[19 2SS]

So I’ve had my whipple kit on for a little over a year and I’m on my 5th whipple tensioner pulley, with the whole tensioner assembly being replaced on this last pulley, and it just began to fail yesterday. I have no idea what to do or what could be causing this, all the other pulleys have no play or looseness to them except this one. How is it that this pulley has failed 5 times without any other pulley failing a single time? I know I’m not the only one that has had this problem multiple times but it seems like it’s a problem only some people experience with these whipple kits, what do you guys suggest I do? I wonder if whipple would pay me out for my unit because this thing has been nothing but problems from the start. I could understand if I got a good use out of it then began having problems down the line but this thing has failed me over and over again from the start and I’ve lost hope

[KingLT1]

Which tensioner pulley? The spring tensioner or slider? How close is the spring tensioner to being maxed out with the belt on? Does the pulley on the spring tensioner have a snap ring in place so it can not move towards the engine?

The Spring tensioner is a OEM LT4 unit with Whipples 10 rib pulley on the hub. So if that is constantly failing then something is amiss with tension or alignment you are not seeing.

When I first got my Whipple install finish. The tensioner pulley failed...it moved on the hub and made contact with the arm. Whipple sent me out a new unit that had a revised pulley with a snap ring in place to it couldn't move.

The next issue the slider pulley. I found that if the slotted washer on the back side is not installed correctly, then the belt has to be damn near stretched to get on and the spring tensioner is maxed out. If you flip that around it should allow the pulley to move a little more to the left looking at the engine.

Once you do that then the factory supplied belt will just slip on with a 3.5 pulley and the spring tensioner is about 75-80% from being bottomed out.

I haven't had a belt or tensioner issue since figuring that out 4yrs and 11k miles later.

[19 2SS]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Which tensioner pulley? The spring tensioner or slider? How close is the spring tensioner to being maxed out with the belt on? Does the pulley on the spring tensioner have a snap ring in place so it can not move towards the engine?

The Spring tensioner is a OEM LT4 unit with Whipples 10 rib pulley on the hub. So if that is constantly failing then something is amiss with tension or alignment you are not seeing.

When I first got my Whipple install finish. The tensioner pulley failed...it moved on the hub and made contact with the arm. Whipple sent me out a new unit that had a revised pulley with a snap ring in place to it couldn't move.

The next issue the slider pulley. I found that if the slotted washer on the back side is not installed correctly, then the belt has to be damn near stretched to get on and the spring tensioner is maxed out. If you flip that around it should allow the pulley to move a little more to the left looking at the engine.

Once you do that then the factory supplied belt will just slip on with a 3.5 pulley and the spring tensioner is about 75-80% from being bottomed out.

I haven't had a belt or tensioner issue since figuring that out 4yrs and 11k miles later.

I’m going to take the slider pulley off right now to see if the washer is on wrong, because it’s nearly impossible to get my belt on when I replace the pulley. The one that is failing is the smooth pulley on the tensioner, the one that you use to loosen the belt

[19 2SS]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Which tensioner pulley? The spring tensioner or slider? How close is the spring tensioner to being maxed out with the belt on? Does the pulley on the spring tensioner have a snap ring in place so it can not move towards the engine?

The Spring tensioner is a OEM LT4 unit with Whipples 10 rib pulley on the hub. So if that is constantly failing then something is amiss with tension or alignment you are not seeing.

When I first got my Whipple install finish. The tensioner pulley failed...it moved on the hub and made contact with the arm. Whipple sent me out a new unit that had a revised pulley with a snap ring in place to it couldn't move.

The next issue the slider pulley. I found that if the slotted washer on the back side is not installed correctly, then the belt has to be damn near stretched to get on and the spring tensioner is maxed out. If you flip that around it should allow the pulley to move a little more to the left looking at the engine.

Once you do that then the factory supplied belt will just slip on with a 3.5 pulley and the spring tensioner is about 75-80% from being bottomed out.

I haven't had a belt or tensioner issue since figuring that out 4yrs and 11k miles later.

So for the other smooth pulley with the ~1 inch long washer, is it supposed to be put in through the front, towards the engine? Or through the back towards my bumper? Currently it was through the back towards my bumper

[ZO6Ted]

I've seen your other posts and my heart goes out to you sir. While my DD work truck 2.9 is a diffferent animal it has been on for 7 yrs as of last month with no issues other than a leaking bypass 3 yrs ago. Not even a belt but I just saw a tiny crack so it's due now. I do not believe it is the tensioner at all. Sometimes the person in the middle of a problem can't see the obvious and I mean no disrespect. Imho it has to be something driven by the belt that is causing this.

I'm an HVAC guy (48 yrs now) and I've seen failures many times due to bearings and misalignment although sometimes it just breaks or shreds the belt. I just looked at my belt and it comes off the crank to the tensioner then to an idler then to the alternator then to another idler. Of course Whipple, ps ac and water pump too I guess.

Is it the spring on the tensioner or the bearing on the tensioner pulley? I believe something is causing a harmonic or strain on the tensioner that is causing the repeated problem. If you haven't already check the bearings on every single item driven by the belt. Use a heat gun when everything is warm to check bearings as best you can as well as spinning everything by hand and checking for any play whatsoever with the belt off.

