[MrKristof]

I looked through the forums to the best of my ability and couldn't find anything specific to this. I recently purchased Ferrada FR8-FR7. The front wheels are 20x10 +25 offset and the rear are 20x11 +30 offset. And just to plug this in their my front wheels are 285/35/20 which I am downsizing to 285/30/20 because its WAY to close to the bottom of the MRC bottom plate. My rear tires are 315/30/20 which fit perfect after moving the wire on the driver side.

But if you look at the pictures below my question is will I run into trouble with the rear wheels sticking out past the fenders. I will be installing Eibach .7 front and rear lowering springs soon.

From what I have found on this forum it looks like everybody keeps the wheels and tires square with the fenders.

Does the 6th Gen Camaro squat that much as to where I will run into issues with my wheels and tires sticking out so far?

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by MrKristof

I looked through the forums to the best of my ability and couldn't find anything specific to this. I recently purchased Ferrada FR8-FR7. The front wheels are 20x10 +25 offset and the rear are 20x11 +30 offset. And just to plug this in their my front wheels are 285/35/20 which I am downsizing to 285/30/20 because its WAY to close to the bottom of the MRC bottom plate. My rear tires are 315/30/20 which fit perfect after moving the wire on the driver side.

But if you look at the pictures below my question is will I run into trouble with the rear wheels sticking out past the fenders. I will be installing Eibach .7 front and rear lowering springs soon.

From what I have found on this forum it looks like everybody keeps the wheels and tires square with the fenders.

Does the 6th Gen Camaro squat that much as to where I will run into issues with my wheels and tires sticking out so far?

OK well I run a 19 x 10.5 APEX wheel with +22 offset and in order to keep the tires square with the fenders I run -2.0 degrees camber on the REAR of the car and about the same on the front of the car. With the STOCK camber settings the tires DID poke out and I did the adjustments in camber for both cosmetic and handling improvements. Since I did install camber plates on the front, I run about -3.6 degrees when I am tracking the car. MY car is lowered with the SG3 suspension as well but I have no issues EVER with tire clearance running 305 30 19 tires on all four wheels.

[MrKristof]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

OK well I run a 19 x 10.5 APEX wheel with +22 offset and in order to keep the tires square with the fenders I run -2.0 degrees camber on the REAR of the car and about the same on the front of the car. With the STOCK camber settings the tires DID poke out and I did the adjustments in camber for both cosmetic and handling improvements. Since I did install camber plates on the front, I run about -3.6 degrees when I am tracking the car. MY car is lowered with the SG3 suspension as well but I have no issues EVER with tire clearance running 305 30 19 tires on all four wheels.

That's a nice setup. I appreciate the feedback. So I should be good to go them without any issues.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by MrKristof

That's a nice setup. I appreciate the feedback. So I should be good to go them without any issues.

YES with the camber adjustments I mentioned, you should be good to go.

[MrKristof]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

YES with the camber adjustments I mentioned, you should be good to go.

And without the camber kit I probably risk having the tire rub on the fender at some point right?

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by MrKristof

And without the camber kit I probably risk having the tire rub on the fender at some point right?

NO. At even 1.5 degrees negative camber , the tires clear fine. The ONLY reason I use camber plates is to make the car handle better at the track . It takes about 15 minutes to adjust the front camber from my street settings of 2.0-2.2 negative camber to my track setting of -3.6 degrees negative camber. WITHOUT camber plates I could only get about negative 2.6 degrees. The problem is you will have excessive tire wear on the INSIDE of the tire anytime you try and run more than about -2 degrees camber on the street.

For me I run -2.0 degrees negative camber on the REAR of the car (my car maxes out at about -2.6 degrees on rear) and -2.2 degrees camber on the FRONT of the car for my normal street setting. This makes the car handling neutral (no under or oversteer to speak of). I run MS 4S tires on car and that tire even with a 300 TW rating handles VERY well and is great in inclement weather as well.

[MrKristof]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

NO. At even 1.5 degrees negative camber , the tires clear fine. The ONLY reason I use camber plates is to make the car handle better at the track . It takes about 15 minutes to adjust the front camber from my street settings of 2.0-2.2 negative camber to my track setting of -3.6 degrees negative camber. WITHOUT camber plates I could only get about negative 2.6 degrees. The problem is you will have excessive tire wear on the INSIDE of the tire anytime you try and run more than about -2 degrees camber on the street.

For me I run -2.0 degrees negative camber on the REAR of the car (my car maxes out at about -2.6 degrees on rear) and -2.2 degrees camber on the FRONT of the car for my normal street setting. This makes the car handling neutral (no under or oversteer to speak of). I run MS 4S tires on car and that tire even with a 300 TW rating handles VERY well and is great in inclement weather as well.

Awesome. I appreciate your insight.

[Msquared]

Are you tracking or autocrossing the car? Because if you aren't, then -2-deg rear camber is quite a lot. Stock 1LE rear wheels are 11" with 43mm offset and only 305/30 tires. With your proposed setup, your 11" rear wheels will sit 13mm (1/2") further outboard and you'll have 10mm more tire width (5mm extra on the outboard side). So your rear tires will sit about 3/4" further out than those of a stock SS 1LE. I don't think your tires are going to rub the fender edges, but they will poke out a bit. Whether that matters to you is more a matter of aesthetics than function, I think.

Solving that "poke" by increasing negative camber is not the proper solution: you should set your alignment the way you need it for best handling and tire life according to the ways you intend to use the car, not to address appearance issues.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Msquared

Are you tracking or autocrossing the car? Because if you aren't, then -2-deg rear camber is quite a lot. Stock 1LE rear wheels are 11" with 43mm offset and only 305/30 tires. With your proposed setup, your 11" rear wheels will sit 13mm (1/2") further outboard and you'll have 10mm more tire width (5mm extra on the outboard side). So your rear tires will sit about 3/4" further out than those of a stock SS 1LE. I don't think your tires are going to rub the fender edges, but they will poke out a bit. Whether that matters to you is more a matter of aesthetics than function, I think.

Solving that "poke" by increasing negative camber is not the proper solution: you should set your alignment the way you need it for best handling and tire life according to the ways you intend to use the car, not to address appearance issues.

-2 degrees camber on the rear and -2.2 degrees on the front are PERFECT for normal street settings . I have 14K miles on my MS 4S with approximately 8 track days and I still have roughly 60% tread left. Tire wear is even across the face of all the tires. -3.6 degrees is alot, but -2.0 degrees is NOT overly aggressive for the rear of the car. The car definitely handles better in normal street conditions with the -2 degrees rear camber VS. the -1.5 degrees typical rear camber setting. So the increased camber setting WAS NOT done to eliminate the poke of the tire BUT it DID eliminate tire poke as a by product of running more negative camber.