirits, haha, along with many here on the forum. Interestingly, I almost instinctively turn on the radio when I pull out of the garage, only to turn it off a few minutes later.

On longer highway trips in dense traffic I do listen to music, and the audio ion this car is very good, but not great IMO.
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Old 03-15-2020, 09:05 PM   #17
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Where are the locations for the speakers? I know about the 2 doors, 2 deck lid, 2 on dash. Where are the other 3?
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Old 03-16-2020, 12:48 PM   #18
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What size fuses does it use?
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Old 03-20-2020, 03:00 AM   #19
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the 5th gen was 150w. 6th is probably the same.
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Old 03-20-2020, 09:30 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Jverado View Post
Where are the locations for the speakers? I know about the 2 doors, 2 deck lid, 2 on dash. Where are the other 3?
1 Front center and 1 on each side of rear seat
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Old 05-10-2022, 09:02 AM   #21
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600 watts? 900 watts? How about smoke and mirrors!

How about a clean 50 watts. I purchased the Bose speakers from a wrecked 2SS and the junkyard guy confirmed that figure. I put the front Bose 6x9 spealers in my car and there are foam pieces that surround the front of the speaker grill....like cupping cheap headphones around your ear for more bass. The tighter the seal, the more Bass.
With Bose ot hasnt always been smoke and mirrors, but the cheapest way to able to slap a Bose badge on a grill is what Chevy wants.....and gets.
I put a Pioneer sealed powered 350w rms 12" sub and backstrapped it to the thin rear seat. Since there are no speakers in the rear deck...the bass flows unimpeded into the passenger compartment. and is one of my most successful installs to date. I bought the front 6×9 Bose pair of speakers on eBay (made of low end paper) and bolted them in. They sound exactly the same as before, but $30 gets me Bose badges and adds $1500 of value. Sorry dude. Watts are almost meaningless these days. I bet it doesnt fart at high volume. Right? Well, only 2 speakers are amped. The rest have 7.5 watts rms.
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Old 05-14-2022, 09:00 AM   #22
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Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by gblaue View Post
P=V^2/R = (10*10)/1 = 100/1 = 100W

That's pretty much the best you can do on battery.
In terms of how many watts of stereo power is possible, with the fixed voltage, it’s more a question of properly sizing your wiring/fusing for the current needed, sizing your alternator to provide enough current to recharge the battery, supply car electrical needs, plus stereo needs, and then for battery, if engine not running, the number of amp-hours of current over time tells you how long it can supply the current needed for a certain volume level.

For background, this guy is awesome - Mark from Car Audio Fabrication:

How to plan car audio ELECTRICAL system wiring - Is the alternator big enough
Upgrade THESE for better Car Audio performance

For one of Mark’s examples where he might require 80 amps at full volume, a standard alternator supplies 160 amps current (so 80 left for other car features), and a battery rated 160 amp-hours could power the stereo for 2 hours.

My system for example is 1400 watts at full rated output of Class D power - and with the top down at highway speed, it can cope.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=561714


Last edited by Plasar; 05-14-2022 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 05-16-2022, 07:53 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasar View Post
In terms of how many watts of stereo power is possible, with the fixed voltage, it’s more a question of properly sizing your wiring/fusing for the current needed, sizing your alternator to provide enough current to recharge the battery, supply car electrical needs, plus stereo needs, and then for battery, if engine not running, the number of amp-hours of current over time tells you how long it can supply the current needed for a certain volume level.

For background, this guy is awesome - Mark from Car Audio Fabrication:

How to plan car audio ELECTRICAL system wiring - Is the alternator big enough
Upgrade THESE for better Car Audio performance

For one of Mark’s examples where he might require 80 amps at full volume, a standard alternator supplies 160 amps current (so 80 left for other car features), and a battery rated 160 amp-hours could power the stereo for 2 hours.

My system for example is 1400 watts at full rated output of Class D power - and with the top down at highway speed, it can cope.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=561714

To get above the 100W limit, your amplifier needs to include a boost converter to bring your battery voltage up. Ohms law cannot be outdone.

P=I*E
If "E" goes down "I" needs to go up to satisfy Ohms Law. (If you know how to get around this, book your tickets to Stockholm to collect your Nobel price! ;-) )

So, to maintain E (Battery voltage), you need a higher output alternator.

Battery wire gauge is very important in a car, because of the 12.7 volt battery. Voltage drop across the wire can significantly reduce your output, with respect to THD+N.

The one thing that we have always been excited about was the possibility of the electrical systems in the car going to 48V. Unfortunately, it never really took off. Maybe, in the future, they will let us drink from the 300V batteries in the electric cars.

From my original statement:

P=V^2/R = (10*10)/1 = 100/1 = 100W

Let's say the battery voltage has dropped to 12V (due to sagging battery or voltage drop across the B+ line), which will yield the output stage voltage to be around 9.5V:
P=V^2/R = 9.5*9.5)/1 = 90.5/1 = 90.5W

You've lost 10W. While in SPL, 10W here doesn't really make any difference, it will make a difference in THD+N when driven hard.

1400W? How many channels?
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Last edited by gblaue; 05-16-2022 at 08:10 AM.
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Old 05-17-2022, 12:02 PM   #24
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Per build list at link:

1 RF T400X4AD - RockfordFosgate 4 x 100 watts
1 RF T1000X5AD - RockfordFosgate 4 x 100 watts + 1 x 600 watts

This is the only posting I’ve ever seen claiming max power for a car stereo is 100 watts - I’ll let other folks comment from here.
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Old 05-17-2022, 01:12 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasar View Post
Per build list at link:

1 RF T400X4AD - RockfordFosgate 4 x 100 watts
1 RF T1000X5AD - RockfordFosgate 4 x 100 watts + 1 x 600 watts

This is the only posting I’ve ever seen claiming max power for a car stereo is 100 watts - I’ll let other folks comment from here.
You missed a subtle hint, as to what I do for a living, in my post........

With a car battery at 14.4V, and no boost supply in the amplifier, about a 100W into 1 Ohm is going to be the limit.

Your RF amps are probably running the battery boosted to 21-22VDC.

P=V^2/R = 20V^2/4 Ohms = 100W
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Last edited by gblaue; 05-17-2022 at 01:54 PM.
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