[GunMetalGrey]

Hi, how many heat cycles are you guys getting out of your stock GY SC3's?

I see guys saying they are getting 5 to 6 track days, and obviously that's track dependent, but what about the number of heat cycles.

[TheRealJA105]

Run them till they cord unless you like throwing money away...

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by TheRealJA105

Run them till they cord unless you like throwing money away...

So you're saying they will cord before heat cycles become an issue?

[TheRealJA105]

I don't think heat cycles effect a 200tw tire enough to notice a difference. I run my G3s till they cord and they still perform great.

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by TheRealJA105

I don't think heat cycles effect a 200tw tire enough to notice a difference. I run my G3s till they cord and they still perform great.

I agree with this guy, for once.

I am almost done with my second set (street driven, so they see more heat cycles than most track dedicated tires) and they have little fall off all the way down.

Obviously the best grip is the first 1/3 of the tread life, but they hold up very well.

[Emoto]

Maybe I am misunderstanding the question, but don't tires go through a heat cycle every time you drive on them?

[Heartbreaker]

Originally Posted by Emoto

Maybe I am misunderstanding the question, but don't tires go through a heat cycle every time you drive on them?

Not sure about the heat cycles but the more I drive on these tires the better they perform. Getting worn now and the turn in is great. Better than when new.

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by Emoto

Maybe I am misunderstanding the question, but don't tires go through a heat cycle every time you drive on them?

Yes they do, assuming you drive them more than say a mile and not just around the block.

[Norm Peterson]

Agreed . . . but I doubt that all heat cycles are created equal.


Norm

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Agreed . . . but I doubt that all heat cycles are created equal.


Norm

Haha! Good one Norm

The only consideration with G3s is how much tread is left for water evacuation. Other than that, they grip till they cord and number of heat cycles dont seem to affect them much (as stated above already). Having said that, note that any tire will be fastest when just starting a session after a warm up lap.
Eventually they will fall off a bit with more laps especially if they slide a lot. So if ya try to go for a PB do it early in a session. Then ya need to cool them down to get peak performance again. In longer races that's what called "managing tires". Ciao!

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Haha! Good one Norm

The only consideration with G3s is how much tread is left for water evacuation. Other than that, they grip till they cord and number of heat cycles dont seem to affect them much (as stated above already). Having said that, note that any tire will be fastest when just starting a session after a warm up lap.
Eventually they will fall off a bit with more laps especially if they slide a lot. So if ya try to go for a PB do it early in a session. Then ya need to cool them down to get peak performance again. In longer races that's what called "managing tires". Ciao!

On both the G3's (my two sons run on them) and the G3R's (I run on those), you'll get much more life if you 1) regularly swap them side-to-side, let's say, after one day of a two day weekend, and, 2) [more of a PITA] to flip the fronts on the rim as we wear those out [cord outer area of fronts] about twice as quick as the rears.

To what TrackClub said about water evacuation, neither tire is the best (at all) when new in standing water, so, with the sipes backwards, if you flip the fronts on the rim, they will not exactly be a good thing in the wet.

We drive to and from our "home" track [Motorsports Ranch - Cresson, TX] 90 miles one way in most cases (vs. trailering), and of course, after a bunch of driving and track heat cycles, they aren't as good at the end of their life. However, they still are good enough...

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

On both the G3's (my two sons run on them) and the G3R's (I run on those), you'll get much more life if you 1) regularly swap them side-to-side, let's say, after one day of a two day weekend, and, 2) [more of a PITA] to flip the fronts on the rim as we wear those out [cord outer area of fronts] about twice as quick as the rears.

To what TrackClub said about water evacuation, neither tire is the best (at all) when new in standing water, so, with the sipes backwards, if you flip the fronts on the rim, they will not exactly be a good thing in the wet.

We drive to and from our "home" track [Motorsports Ranch - Cresson, TX] 90 miles one way in most cases (vs. trailering), and of course, after a bunch of driving and track heat cycles, they aren't as good at the end of their life. However, they still are good enough...

Good thoughts! To add a few more of my own: if you flip the G3s on a wheel you'll have close to zero wet capability as outside shoulders which will now be on the inside offer virtually no channels even when brand new (by design, to increase grip when cornering). Also given the cost of this procedure, personally i prefer to keep the $ for a next new set.

Rotating wheels L to R is a no brainer, albeit logistically problematic, unless one has at least 1 spare wheel to facilitate a switch with. Or a shop with a lift near by.
Ive seen guys put a whole front on jack stands before, but this is way over my safety tolerance. Call me timid

NB i have experienced an absolute deluge, while on a concrete hiway and nothing bad happened. The G3s had 3 track days on them. Of course i slowed down and after a short while ended up exiting to wait it out safely. Would i like to experience the same situation with more tire wear? A definite no.

Having just checked my tires with 4 days of hard running at CW venues and quite a few miles of back and forth dd, my left front still has a middle main channel, a wee bit of an inside one left and almost none of the outside main channel. The right front is similarly worn but in a bit of a better shape (of course). Rotating them left to right would be ideal about now. The rears are much better. Would i be concerned with wet surface? No. Standing water? Likely. By tomorrow i will have 5 days on them and hope like heck it is sunny during my long trip home

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Rotating wheels L to R is a no brainer, albeit logistically problematic, unless one has at least 1 spare wheel to facilitate a switch with. Or a shop with a lift near by.
Ive seen guys put a whole front on jack stands before, but this is way over my safety tolerance. Call me timid

In the grand scheme of this hobby, a second jack isn't all that much of an expense, though perhaps problematic for working in paddock. When you lift an entire end (or side), you can lift more evenly with two jacks.




I think I just took this picture for illustration-of-concept purposes; the front being up on low ramps being the explanation for the blocks behind the same end apparently being jacked up. Picture taken at some unknown time prior to having the house re-sided and re-shingled.


Norm

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

In the grand scheme of this hobby, a second jack isn't all that much of an expense, though perhaps problematic for working in paddock. When you lift an entire end (or side), you can lift more evenly with two jacks.




I think I just took this picture for illustration-of-concept purposes; the front being up on low ramps being the explanation for the blocks behind the same end apparently being jacked up. Picture taken at some unknown time prior to having the house re-sided and re-shingled.


Norm

Damn perfect! And given that many folks carry a jack, borrowing a second one from a track friend should not be an issue. Problem solved! Thank you Norm!