When you can move a bearing any whatsoever from side to side like 12 to 6 o'clock and 3 to 9 o'clock if you feel anything even a tiny bump, bump, that bearing is bad and will heat up when ran for a few minutes. Also the mount on the front of the engine from Whipple could just be improperly machined causing alignment issues. Hope this gives you some ideas but in no way do I believe it is the tensioner with this many failures. Best of luck sir. Ted

[19 2SS]

Originally Posted by ZO6Ted

I've seen your other posts and my heart goes out to you sir. While my DD work truck 2.9 is a diffferent animal it has been on for 7 yrs as of last month with no issues other than a leaking bypass 3 yrs ago. Not even a belt but I just saw a tiny crack so it's due now. I do not believe it is the tensioner at all. Sometimes the person in the middle of a problem can't see the obvious and I mean no disrespect. Imho it has to be something driven by the belt that is causing this.

I'm an HVAC guy (48 yrs now) and I've seen failures many times due to bearings and misalignment although sometimes it just breaks or shreds the belt. I just looked at my belt and it comes off the crank to the tensioner then to an idler then to the alternator then to another idler. Of course Whipple, ps ac and water pump too I guess.

Is it the spring on the tensioner or the bearing on the tensioner pulley? I believe something is causing a harmonic or strain on the tensioner that is causing the repeated problem. If you haven't already check the bearings on every single item driven by the belt. Use a heat gun when everything is warm to check bearings as best you can as well as spinning everything by hand and checking for any play whatsoever with the belt off.

When you can move a bearing any whatsoever from side to side like 12 to 6 o'clock and 3 to 9 o'clock if you feel anything even a tiny bump, bump, that bearing is bad and will heat up when ran for a few minutes. Also the mount on the front of the engine from Whipple could just be improperly machined causing alignment issues. Hope this gives you some ideas but in no way do I believe it is the tensioner with this many failures. Best of luck sir. Ted

So it’s the bearing inside the tensioner pulley that becomes super loose, and there is scratched metal on the back end of the pulley but I think that only happens after it becomes loose, I don’t think that scraped metal spot has to do with the actual problem

[ZO6Ted]

That scratch is still possibly suspect. What King said above is definitely food for thought washers, clearances and all. If not though do what I suggested with the belt off and again with a heat gun while warm. I HOPE these tensioners have not had Chinese bearings. If so...

[19 2SS]

Whipple is sending me a new tensioner assembly, all new idlers and hardware and a belt so I’m gonna be taking everything off tomorrow when it gets here

[ZO6Ted]

Wish you could use a heat gun before and after for the info. Pray about it brother. Not kidding!

[19 2SS]

Originally Posted by ZO6Ted

Wish you could use a heat gun before and after for the info. Pray about it brother. Not kidding!

I’ll definitely check the other pulleys a little more but I’ve spun them all by hand and they all feel smooth to me, except the one that has been failing obviously

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by 19 2SS

So it’s the bearing inside the tensioner pulley that becomes super loose, and there is scratched metal on the back end of the pulley but I think that only happens after it becomes loose, I don’t think that scraped metal spot has to do with the actual problem

There needs to be a snap ring in front of the bearing on the tensioner pulley or it moves backwards and makes contact with the tensioner arm. Same problem I had...and it will keep happening. I would call them and make sure you get that revised pulley.

Here is pics of when mine failed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZNkWeFgnbF6YEgdR6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PbhLXA85EtPT9cUK7

If u look inside the pulley there is a gap. Again There should be snap ring takes that slack up on the front so that gap isn't there...this way the pulley can not walk on the bearing and make contact with the tensioner arm.

[19 2SS]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

There needs to be a snap ring in front of the bearing on the tensioner pulley or it moves backwards and makes contact with the tensioner arm. Same problem I had...and it will keep happening. I would call them and make sure you get that revised pulley.

Here is pics of when mine failed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZNkWeFgnbF6YEgdR6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/PbhLXA85EtPT9cUK7

If u look inside the pulley there is a gap. Again There should be snap ring takes that slack up on the front so that gap isn't there...this way the pulley can not walk on the bearing and make contact with the tensioner arm.

https://ibb.co/gFbjqRZ
Looks like it does have a ring in front of the bearing

[KingLT1]

Yep that is the updated pulley. Must be a alignment or tension issue putting a lot of stress on that pulley bearing.

Far as the slide tensioner. Flip the washer 180 so the slot allows the pulley more travel to the left(inward towards the water pump) which should relieve some tension and allow the belt to go on easier.

[19 2SS]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Yep that is the updated pulley. Must be a alignment or tension issue putting a lot of stress on that pulley bearing.

Far as the slide tensioner. Flip the washer 180 so the slot allows the pulley more travel to the left(inward towards the water pump) which should relieve some tension and allow the belt to go on easier.

I haven’t messed with the slide tensioner at all, it’s the one to the right of the tensioner pulley right? I saw it’s labeled as “adjustable pulley” on the whipple installation guide, I’m not really familiar with how to adjust it though I’m not seeing much info on it