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Old 03-15-2019, 06:26 AM   #1
L78toLT1
 
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Balancer Bolt Torque

Can someone help me out with the torque value when reusing your old balancer bolt? I am pretty sure I read somewhere that this bolt can be reused. If memory serves the multi-step torque plus angle process does not apply, you just torque the bolt to a prescribed value.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:18 AM   #2
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I can't recall if the kit comes with a new crank bolt. I believe it does as it's not recommended to reuse the old one but either way its 240 Ft/Lbs.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:55 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dysan911 View Post
I can't recall if the kit comes with a new crank bolt. I believe it does as it's not recommended to reuse the old one but either way its 240 Ft/Lbs.
I received a new bolt with my blower kit, but I don't think the cam kit included the bolt. I looked on Ted J's website and the parts list for the cam kit did not list a bolt.
The balancer/pulley bolts on modern vehicles are somewhat of a mystery to me. I cannot understand why they are all torqued so damn tight. Old school big/small blocks used a 3/8" bolt and they never seemed to come off. Ford always used a big ass bolt, but it was only torqued to a hundred and something ft-lbs.
I think I'll just order an ARP bolt and be done with it.
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Old 03-15-2019, 09:08 AM   #4
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I believe the Stock balancer bolt is TTY and not re-useable because the threads stretch.
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L78toLT1 View Post
I received a new bolt with my blower kit, but I don't think the cam kit included the bolt. I looked on Ted J's website and the parts list for the cam kit did not list a bolt.
The balancer/pulley bolts on modern vehicles are somewhat of a mystery to me. I cannot understand why they are all torqued so damn tight. Old school big/small blocks used a 3/8" bolt and they never seemed to come off. Ford always used a big ass bolt, but it was only torqued to a hundred and something ft-lbs.
I think I'll just order an ARP bolt and be done with it.
Due to this post I have added the ARP Crank bolt to our cam package along with the phase limiter tool.

Our kit does come with a GM bolt but I prefer you use an ARP.

It was an oversight on our part we are sending you a crank bolt no charge.

Thank you for your business.

Ted.
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Old 03-15-2019, 01:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
Due to this post I have added the ARP Crank bolt to our cam package along with the phase limiter tool.

Our kit does come with a GM bolt but I prefer you use an ARP.

It was an oversight on our part we are sending you a crank bolt no charge.

Thank you for your business.

Ted.
This is why I buy nearly all my stuff from Ted! Phenomenal service before and after the sale.
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Old 03-15-2019, 01:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING View Post
Due to this post I have added the ARP Crank bolt to our cam package along with the phase limiter tool.

Our kit does come with a GM bolt but I prefer you use an ARP.

It was an oversight on our part we are sending you a crank bolt no charge.

Thank you for your business.

Ted.
Ted, my kit did include the phase limiter tool
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Old 03-15-2019, 03:27 PM   #8
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Sounds like your making progress.
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:09 PM   #9
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the crank bolt is not designed to be used twice. obviously many people do without any issues; but that's up to you!

two different style crank bolts with different torquing procedures. see the pdf from pace performance for all torque specs.

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt – New Bolt with Flanged Head
• First Pass: 120Y (89 lb ft)
• Second Pass: Loosen 360 degrees
• Third Pass: 80Y (59 lb ft)
• Final Pass: 125 degrees

OR

Crankshaft Balancer Bolt – New Bolt with Retained Rotating Washer
• First Pass: 120Y (89 lb ft)
• Second Pass: Loosen 360 degrees
• Third Pass: 80Y (59 lb ft)
• Final Pass: 200 degrees

https://paceperformance.com/files/pd...rque-specs.pdf
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:51 AM   #10
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Thanks for the link, hitmix! All I i really need, info wise to finish up is the torque values. You saved me the $15 daily service manual rental fee!
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:57 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
Sounds like your making progress.
Yeah, slowly but surely. I managed to get the shortblock back together. Planning to dry fit the heads, check valve clearances and lifter preload if i can find a spare couple of hours today. The machine shop removed a total of .020 from the block & heads getting everything squared up. I'm pretty sure I'll be ok, but better safe than sorry.
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Old 03-19-2019, 09:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L78toLT1 View Post
Yeah, slowly but surely. I managed to get the shortblock back together. Planning to dry fit the heads, check valve clearances and lifter preload if i can find a spare couple of hours today. The machine shop removed a total of .020 from the block & heads getting everything squared up. I'm pretty sure I'll be ok, but better safe than sorry.
If that is accurate I would be looking at a 0.020 thicker than stock gasket to retain stock compression.

Of course if the pistons are the same CCs.

Ted.
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Old 03-19-2019, 10:30 AM   #13
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Did you do stock compression? If not Ted is right, that would give you a higher compression rate that might be a little to high for boosted. I did a 10.5 motor
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:07 AM   #14
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Pistons are -6cc. reduced volume in the cylinder based on 4.06 bore & .020 reduced deck height works out to -4.24cc so my CR should be right at stock. Even so, I would feel more comfortable with thicker head gaskets. Do you guys have a source for custom gaskets, or off the shelf gaskets that are around .071 (I miced the originals at .051). BTW the machine shop had to deck the block to remove a small divit at the edge of the no 2 cylinder. I have no idea how it got there. I wrapped the block in a blanket and transported it in the back seat of my truck to the machine shop.
Do you guys have a recommended source for thicker gaskets? I miced the originals at .051.
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