[MeanGreen1LE]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

It would be nice to have a diagram showing how this works. Also, an index so we know what your A, B, and C marks are pointing to. But it looks to me like the the cage which hold the vane rotor got pinched and could not shift from a low output to high output mode. Is that what the solenoid does? I also see the burrs on some of the edges. Not sure what is considered passable for normal operation.

Took me a while to understand how the thing works I promise. My A,B,C marks are to show on the big picture where my macro images correspond to as well as the rub marks on the cover.

There is a check ball in the solenoid assembly that blocks oil from passing through the solenoid into the port on the oil pump. When the solenoid activates it pulls down a plunger that allows that tiny ball to drop out of its seat and allows oil through. This oil pressure actually moves the pivoting collar over to low pressure mode. It Makes enough pressure to move and compress that big spring at the bottom of the pump. When the solenoid switches off there is a tiny ink pen looking spring in the solenoid that pushes back up on the ball and blocks the oil port and allows it to return to high pressure mode.

See my build thread for a complete disassembly of factory pump and how the ports work.
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=601757&page=5

My theory is there was enough pressure especially with colder oil to move the collar over but there wasn’t enough strength in the spring to push it back especially after everything is expanding from heat.
Typically malfunctions will default to high pressure because that spring keeps pressure on the collar to keep it in high pressure mode and If the solenoid fails that little spring keeps the check ball in pace too. My situation is different.

[ctrlz]

Will give this some thought.
Meanwhile I found this post with a quick summary diagram of the two modes:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1599465727

My first idea is to setup a manual power mode for the solenoid. I think you said you had at least one other solenoid assembly around. I would rig up something that lets you switch 12V to the solenoid while the car is running. Then you can see if pressure will change when you flip the switch. You are not getting any dtc's, so the ecm must be commanding the solenoid and it is not detecting a sticky solenoid (apparently it can detect that).

This link includes the factory troubleshooting guide for the Challenger, which sounds like it would be vey similar to the GM product. I could not find anything like this in the Camaro repair guide. Scroll down to post #4.
https://www.challengertalk.com/threa.../#post-8744829

Well... I actually did find this in our repair manual. Not as detailed as the chrysler, but anyway:
Variable Flow Oil Pump Assembly
The oil pump assembly is located within the oil pan. The oil pump assembly is fastened directly to the
rear of the balancer shaft assembly and is driven by the rotation of the balance shaft spline.
The oil pump assembly possesses variable flow capability which is made possible by a shift of the
circular vane arrangement and the actuation of an oil control valve assembly guided by the ECM. The
variable flow capability of the pump optimizes oil flow to the engine components when needed. During
performance maneuvers and acceleration the oil pump operates in a steady high pressure state.
However, during steady low load touring speeds on level terrain the oil pump operates in a steady low
pressure state.
The ECM guided "on" and "off" actuation of the oil control valve assembly allows the chamber to be
pressurized which takes the switch from high to low pressure mode. The high pressure state of the
chamber compressing the spring and shifting the center of the circular vane arrangement nearer to that
of the balancer drive shaft, decreasing the difference of the volume of oil contained between each vane.
It is this small variation in volume which produces the steady low pressure flow. It is in this mode that the
pump behaves as a smaller pump.
Advantages of variable flow oil pumping modes:
The high performance steady pressure mode is where engine temperatures and friction are
reduced because the pump only delivers the oil that the engine requires.
The low load touring steady pressure mode is where the volume of oil flow is reduced to even more
efficient levels when engine requirements allow. This efficiency reduces the resistance on
reciprocating component, allowing engine revolutions with less power resulting in fuel economy
savings.


Another question:
Can you reassemble the pump without the "return" spring for high pressure mode? Then see if the vane assembly freely pivots once everything is torqued back together. If it does move, that kinda supports your pressure theory. I think it may be binding/sticking in the low pressure mode.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Well… turns out it 99% sure the katech pump was bad after all. They did send me a new pump after I showed the previous photos. I installed the new pump and finally got the thing back together again. It sat for a few days because I just was to scared to even start it again.

Today when I finally got the nerve to just do it the car pretty much started right away this time as I didn’t have the fuel injection all apart this go. Running ok not stellar but no obvious knocks or concerning sounds other than a little tick seemingly from both sides. Could be small exhaust leak. I’m getting off track oil pressure!! Cold idle was about 40psi and after warmed up it was sitting just under 30!!! Beats under 10 all day lol. Ran for over 20 minutes and never got reduced engine power.

