[Macaro]

Hello,

I need to replace the front wheel bearings on my ZL1 1LE. I've got three quick questions for those of you out there much more capable than I am...(I have a buddy who diagnosed the issue and will be doing the swap...)

1.) Looks like the front wheel bearing is part of the Hub & Bearing Assembly, which is GM Part number 13512895. Is that right for the ZL1 1LE?

2.) Anyone know the part number for the three bolts that hold this on?

3.) And, anyone know the torque setting one would use on those three bolts?

Thank you for any comments you can share...

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by Macaro

3.) And, anyone know the torque setting one would use on those three bolts?

Can't help you with the first two questions, but the torque is:

• FIRST PASS: 74 lb-ft
• FINAL PASS: 15-30 degrees.

[Alpha1BC]

Out of curiosity, how was the wheel bearing issue diagnosed? Wheel bearings on these cars are pretty beefy and shouldn't have any issues unless they are severely loaded by something like hitting potholes or driving fast on rough roads.

1) Yes, 13512895 is the PN for all Camaro front hubs. It's common for all of them, including the ZL1 1LE. When installing, make sure you coat the bore on the knuckle with anti-seize/grease.

2) Bolt PN is 11547043, but they only need to be replaced if damaged. Yes, they are a torque + angle spec as Matt pointed out above, but that isn't the same as a torque to yield spec which these bolts are not. Torque + angle is used because of the threadlocker. Threadlocker causes friction in the threads that results in a lower clamp force for an applied bolt torque, so torque + angle is used to be a bit more precise for reaching the correct clamp force on the bolt.

3) One quick add to Matt's torque spec is to make sure you re-apply blue threadlocker. Proper procedure for this is clean the bolt completely of remaining old threadlocker, apply new threadlocker to 2/3 the length of the threads, allow to sit and cure for ~10 minutes, then install on the vehicle. After installing, wipe away any excess threadlocker to ensure it doesn't end up in other moving parts.

[Macaro]

Originally Posted by Alpha1BC

Out of curiosity, how was the wheel bearing issue diagnosed? Wheel bearings on these cars are pretty beefy and shouldn't have any issues unless they are severely loaded by something like hitting potholes or driving fast on rough roads.

2) Bolt PN is 11547043, but they only need to be replaced if damaged...

First off, thank you so much for replying! Such a wealth of helpful information. Low and behold, you are RIGHT! I spent the better part of a day traveling to two Chevy dealers across the state because each only had one bearing in stock and my guy wanted to replace both together. I gave them the parts and my car and they called to say...it's not the bearing! They now think it's the rearward "link" bushing or some such thing which has some extra play. The good news is that I ended up racing the next day with it as-is and it was fine. Did another track day too and now I'm getting everything together to replace. The bad news is that I have two bearing which I paid top dollar for at the dealer which don't need to be replaced. Such is life. I'm off to find these "links" and associated bolts.

I do think we will do the left bearing anyway because at my track, the left side of the car gets a lot of load (I always cord the front left tire.)

I'll post up when it's all wrapped up and let you know how it goes.

Thank you!

[JuniEdith]

Replacing a wheel bearing that comes as an assembly with the hub and bolts to the spindle or steering knuckle is not very difficult if you have proper skills, tools and the manual. Of course, the large axle nut is very tight and can be difficult to remove.

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by Macaro

First off, thank you so much for replying! Such a wealth of helpful information. Low and behold, you are RIGHT! I spent the better part of a day traveling to two Chevy dealers across the state because each only had one bearing in stock and my guy wanted to replace both together. I gave them the parts and my car and they called to say...it's not the bearing! They now think it's the rearward "link" bushing or some such thing which has some extra play. The good news is that I ended up racing the next day with it as-is and it was fine. Did another track day too and now I'm getting everything together to replace. The bad news is that I have two bearing which I paid top dollar for at the dealer which don't need to be replaced. Such is life. I'm off to find these "links" and associated bolts.

I do think we will do the left bearing anyway because at my track, the left side of the car gets a lot of load (I always cord the front left tire.)

I'll post up when it's all wrapped up and let you know how it goes.

Thank you!

No problem, happy to be of some help! What symptoms is the car showing? I'm a bit lost as to what it could be if whoever is diagnosing it went from front wheel bearing to bushing play. Is there a noise? A ton of wheel play?

I'd check and see what the return policy is since you don't need the bearings anymore. There might be a small restocking fee, but would definitely be less than the cost of just sitting on two new ones. Either that or try selling on here, someone might scoop them up.

As for replacing the front left bearings, my 2¢ is if it's not broken don't fix it. You probably have a ton of life left in that wheel bearing even if you wear one side before the other. I'd only swap them out once they start showing signs of failing like making noise or vibrating while driving.