[Bow Tie Fanatic]

Originally Posted by MadMotorMagazine

Best thing, record shock data, email it with track info... Laptimizer or hand written notes. I'll get with our resident genius and racing engineer, and go over it, to see where things are for you. What's cool, is when you make a positive change and pick up time, confidence grows, and you push more. That can necessitate even more tweaking, because you're demanding more. For me, low speed C/R settings had most profound impact. Also, if you get a chance to try someones SS 1LE e-diff controller, especially with the GM Performance calibration, give it a go. I know swapping out BCM's with e-diff cal works on 2017's, but GM made changes on 2019's that required DSC to update firmware, so not sure if anything else is effected. All that CAN/bus stuff makes my brain hurt. I can tell you from personal experience, a 2017 ZL1 6 speed performed better on autocross with a SS 1LE e-diff controller. The '17 calibrations on ZL1 made it difficult to rotate on tight turns, and put power down, without kicking rear out. ZL1 1LE calibration is very similar to SS 1LE GM Performance calibration, differences primarily based on accounting for engine torque. I still can't get over how well the Goodyear tires work. Shoot me a message and and I'll get with you on current setup, what's its doing, and when. I've got smart people left n right of me, so one of us will have an answer.

Ok will do. Thanks very much!

[MadMotorMagazine]

Get with us on what data to select in the record feature, and practice it a few times before you go. Nothing like being belted in, and can't reach laptop when you remember to record data, lol!

[DOHCVTEC]

sucks that wifi is going away, so I guess cable will do

great info guys, thank you for joining.. big thanks to MadMotorMagazine

so the ZL1 map is based on the SS 1le? perhaps that may explain the soft settings in the comfort zone...

here is what I changed to remedy that:

Touring mode - G Comfort Parameters - default rate from 1 to 7 (% of normal calibration) ; sensitivity - went from 20 to 17 (how quickly it comes out of comfort zone); G rate max - went from 35 to 30 (3.5Gs to 3.0Gs below which the comfort mode is on)

Sport mode - default rate - went from 1 to 10; sensitivity - stayed at 15; G Rate Max stayed at 30

Track mode - default rate - went from 10 to 15, sensitivity - stayed at 15, G Rate Max - went from 30 to 25

now on the street the car is simply amazing!! comfortable, compliant, don't want to stop driving where as before (the tuning revision) I was a little annoyed after a 30 min drive...

again, this revision has nothing to do with track driving... only straight no real maneuvering driving


track impression were:
insane braking ability, better than before somehow

great corner entry

good balance mid corner (neutral)... perhaps the car has always been this way but in the last session after the DSC install it was very noticeable and confidence inspiring, and track conditions were horrible

coming out of the corner a little better than stock but there seems to be a lot of room for improvement... 2nd gear exit is still rather sketchy on the stock non-R 20" good years
**** not sure how to do deal with that yet... planning on going to at least the ZLE Spec R Good Years or something similar

Perhaps after the tire change I could use a little help with the tuning on that part

[MadMotorMagazine]

TRZO6, glad you read the novel, sorry bout not properly spacing for your reading convenience. I'll gladly refund your purchase price.

I can see my ACTIVE reference missed the mark, I should have said, "OEM controller is active, DSC Sport makes your system ACTIVE!"

The DSC Sport controller is an open-interface suspension control module with lot's of processing power, unlimited tuning capabilities, and takes a driver's approach to the way it functions. The V4 has dual processors ; )

DSC Sport utilizes more data for input, to control dampers in a way that mimics racing shocks on speed, and does what the OEM controller cannot do, or it wouldn't require replacement, we'd just retune like an ECU with software from HP Tuners.

Anyhow, that's my rational for active vs ACTIVE, just different approaches to function and performance. OK, that's about all I've got to say on that, but if you complain about my spelling or punctuation, I'm taking you off my Christmas card list!

[F1FTY]

Here's a DSC controller question:

Can I connect the controller to my laptop without it plugged into the car?

[DOHCVTEC]

yes, wifi, but the guys at DSC no longer want you to do it.

Fellas, I have an update for you, and possibly not a not a good one
I need to speak with DSC first, before I update
We shall see

[F1FTY]

Originally Posted by DOHCVTEC

yes, wifi, but the guys at DSC no longer want you to do it.

Fellas, I have an update for you, and possibly not a not a good one
I need to speak with DSC first, before I update
We shall see

In for updates!

Maybe I could reframe my question:

DSC controller on my desk. USB connected to computer. Will it work? Or must it be connected to the car too?

[Chris V]

Originally Posted by F1FTY

In for updates!

Maybe I could reframe my question:

DSC controller on my desk. USB connected to computer. Will it work? Or must it be connected to the car too?

Yes. That works.

Also curious about updates.

[F1FTY]

Originally Posted by Chris V

Yes. That works.

Also curious about updates.

Ok thank you. Been chasing a connection error.

[MadMotorMagazine]

F1FTY, I prefer to have controller out of car to update firmware. Most connection errors are due to having multiple usb ports on laptop, and not having it set to the port controller is connected to. On my laptop, I use port 3, and make sure every time I plug in, it's on that port, or I'll get a connection error. There's no automatic connection to figure it out and set port for you.

[F1FTY]

Originally Posted by MadMotorMagazine

F1FTY, I prefer to have controller out of car to update firmware. Most connection errors are due to having multiple usb ports on laptop, and not having it set to the port controller is connected to. On my laptop, I use port 3, and make sure every time I plug in, it's on that port, or I'll get a connection error. There's no automatic connection to figure it out and set port for you.

Thank you, that's very helpful.

I'm running into this issue with the laptop...the driver installs correctly and the port on the driver matches the port in the Tuner software, yet I cannot get a connection on any of the USB ports.

I guess I need to look up what the port number is for one of the USB ports and change the driver and Tuner software?

Note: I'm doing this just to double-check that my firmware version is the latest for the Camaro. I have the V4 controller but the latest map listed on DSC's site says V3 so i'm curious about that too.

[MadMotorMagazine]

Chris V, Camaro V4 firmware update is so controller will work on new models of Camaro. Isn't necessary for the V3, or a V4 that's already installed and working on a 2018.

[MadMotorMagazine]

Yes, you select the port. First time I messed with a connection error, I switched usb ports until I found the one that worked, and done. Sometimes people get lucky, plug in and it works, the n next time use a different usb and nothing... not realizing you set the port number and it stays there until you change it. Then you've got to remember to plug in on that port each time.

[TRZ06]

On the V4, I would hold judgment if someone offered a free 7 day trial to test on various streets. If I was sold after 7 days, I would buy it.

But it would need to be dialed in from the get go and not something I would have to play with. I want a true plug and play and measurable damping improvements results.