[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by radz28

So - I've been thinking about why Mike's car (Z06) was putting down 700-plus to the tires. I know he had a 103, probably the snout, a safer tune, and the GMPP CAI (plus what seemed like a larger inlet pipe). What would be the disparity between what Sienar' got and what Mike put down? Mike's car put down less (stock), and gained a whole lot more. He started with 545 and ended with about 700 @ about 6500 RPMs. Sienar' started at 580 and ended at 640. Is most of that in the canned tune, or was it due to a better inlet-side (i.e. 103, bigger snout, GMPP CAI)? Where Sienar' ended is probably going to be more than what I need (but who can't use more power?!), but I'm just curious where a lot of that disparity came from, if there are any ideas.

I know an RF will free-up probably 20, and maybe cleaning-up the tune about the same on top of that, but am I even close? Mike's car just got me stuck on that power, so, no, that's what I would like to get, HAHAHA.

simple LT4 VS LT1

[AMOR]

Does anyone track (road course) ZL1 with a TVS2650R Magnum supercharger upgrade? How does it handle heat soak as compared to stock LT4 blower?

[LT1ornothing]

Originally Posted by AMOR

Does anyone track (road course) ZL1 with a TVS2650R Magnum supercharger upgrade? How does it handle heat soak as compared to stock LT4 blower?

I don't track this set up, but everyone who runs it and has posted on this forum or a related Facebook group claims that is stays nice and cool (IAT's included) both on road courses and dragstrips. Feel free to read up and confirm from other members that have been doing so for years now.

[laynlo15]

I ran the 2650 on my 16 SS when I worked for Magnuson. It was 25 or so degrees cooler then my 2300. The intercooler bricks are huge in the 2650 compared to the 2300 or an Lt4. You'll be happy with the IAT's at the track and on the street.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by AMOR

Does anyone track (road course) ZL1 with a TVS2650R Magnum supercharger upgrade? How does it handle heat soak as compared to stock LT4 blower?

It does an amazing job, we built a 19 ZLE at 830 RWHP and it sets track records everywhere he goes with no heating issues.

Ted.

[AMOR]

Thanks for the feedback! I was under impression that bigger blower will generate more heat. I’m looking to add some power while keeping exhaust and intake stock (do not like it any louder than factory stock). TBH i’m pretty happy with my ZLE in it’s stock form apart from the heat soak issue. On track after about 10-15 min of pedal to the floor driving it gets so hot that I feel like 80-100 hp are missing, car is lacking top end and unwilling to accelerate past 120 mph in 5-6 gear. This does not happen when it’s nice and cool. Do you think the 2650R will not have this issue?

[Schlok]

I'll have some dyno numbers in the next week or so, I did a 2650, 103 TB, RF BG CAI, 2" catted ARH full long system into stock mufflers and a JMS booster. Car dyno'ed 540/570 WHP with only about 300 miles on the odometer

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by AMOR

Thanks for the feedback! I was under impression that bigger blower will generate more heat. I’m looking to add some power while keeping exhaust and intake stock (do not like it any louder than factory stock). TBH i’m pretty happy with my ZLE in it’s stock form apart from the heat soak issue. On track after about 10-15 min of pedal to the floor driving it gets so hot that I feel like 80-100 hp are missing, car is lacking top end and unwilling to accelerate past 120 mph in 5-6 gear. This does not happen when it’s nice and cool. Do you think the 2650R will not have this issue?

Quite the opposite, bigger blower turning slower = less heat generated.

Also keep in mind the Calibration and fuel you burn plays a huge role in heat production.

In your case I would say your intercooler is full of air we see this on every car that comes through the shop.

You need this fitting and an old soda bottle and short piece of heater hose to make a bleeder bottle. https://jannettyracing.com/products/...016-2019-cts-v

See our facebook videos we have on on the cars on the dyno quite often talking about it.

[radz28]

TravisLambert, a Member here, did just that (among some other mods' before jumping ship and letting all the smoke out with a Katech build). He dyno'd something a little more than 700-WHP, through manifolds and OEM, but no cats', if I recall.

If I recall - his testing (with the Maggie 2650) yielded no appreciable improvement in blower cooling with upgraded HE (I don't recall the sequence he replaced the HE and 2650 - I think the HE was upgraded before the 2650, but was told it wasn't going to do too much because the OEM was already adequate, and passed enough air to do the job well), more-or-less. He did have an upgraded HE, no surge tank, upgraded radiator (also said he was told, and he found, had little to no improvement at the track), BUT REPLACED THE BLOWER CIRCUIT AUX HE WITH AN C&R ENGINE OIL COOLER. Adding the upgraded HE, it sounds, like made-up for the loss of the aux' HE for the blower (and he confirmed pretty much identical MATs around the course), but he lowered his engine oil temps with the new oil cooler by like 50*, which is what he was trying to achieve. I think, for this part of his build, he was considering eliminating the OEM oil cooler at the radiator so he wouldn't have that, perhaps, just separating coolant and oil heat exchanging better. I don't know if he ever got around to that before the Katech motor... All that to say that he got a lot higher oil temps after more power from the 2650, so you might keep that in mind. If I recall - he was also still on either 91 or 93, too - not E' or anything.

So yes. He pounded that car with the 2650 (which he essentially upgraded the suspension to ZLE status [before the Katech engine] minus aero') and got oil temps under control (after the oil cooler and all that above), while everything else remained pretty happy from the factory. So, it seems, the direction you're going has been done at least once, with a good deal of success. It sounds like upgrading the radiator might not be necessary, but you might have to watch engine oil temps. He's an M6, so if you have an A10, you might watch that temp, too.