Adding a heated steering wheel - Page 2

aa406079 · 04-24-2017, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

There is more going on then you know.

Gen5.... Would love a solution ... I think a fair few folks would pay good $$$ for a kit...

My installer needs more info to proceed...

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...424-132312.png

2SSRS@Gen5diy · 04-25-2017, 02:28 PM

Did you know you will need a 7.5 amp fuse to make this work, maybe.

Alpha1BC · 04-27-2017, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aa406079

Gen5.... Would love a solution ... I think a fair few folks would pay good $$$ for a kit...

My installer needs more info to proceed...

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...424-132312.png

AA, you're on the right track! The "extra" connector in the bottom of the wheel is definitely for the wheel heater. You need a different clock spring PN 23465301 that has the connector for the wheel heater "extra" connector to plug in to on the steering wheel side of the clock spring. This new clock spring also has a SECOND pigtail on the column side that needs to be connected to 12V controlled by the ignition, and include a minimum 7.5A fuse. There are 2 wires on extra clock spring pigtail, brown (maybe a different color?) is 12V IGN power and black is ground. Unfortunately, I don't think the main IP wire harness has the pigtail needed to plug the clock spring into, so this would probably need to be wired in on your own. I would probably piggyback a cigarette lighter circuit as you'll draw max 7.5 Amps momentarily at startup, but shouldn't be above 1 or 2 amps once the wheel is has reached temperature

DO NOT do anything to the wires/connectors shown in your 3rd pic. The black one is all of your other steering wheel controls, and the yellow one is your airbag. You will for sure want the new clock spring that has the proper connections and will allow you to turn the wheel while without risk of breaking any wires.

Another note to anyone who installs the new clock spring: MAKE SURE THE CLOCK SPRING IS NOT ALLOWED TO ROTATE PRIOR TO INSTALLING!!!! If the clock spring is not at it's centered position when installed, it will break the connection inside the clock spring if the wheel is turned between the two steering stops. This means that you will have no airbag and no steering wheel controls.

2SSRS@Gen5diy · 04-27-2017, 02:23 PM

We ordered all the part on Monday, they will be here next week, we think we can do it with out replacing the clock spring, will let you know soon.

Alpha1BC · 04-30-2017, 11:10 AM

Good news! I was able to confirm that it is indeed just 12V that needs to be supplied to the heater connector.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

We ordered all the part on Monday, they will be here next week, we think we can do it with out replacing the clock spring, will let you know soon.

@gen5diy - how do you plan to do this without the correct clock spring? Maybe I'm missing something, but the only ways I can think to do it without changing the clock spring are unsafe and/or could cause damage to the other switches on the wheel and components they control.

2SSRS@Gen5diy · 05-01-2017, 03:34 PM

We got the parts in, and you will need to upgrade the clock spring, it has the 2 wires needed to supply both 12+ and ground for the heater, PS on the colome side in the new harness coming out of the clock spring, is a fuss holder for the new fuss, its built inline, not all that is needed is to get the connector and run the wires back to power and ground.

2SSRS@Gen5diy · 05-02-2017, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

AA, you're on the right track! The "extra" connector in the bottom of the wheel is definitely for the wheel heater. You need a different clock spring PN 23465301 that has the connector for the wheel heater "extra" connector to plug in to on the steering wheel side of the clock spring. This new clock spring also has a SECOND pigtail on the column side that needs to be connected to 12V controlled by the ignition, and include a minimum 7.5A fuse. There are 2 wires on extra clock spring pigtail, brown (maybe a different color?) is 12V IGN power and black is ground. Unfortunately, I don't think the main IP wire harness has the pigtail needed to plug the clock spring into, so this would probably need to be wired in on your own. I would probably piggyback a cigarette lighter circuit as you'll draw max 7.5 Amps momentarily at startup, but shouldn't be above 1 or 2 amps once the wheel is has reached temperature

DO NOT do anything to the wires/connectors shown in your 3rd pic. The black one is all of your other steering wheel controls, and the yellow one is your airbag. You will for sure want the new clock spring that has the proper connections and will allow you to turn the wheel while without risk of breaking any wires.

Another note to anyone who installs the new clock spring: MAKE SURE THE CLOCK SPRING IS NOT ALLOWED TO ROTATE PRIOR TO INSTALLING!!!! If the clock spring is not at it's centered position when installed, it will break the connection inside the clock spring if the wheel is turned between the two steering stops. This means that you will have no airbag and no steering wheel controls.

GM got smart and installed a lock out clip to keep you from doing that.

ny tdi · 05-29-2017, 04:43 PM

Anyone know if you can install a heated wheel on a non-heated car? I have a suede wheel that I want to install on my 1LT, but the suede wheel is heated.

I don't need the heat to work, I just want to install the suede wheel. Do all the plugs match up? Do I need a different airbag?

ny tdi · 05-29-2017, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

We got the parts in, and you will need to upgrade the clock spring, it has the 2 wires needed to supply both 12+ and ground for the heater, PS on the colome side in the new harness coming out of the clock spring, is a fuss holder for the new fuss, its built inline, not all that is needed is to get the connector and run the wires back to power and ground.

