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Old 06-14-2017, 11:46 AM   #1
lcarney1977
 
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how much rwhp can the lt1 block handle?

like the title says how much rwhp can the LT1 motor handle be4 you gotta beef it up?
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Old 06-14-2017, 12:21 PM   #2
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it's a good question - I don't think there is a definitive answer that will be true in every case, but if you look at the history of LT1 in C7's and Gen 6 Camaros, you should be fairly safe at 600rwhp. I'd be starting to sweat a little at anything above.

There is one example of a youtuber guy...red racer or something (here's the thread http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...ight=red+racer), that his motor blew out on the dyno and the tuner had it under 600rwhp...just one example.

Edit - looks like he was 620rwhp at 10psi. My 1LE is going in next week for a vortech supercharger - I'm hoping for 550 at the wheels, 8 psi. should be good, but...YOU NEVER KNOW.
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Old 06-14-2017, 12:23 PM   #3
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that's disappointing...
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Old 06-14-2017, 12:31 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcarney1977 View Post
like the title says how much rwhp can the LT1 motor handle be4 you gotta beef it up?
Your title says "Block"

In which case, the fastst C7 Stingray (LT1) goes 8's with a ProCharger

As far as internals, well my personal rule would be anything above 650-700rwhp. The ring gaps inside these motors are so tight, its hard to safely make power above that without having a ring land failure.

I have made more, BUT you don't know how tights yours is.

And its a LOT easier to fix something (drop in pistons, or drop in rods/pistons) before the motor lets go.... cause after it does, you are replacing about everything.
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Old 06-14-2017, 12:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProCharger View Post
Your title says "Block"

In which case, the fastst C7 Stingray (LT1) goes 8's with a ProCharger

As far as internals, well my personal rule would be anything above 650-700rwhp. The ring gaps inside these motors are so tight, its hard to safely make power above that without having a ring land failure.

I have made more, BUT you don't know how tights yours is.

And its a LOT easier to fix something (drop in pistons, or drop in rods/pistons) before the motor lets go.... cause after it does, you are replacing about everything.
But to be clear the C7 you reference has forged internals...right? Just to be clear.

If i'm just shooting for 550-ish, then should I really consider having to drop in forged pistons / rods (I think the piston rods are already forged though..on the LT1)
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Old 06-15-2017, 02:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverTaco07 View Post
But to be clear the C7 you reference has forged internals...right? Just to be clear.

If i'm just shooting for 550-ish, then should I really consider having to drop in forged pistons / rods (I think the piston rods are already forged though..on the LT1)
My car has seen over 7000 miles over 650whp. I owned it less than a week before it got turbos. The internals are all stock. I don't daily drive it, it is a toy. When it leaves the garage I usually run it hard. No problems yet. If you stay below 700whp the stock motor should be fine.
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Old 06-15-2017, 02:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcarney1977 View Post
like the title says how much rwhp can the LT1 motor handle be4 you gotta beef it up?
What do you mean by block? Stock block with stock internals? Stock block with forged internals? Short block? long block? I dont think this question is very clear and is why you dont have a clear answer.
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Old 06-15-2017, 02:59 PM   #8
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Question was vague but the answers covered it either way.

Stock block is good for 1000+hp with upgraded internals.

Stock short block is good for somewhere between 600 and 800 depending on who you ask.
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Old 06-15-2017, 03:43 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by jessrayo View Post
My car has seen over 7000 miles over 650whp. I owned it less than a week before it got turbos. The internals are all stock. I don't daily drive it, it is a toy. When it leaves the garage I usually run it hard. No problems yet. If you stay below 700whp the stock motor should be fine.
Nice...good to hear.
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Old 06-15-2017, 04:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
Stock short block is good for somewhere between 600 and 800 depending on who you ask.
When the LT1 engine first came out in the Corvette there were some failures related to residual metal in the oil at engine assembly,
http://www.autoblog.com/2014/09/08/c...rouble-report/
but this seems to be pretty much eliminated by the time Camaros got the engine. Occasionally a stock engine will fail. Quality control tries to prevent this but every once in a while something slips through. If you just happen to get an engine that was going to eventually have problems in the stock configuration it will definitely fail when you increase the power by 50 to 100% Problem with modding an engine is once you touch it, it will not be covered under the original warranty so if the motor frags you buy a new one.

The engines are pretty good from the factory and I think 99% of the people that go to 600whp will never have a problem but there will always be some exceptions. There are a lot of LT1 piston and piston ring failures documented around 700+whp. You can google "LT1 piston failure" and see plenty of pictures and stories. Most of them are over 700whp some are not. I'm running my car 650whp because of this. I could make more but that's where I feel I won't be buying a new engine for my SS. Now my '13 ZL1 is on its 4th engine..... They don't hold up very well over 1200+ whp and going 200mph.

Hope this answers your question
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:25 PM   #11
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The biggest issue with a piston/ring pack failure is mostly due to builder negligence. When you go from an N/A engine to FI engine, or power adder engine, is the rings need to be gapped for the usage. An N/A engine runs a tight ring gap due to the fact that the cylinder pressures are fed by what the engine can injest. When you start forcing additional oxygen into those cylinders and adding the appropriate fuel, the pressure rises accordingly. When that happens the ring ends are bound to butt up against one another. I don't think you can blame a manufacturer for gapping the rings appropriately, then the end user increases combustion pressure and the piston ends up breaking as a result.

If they're gapped appropriately and the forging itself breaks, you've obviously exceeded the structural limitations of the design. Again, not something you can blame on a manufacturer for their material choice, especially when you engine is makingjust short of 200% of the original design.
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:25 PM   #12
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Would not be surrised if the long block could handle well over 1k hp if not for the ring gap issue
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Old 06-16-2017, 06:24 PM   #13
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We are a full texas speed 416 stroker build with cam and valve train to match.

Turbos are 6266 bb turbonetics and we will have fueling for 1600whp. We're aiming for 1200-1500whp (stock sleeves)

I hope I'm not the pioneer to find the stock sleeves breaking point hahahah
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:09 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Goertz View Post
We are a full texas speed 416 stroker build with cam and valve train to match.

Turbos are 6266 bb turbonetics and we will have fueling for 1600whp. We're aiming for 1200-1500whp (stock sleeves)

I hope I'm not the pioneer to find the stock sleeves breaking point hahahah
I hope you make it to 1600. That turbo kit is coming along great.
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