Still have the p60dd code showing but it is listed as permanent. Hoping it will go away.

In a second issue I’m also getting coil circuit codes po351, 353,355. They are also permanent not current and I’m hoping that is still stored from a broken ground I repaired previously. It’s running lean and really lean occasionally, yet car is trying to take fuel out (-stft) most of the time. Wondering if I have a vacuum leak and or if I’m really not getting spark part of the time.

But I digress, still some issues to work out but maybe I can finally move past the oil pressure issue for good. They asked me to send the old pump back. I’ve got it boxed up but haven’t sent it yet. Kinda curious to know what was wrong with it. Frustrating that I didn’t just go with my gut and change the pump out or take the other apart when it happened the first time.

I also hope nothing was damaged from the little slivers that came off that malfunctioning pump. Most of it should have been caught by the filter or washed back into the pan when I primed.

[SSDan]

I have followed this thread but not posted yet as I had nothing to offer that you weren't already doing. I'm glad you finally got the oil pressure back to normal. I am sure you are relieved!

Good luck with ironing out the other issues and I certainly hope you can get that beast on the rode soon and have some fun!

[Katech_Mike]

Sorry you had to go through this.

I'm very anxious to get that pump back for inspection. This is the 1st pump we have had a problem with.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Originally Posted by SSDan

I have followed this thread but not posted yet as I had nothing to offer that you weren't already doing. I'm glad you finally got the oil pressure back to normal. I am sure you are relieved!

Good luck with ironing out the other issues and I certainly hope you can get that beast on the rode soon and have some fun!

Thanks I appreciate that it’s been a journey for sure.

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by Katech_Mike

Sorry you had to go through this.

I'm very anxious to get that pump back for inspection. This is the 1st pump we have had a problem with.

Man if only GM had this kind of feedback

[MeanGreen1LE]

Originally Posted by Katech_Mike

Sorry you had to go through this.

I'm very anxious to get that pump back for inspection. This is the 1st pump we have had a problem with.

I’ve had some frustration with this whole thing for sure! And while ultimately I wish I’d found this a couple tear downs ago I believe you have to be somewhat prepared for this kind of thing when you modify a car.
I’m thankful that it was not my daily as I know so many others especially younger enthusiasts who have issues like this are truly stuck.
I have more fun tools and have learned so many things I would not have learned if not for this project.

I harbor no ill will towards katech over this. Dan and yourself have been very helpful. I would and probably will buy from you again.
Again these things happen and I can tell you will get to the bottom of this and decrease the chance Of it happening again.

[MeanGreen1LE]

I adjusted exhaust for a better fit at the collectors, added a supplemental ground wire and re-torqued my intake manifold. Did a data log and actually drove on the pavement at a whole 64 mph lol. Seemed to do better wideband seemed to follow what the fuel trims were doing. Stft are still mostly negative and stay together for the most part. I’m still getting an occasional positive like 27ish spike. I’d say it happened 10 or less times in 20 minutes. I’m thinking I may have an intermittent leak with the msd one intake port because I’m not getting any misfire history when I scan for dtc that would point to bad injector or spark.

Speaking of dtc, after the run today there was zero Codes, nothing even pending So that was awesome and means oil pressure issue is over for good I think.

[ctrlz]

Glad you have oil pressure! Interested to see what katech finds. Failure analysis very important here.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Glad you have oil pressure! Interested to see what katech finds. Failure analysis very important here.

Thanks! I’m assuming a fit tolerance issue. Either their parts were slightly big, the factory pump housing had an issue. Or maybe even a tolerance stack issue that made them just to snug.
But yeah I’m curious to find out.

[2k2ss]

What wire/hose covers are those?

[MeanGreen1LE]

Originally Posted by 2k2ss

What wire/hose covers are those?

I’m not over the top impressed with how they look especially the ends. Just looking to break up the sea of black. I think they do look good for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FW...b_b_asin_title

Alex tech cable management. 25$ for 25 feet.

[travislambert]

Did you have to remove the oil pan to remove the front cover for oil pump access? I know that is the official procedure, but sometimes there are reasonable shortcuts that aren't always identified in the service documentation.