So did you guys get this to work?

ny tdi · 05-29-2017, 09:16 PM

Bump

Alpha1BC · 05-31-2017, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ny tdi

Anyone know if you can install a heated wheel on a non-heated car? I have a suede wheel that I want to install on my 1LT, but the suede wheel is heated.

I don't need the heat to work, I just want to install the suede wheel. Do all the plugs match up? Do I need a different airbag?

Yes, wheel will bolt in directly and any electrical/airbag function you have on your factory wheel will work. Heated wheel won't work without further modification (see below). There's another post that has a video explaining how to change the steering wheel on this forum.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ny tdi

So did you guys get this to work?

I personally haven't gotten a wheel to try it yet, but here are the steps needed to get heat to work that need to be done when changing the wheel:

Replace the clock spring - Need to use GM PN 23465301 to have the proper connectors to hook up the heating element
wire the clock spring to 12V and ground - As I mentioned before, I believe brown (maybe a different color?) = 12V and black = ground. You'll want to put a 7.5A fuse in line on the 12V side, and will need to find something to piggy-back that gets 12V when the car is on.

From there, it's just a matter of plugging everything else in.

ny tdi · 06-09-2017, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Yes, wheel will bolt in directly and any electrical/airbag function you have on your factory wheel will work. Heated wheel won't work without further modification (see below). There's another post that has a video explaining how to change the steering wheel on this forum.

I personally haven't gotten a wheel to try it yet, but here are the steps needed to get heat to work that need to be done when changing the wheel:

Replace the clock spring - Need to use GM PN 23465301 to have the proper connectors to hook up the heating element
wire the clock spring to 12V and ground - As I mentioned before, I believe brown (maybe a different color?) = 12V and black = ground. You'll want to put a 7.5A fuse in line on the 12V side, and will need to find something to piggy-back that gets 12V when the car is on.

From there, it's just a matter of plugging everything else in.

Thanks for confirming. Getting heat to work would be nice, but it's good to know that I can get the.wheel installed just fine.

ThePeoplesCamaro · 04-13-2021, 03:07 PM

Reviving an old thread for some help. So I’m trying to use one of my rev match paddles as a two step momentary switch. I’ve already confirmed this will work. Simply looking for a way to route two wires for the two step through the steering column to connect to the paddle switch. Any ideas or solutions.

David1987 · 11-14-2021, 05:24 PM

Interesting post. I have a 2016 LT with the V6 and when I looked at the fuse box I had fuses for a sunroof and heated wheel although my car has none of these. Maybe I can simply swap for a heated wheel since the fuses are already there and I can see they have connections in the fuse box because there is metal where the fuses are to power them up already s

04-25-2017, 02:28 PM	#16
2SSRS@Gen5diy Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: By the lake in AZ Posts: 15,719 View My Garage	Did you know you will need a 7.5 amp fuse to make this work, maybe. Last edited by 2SSRS@Gen5diy; 04-25-2017 at 04:51 PM.

05-29-2017, 09:16 PM	#24
ny tdi Drives: 2016 1LT V6 6MT Convertible Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: New York City Posts: 95	Bump Bump

04-27-2017, 02:23 PM	#18
2SSRS@Gen5diy Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: By the lake in AZ Posts: 15,719 View My Garage	We ordered all the part on Monday, they will be here next week, we think we can do it with out replacing the clock spring, will let you know soon.

05-01-2017, 03:34 PM	#20
2SSRS@Gen5diy Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: By the lake in AZ Posts: 15,719 View My Garage	We got the parts in, and you will need to upgrade the clock spring, it has the 2 wires needed to supply both 12+ and ground for the heater, PS on the colome side in the new harness coming out of the clock spring, is a fuss holder for the new fuss, its built inline, not all that is needed is to get the connector and run the wires back to power and ground.

05-29-2017, 04:43 PM	#22
ny tdi Drives: 2016 1LT V6 6MT Convertible Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: New York City Posts: 95	Anyone know if you can install a heated wheel on a non-heated car? I have a suede wheel that I want to install on my 1LT, but the suede wheel is heated. I don't need the heat to work, I just want to install the suede wheel. Do all the plugs match up? Do I need a different airbag?

04-13-2021, 03:07 PM	#27
ThePeoplesCamaro Patriot Drives: 2019 Camaro 1SS 1LE Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Texas Posts: 136	Reviving an old thread for some help. So I’m trying to use one of my rev match paddles as a two step momentary switch. I’ve already confirmed this will work. Simply looking for a way to route two wires for the two step through the steering column to connect to the paddle switch. Any ideas or solutions.

11-14-2021, 05:24 PM	#28
David1987 Drives: 2016 Camaro LT V6 Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: West Covina Posts: 25	Interesting post. I have a 2016 LT with the V6 and when I looked at the fuse box I had fuses for a sunroof and heated wheel although my car has none of these. Maybe I can simply swap for a heated wheel since the fuses are already there and I can see they have connections in the fuse box because there is metal where the fuses are to power them up already s

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