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Old 03-29-2021, 10:52 AM   #1
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LT1 versus LT4 GM standard block build

edit: Stupid idea, I forgot the LT4 low compression pistons are part pf the short block.

I have this offbeat idea that some of you engineers and GM folks might be able to flush out (or flush down )

What would the $$ or practical limitation be to use the same block build for the LT1, LT2, and LT4?

In other words if all the LT blocks have the good stuff how much more does that cost to go LT4? And would simplifying the two build processeses to one save some of those $$ back for the more expensive parts and block casting?

This might also save warranty work to some extent with stronger internals. But I suppose the LT4 block also might need more of an assemblers manual attention/time.

Like all SSes have track cooling which is used by (guessing here) 10% of Camaro owners including the 1LEs could this another plus for SSes? Espcially if you track.
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Old 03-29-2021, 11:58 AM   #2
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Good question. I've heard the blocks and heads are different material but I dont know. Looks like the vendors use lt1 blocks for most of their stroker engines they sell.
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Old 03-29-2021, 04:02 PM   #3
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I'm not sure if you're just referring to the block casting itself, or the short block, or the long block. That said, the LT1 and LT4 blocks are similar, but the LT4 has additional pressure relieving holes in the lifter valleys to help allow for better oil draining. I'm not sure what other minute differences there are, but I'm sure there are others.

Practically everything that bolts up to the block itself, however, as I'm sure you're aware, is upgraded or improved over the LT1, so making the LT4 short block or long block into a standard LT1 would be too expensive. For example, the forged LT4 crank is stronger than the forged LT1 crank (which fails when subjected to extreme tests at LT4 power levels). The LT4 heads are Rotocast 656T6 alumimum - a stronger casting method and a stronger material itself.

Of course, there's many other differences in the long blocks as well.
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Old 03-30-2021, 09:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho2018GTPremium View Post
I'm not sure if you're just referring to the block casting itself, or the short block, or the long block. That said, the LT1 and LT4 blocks are similar, but the LT4 has additional pressure relieving holes in the lifter valleys to help allow for better oil draining. I'm not sure what other minute differences there are, but I'm sure there are others.

Practically everything that bolts up to the block itself, however, as I'm sure you're aware, is upgraded or improved over the LT1, so making the LT4 short block or long block into a standard LT1 would be too expensive. For example, the forged LT4 crank is stronger than the forged LT1 crank (which fails when subjected to extreme tests at LT4 power levels). The LT4 heads are Rotocast 656T6 alumimum - a stronger casting method and a stronger material itself.

Of course, there's many other differences in the long blocks as well.
The LT4 crank is improved over the LT1 but you would never reach the potential to see the difference unless the thrust bearing is addressed in the LT4. That is the weak link in all LT motors. Kind of a shame really...put all of those nice parts in a LT4 then limit it with that shit half thrust bearing design that allows the crank to walk in high power applications. I believe you could go further if you removed the PD and went Turbo to take the stress off the end of the crank. Likely how LPE reached 1400hp on a engine dyno with a SBE LT4.
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Old 03-30-2021, 12:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho2018GTPremium View Post
I'm not sure if you're just referring to the block casting itself, or the short block, or the long block. That said, the LT1 and LT4 blocks are similar, but the LT4 has additional pressure relieving holes in the lifter valleys to help allow for better oil draining. I'm not sure what other minute differences there are, but I'm sure there are others.

Practically everything that bolts up to the block itself, however, as I'm sure you're aware, is upgraded or improved over the LT1, so making the LT4 short block or long block into a standard LT1 would be too expensive. For example, the forged LT4 crank is stronger than the forged LT1 crank (which fails when subjected to extreme tests at LT4 power levels). The LT4 heads are Rotocast 656T6 alumimum - a stronger casting method and a stronger material itself.

Of course, there's many other differences in the long blocks as well.
Yes, I was thinking short block. Some money could be saved to pay for better stuff in all V8 Camaros by unifying the process. It would be interesting to see the cost difference verus the two builds. And of course suppliers would have to keep up. It is probably not practical. I was not aware of the thrust bearing problem on big builds. But yea Chevy if you act on this crazy LOL idea fix that bearing too.

I wonder if the LT4 short block is heavier?
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Old 07-21-2021, 07:32 PM   #6
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Clevite LSx bearings are suppose to fit with "minor work to the block". That scared me away but I have plenty time how to work on it.
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5649-t...-assembly.aspx

The Lt4 crank's 7/8 rod journal is solid (not drilled) as testing showed the LT1 crank to weak under boost at that location.

This looks like a standard thrust bearing to me:
https://www.lsxceleration.com/king-x...oil-clearance/

I don't remember off hand but I thought the cap had the cut for a full radius thurst. The real problem being is the cap can walk on the block which can cause the two thrust surfaces to be messed up. ARP studs? dunno, I studded my block, which is mandatory. Since the design was only for 1/2 radius I can see the cap side not being machined correctly, just "good enough" from the factory. I wonder if the Voodoo engine has a full radius thrust?
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