[MeanGreen1LE]

I’ve been thinking about starting a journal for a long time so much of this is from the past going back almost 5 years now.

I ordered the car I believe late 2016 as soon as orders for krypton opened up. What a wait, it seemed like it took forever. Tracked it through this forum with Becky D.

Build will eventually go into detail on heads cam swap but will take me a while to do all the pictures.

[MeanGreen1LE]

I have stupid gravel roads so when I actually drive the gravel is intense. I’ve had reasonable success with slowing chips down with vinyl on other vehicles.
I hate working with paint protection film or I would use that.

May 2017

[MeanGreen1LE]

More attempts at protecting paint.
The rear ones work pretty good. I’ve never been a fan of how the front ones are attached even using adhesion promoter. I don’t trust them to stay there.
Added drywall hanger to increase support. Pic does not show it but I used a sharpie to blacken it.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Added black trunk vinyl. Stupid expensive SS badge. Don’t remember how much it was. From emblem pros. Looks cool in certain light. Been there a while May go back to black bow tie.
October 2017

[MeanGreen1LE]

Decided the vinyl wasn’t going to cut it. Added ACS zl1 style ground effects. Did not enjoy drilling holes in my car but these look awesome fit great and provide a lot of protection!

Late October 2017.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Road trip with my family and my brothers. I sold that GTO to him to buy the camaro.

[MeanGreen1LE]

So excited to start getting parts for heads and cam swap. I’ve been into cars my entire life and it’s the first time I’ve taken the plunge to do a project like this.

Mast Motorsports black label medium bore Lt1 heads and tsp long tube headers.

Heads are gorgeous but I don’t think I’d buy from them again. They are almost non responsive when you need to know even basic questions.

First example of this: gpi needed valve free drop to create my custom cam and I tried multiple times over a couple weeks and they would never respond. I took springs off for one cylinder and checked myself using caliper and dial indicator.

[MeanGreen1LE]

It is February 2021. Received many parts and it’s time to start. I have been researching like crazy and think I’m going to try doing it in the car. I apologize it’s about to get super pic intensive. But I’m very visual and hopefully it helps someone. I remember being almost sick with nerves.

My diagrams and labels are pretty crap at first but I think they get a lot better as I go so don’t judge for the first few steps.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Remove negative battery cable. Leave driver side door slightly open so the window will stay down and you will not mess your weatherstripping up if you need to open your car while the batteries unhooked. I wanted to be able to run battery tender while the car is down because I suspect it’s going to take a month or two. Had to remove several panels to be able to access positive terminal to charge battery. I had to take so much off I may go ahead and replace the battery while everything is moved at the end of the project. All parts located in bag 1A. Four plastic nuts 3 tree clips which are terrible things.
Parts bag located by tire inflator kit. added towels to protect paint from battery tender cord as well as prevent hatch from latching while battery is disconnected.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Good info online, (lethal has several helpful vids)
Remove driver passenger front wheels.
Pull fender liner back by removing 4 t-15 torx. (Pic 2-a)
Four large washer 7 mm bolts upper fender. (Pic 2-b)
two shorter small washer 7 mm and one large washer 7 mm behind clearance light. (Pic 2-c)
(2-d)
On driver side remember to unplug headlight plug. (2-e) Remove circled clips for easier access remember to slide red tab at arrow before squeezing the release; man was kind of difficult.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Bag 2-B bottom air dam
12 7 mm bolts around perimeter of spoiler lower air dam. (2-g-i)
Bag 2-C upper
3 t-15 and 1 tree push pin per side. Driver 2C-A passenger 2C-b. Parts box 1
Recommend automotive grade painters tape on either side of fender and bumper cover for removal to help reduce potential for scratches. Also two people would obviously be easier but you can be done by oneself as I just did.
Bumper cover will stand up on its own with 1le splitter.
Latch plate cover. (Has Chevy performance emblem). Bag 3 and part 3. Parts box 1
4 10mm bolts and 1 tree push pin on passenger. Do Not undo tor X bolts as they are adjustment screws!

[MeanGreen1LE]

Lower cooler cover bag 4 and large plastic part 4
6 10 mm bolts
6. 7 mm bolts
1 latching push pin.

Cradle cover covers (plastic) part 5 a (driver) and 5b (passenger) stored by bumper cover.
On each side 3,10 mm bolts underneath two t-15 tor X on the side and one lock in pushpin on the side

[MeanGreen1LE]

Camaro covers 6
Basically pop/pry up

Air box removal 7
Remove sound tube
Disengage maf connector. Remember to slide red locking tab back before trying to press and remove.
Release clamp. Can open by hand
Loosen hose clamp the throttle body
Remove clamp by gently pushing grey tab
Remove clamp and remove hose (parts 7-5 and 7-6 parts box 1)
Gently remove the entire air intake. Make sure grommets stay in car. ( will be replacing with roto. Wrapped maf sensor with Rag and tape for safe keeping. I know they are fragile in some cars. Will need some elbows on intake too.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Sound tube 8
Remove two t-50 bolts attached to the water pump.
Pull apart clamps on tube 2 places
Remove the 10 mm bolt on firewall.
Rotafab kit comes with a back off plate to seal this off after removal.
Get that stupid messy crap out.

Pcv hoses removal 9
Front over throttle body
Continued
Catch can to valve cover
Continued

Valve cover covers 10
Two t-27 per side.
Must take oil cap off drivers side.
Parts in box 1

Intake cover 11
Remove wire stays 4 on each side.
Remove sensor connector
Remove 10mm pedestal bolts x4
Pop fuel line holders off intake cover.

Dirty pvc and evap 12 box 1 parts bag 12
Dirty pcv top. In parts bag.
Dirty pcv bottom. Goes intake to valley short
Evap line to throttle body.
Connects to silver evap line.