Play at the top of the clutch travel?

[Stormcloak]

Howdy folks.

Car has 20k miles on it give or take, and I've noticed recently that I have excessive play at the top of the clutch pedals travel. The pedal goes down about 1/2-1" before you feel it actually starting to engage its normal travel. Fluid level is fine, the clutch itself operates fine while driving, but the pedal used to come all the way up with zero play.

Is this normal wear / tear or something given the mileage, or something else that's easily adjustable?

TIA.

[Nb1081]

Id guess its normal with a lil wear down on the friction disk it could create a lil more space between pp and tob/slave so what you feel is the fluid movement till there is contact/engagement but again this is just thought in my head so anyone please correct me if im wrong

[Matt@Tick]

Originally Posted by Stormcloak

Howdy folks.

Car has 20k miles on it give or take, and I've noticed recently that I have excessive play at the top of the clutch pedals travel. The pedal goes down about 1/2-1" before you feel it actually starting to engage its normal travel. Fluid level is fine, the clutch itself operates fine while driving, but the pedal used to come all the way up with zero play.

Is this normal wear / tear or something given the mileage, or something else that's easily adjustable?

TIA.

The throwout bearing is always touching the fingers of the pressure plate. No amount of miles will cause the bearing to not touch the fingers.

What can happen is that the fluid gets dirty and contaminated with fine clutch friction dust. This could cause the master to stick.

You could try cleaning out the system and putting new fluid in. If this doesn't help, you could have an issue with the master itself. Keep in mind that some play will be normal for a hydraulic system.

[Stormcloak]

Thanks Matt, I'll give that a try.

[IOM Bullet]

I think I have the same issue. I bought my camaro with 18k on the odometer. I think around 30k I had the same thing happen. I am at 40k now and about 3 weeks ago I had the pedal stick to the floor because of lighting up the wheels in first gear and then lighting them up in second gear, that is when the pedal stuck to the floor. I researched camaro5 about this problem. I am in the processes of doing the ranger fluid change method (I couldn't believe how black the clutch fluid was when I first did it.) about twice every week and the fluid is now a little murky but much better. I have noticed that the pedal gets stronger every time I siphon and replace the fluid. Although, like you stated, I still have about a half inch to one inch play at the top. I think it may be the pedal spring wearing, but I am no expert. When I can get the time I am going to separate the brake & clutch reservoirs and install a speed bleeder for the slave. I know this may not help but I just wanted to share.

[acammer]

Fresh fluid is a must for these clutch's hydraulic system. Pedal sticking to the floor is a classic symptom of a bad fluid (or really hot fluid). I went to a dedicated reservoir a couple years ago which makes quick flushes much easier. I also removed the factory clutch pedal "cam over" spring that holds the pedal down once it's depressed, and instead when to a simple return spring. This helps with the clutch sticking issues as well, you're not fighting that stock spring. It also greatly improves the overall feel of the clutch - it's linear instead of having that odd release characteristic it does stock.

I recently had the garbage plastic throwout bearing support melt down on my slave cylinder, so I had to replace all those parts including a billet steel support for the throwout, and a speed bleeder. If you ever have the trans off, for any reason, do both of those things! Bleeding the clutch is a snap, and the stock garbage used for that throwout bearing support is shameful and an engineered failure if I've ever seen one.

[Bow94z]

Originally Posted by acammer

Fresh fluid is a must for these clutch's hydraulic system. Pedal sticking to the floor is a classic symptom of a bad fluid (or really hot fluid). I went to a dedicated reservoir a couple years ago which makes quick flushes much easier. I also removed the factory clutch pedal "cam over" spring that holds the pedal down once it's depressed, and instead when to a simple return spring. This helps with the clutch sticking issues as well, you're not fighting that stock spring. It also greatly improves the overall feel of the clutch - it's linear instead of having that odd release characteristic it does stock.

I recently had the garbage plastic throwout bearing support melt down on my slave cylinder, so I had to replace all those parts including a billet steel support for the throwout, and a speed bleeder. If you ever have the trans off, for any reason, do both of those things! Bleeding the clutch is a snap, and the stock garbage used for that throwout bearing support is shameful and an engineered failure if I've ever seen one.

What’s it take to install remote reservoir? I think Tick has them for $50

Where did you get the new spring for clutch?

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Bow94z

What’s it take to install remote reservoir? I think Tick has them for $50

Where did you get the new spring for clutch?

The remote reservoir is a pretty easy install - I just used a couple self tappers. Make sure you put it in reach of the OE hose or you'll be fooling around with that. And have a good cap for the brake fluid reservoir - it was included in the kit I bought from Ideal Garage.

I grabbed a generic spring from Home Depot for like $3. Everbilt 562 416. That's 2.5" x 0.312" x 0.023". Hooked the back of the pedal, and grabbed a spot where the OBDII port is originally mounts (mines up under the dash cause it's always plugged in).

Lot's of guys don't run a return spring at all - I like to have it to make sure the pedal travels 100% of the way back up and keeps the transfer port on the master cylinder open so there is always an exchange of clutch fluid.

[Bow94z]

Originally Posted by acammer

The remote reservoir is a pretty easy install - I just used a couple self tappers. Make sure you put it in reach of the OE hose or you'll be fooling around with that. And have a good cap for the brake fluid reservoir - it was included in the kit I bought from Ideal Garage.

I grabbed a generic spring from Home Depot for like $3. Everbilt 562 416. That's 2.5" x 0.312" x 0.023". Hooked the back of the pedal, and grabbed a spot where the OBDII port is originally mounts (mines up under the dash cause it's always plugged in).

Lot's of guys don't run a return spring at all - I like to have it to make sure the pedal travels 100% of the way back up and keeps the transfer port on the master cylinder open so there is always an exchange of clutch fluid.

This spring?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bo...+x+0.023%22%7D

[swampcritter]

Mine does the same thing.I just had the brakes and clutch bled at the dealer after I installed the Brembo's and the SS mastercylinder.

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Bow94z

This spring?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bo...+x+0.023%22%7D

Picture looks wrong, but that could be the website. Here is the bag from the spring. And it installed.

[Bow94z]

Got it.

Anyone use this?
http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/parts/...s-v-l360091410

Shows 2010-13. Not sure if it would work on my 2015

[acammer]

Originally Posted by Bow94z

Got it.

Anyone use this?
http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/parts/...s-v-l360091410

Shows 2010-13. Not sure if it would work on my 2015

I'm pretty sure that'll work on all years. I just can't justify spending $80 on a spring!