Car oil and coolant temp high - Page 3

FrostZ · 07-17-2021, 12:34 PM

Ah I completely mis-read that

My bad

20Bluezl1 · 07-17-2021, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrostZ

Ah I completely mis-read that

My bad

No worries any suggestion helps

FrostZ · 07-17-2021, 01:08 PM

Since you have a new thermostat on the way I'd wait till after the install as you’ll be introducing a bunch of air by popping off the T-Stat housing. First I’d make sure both the top and bottom of the main coolant reservoir are filled to their proper levels once the car is back together, then with the engine running crank the heat to allow coolant to circulate in the heater core and allow the engine to warm up to open the T-Stat. Once up to temp you can hold the engine at varying RPMs to try and purge any air out that you can and refill as necessary. There are vacuum tools you can buy or have done at a shop to get every little bit of air out but that’s what the reservoir is for over time. Hope this helps!

Blackdevil77 · 07-17-2021, 01:53 PM

Had that happen in a Pontiac G8. Problem is, these aluminum engines HATE heat. T-stat got stuck closed one time, temps spiked and the heads warped. Fixed the t-stat thinking that would do it, but the damage was already done. Car kept overheating. The overflow tank would fill with coolant, and would not go back into the cooling system when the car cooled down. Eventually the overflow tank would overflow, you’d lose coolant and the car would over heat again.

Not saying that happened here, just be mindful. Keep an eye on everything when it’s all squared away.

20Bluezl1 · 07-17-2021, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackdevil77

Had that happen in a Pontiac G8. Problem is, these aluminum engines HATE heat. T-stat got stuck closed one time, temps spiked and the heads warped. Fixed the t-stat thinking that would do it, but the damage was already done. Car kept overheating. The overflow tank would fill with coolant, and would not go back into the cooling system when the car cooled down. Eventually the overflow tank would overflow, you’d lose coolant and the car would over heat again.

Not saying that happened here, just be mindful. Keep an eye on everything when it’s all squared away.

**** me not good at all I'm crossing my fingers that it's not the case. Car only has about 7k miles

Stephen12ZL1 · 07-17-2021, 08:56 PM

swap the thermostat to a Katech unit as described above and rediagnose...the factory unit has had a few known failures. This seems to be most simple solution and likely the resolution. There shouldn't be any air in the engine cooling circuit...any air should work its way out through the natural course of events. If the thermostat isn't working properly then maybe not.

20Bluezl1 · 07-18-2021, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

swap the thermostat to a Katech unit as described above and rediagnose...the factory unit has had a few known failures. This seems to be most simple solution and likely the resolution. There shouldn't be any air in the engine cooling circuit...any air should work its way out through the natural course of events. If the thermostat isn't working properly then maybe not.

That's my plan let's see what happens, I will be on a road trip next week to the Tail of the dragon so want to make sure everything is good to go.

20Bluezl1 · 07-22-2021, 05:27 PM

So I put in the Katech 174 thermostat and put a bottle of water wetter and some distilled water. My temps are at 196⁰ parked for 15min and outside temperature 90⁰.

Do I have to change anything on my tune for a 174⁰ I had a 180 before.

20Bluezl1 · 07-22-2021, 06:02 PM

This is a 20 minute street drive with some hard long pulls. Not sure if oil temps and coolant temps are still to high. Not sure what else I can do.

Camaro1973 · 07-22-2021, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

So I put in the Katech 174 thermostat and put a bottle of water wetter and some distilled water. My temps are at 196⁰ parked for 15min and outside temperature 90⁰.

Do I have to change anything on my tune for a 174⁰ I had a 180 before.

The 174 stat will help keep the car cooler at cruise and idle compared to stock. When its fully open, its fully open though and when your on it, nothing else besides better HEAT EXCHANGE will keep it cooler.

Make sure your fans are adjusted properly. I have mine set to come on at like 39% at 180F, then like 79% @ 185F and 190F they are at 92%.

Stock those damn things dont come on till the temps are like 210.

Oil temp of 246 if your doing pulls is completely normal, it will go back down at cruise.

20Bluezl1 · 07-22-2021, 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

The 174 stat will help keep the car cooler at cruise and idle compared to stock. When its fully open, its fully open though and when your on it, nothing else besides better HEAT EXCHANGE will keep it cooler.

Make sure your fans are adjusted properly. I have mine set to come on at like 39% at 180F, then like 79% @ 185F and 190F they are at 92%.

Stock those damn things dont come on till the temps are like 210.

Oil temp of 246 if your doing pulls is completely normal, it will go back down at cruise.

Ok so where can adjust those parameters in HPTUNERS. I'm a newbie at HPTUNERS.

Camaro1973 · 07-22-2021, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

Ok so where can adjust those parameters in HPTUNERS. I'm a newbie at HPTUNERS.

Under system/ fans.

I believe right under system is the setting to change the tstat temp as well.

LiqTenExp · 07-22-2021, 07:45 PM

Click on System (looks like a blue fan)
Click on Fan Tab

Set "Mech Thermostat" to 174

Go into "Desired %" and adjust the fans so they come on sooner, I have attached mine as a reference, by no means is it the standard setting for this 174, it is what I like

Go into "Desired ECT" and adjust similar to what I have attached, again these are my settings, if someone else recommends different I'd even review it and see how it compares. The RPM zones are defined near the "Mech Thermostat" setting, torque are slightly to the left.

I run 180-195°F ECT with this during normal driving, it will rise to 200-215 on a big pull but come back down to 190 or less in under 45s at highway speed.

20Bluezl1 · 07-22-2021, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LiqTenExp

Click on System (looks like a blue fan)
Click on Fan Tab

Set "Mech Thermostat" to 174

Go into "Desired %" and adjust the fans so they come on sooner, I have attached mine as a reference, by no means is it the standard setting for this 174, it is what I like

Go into "Desired ECT" and adjust similar to what I have attached, again these are my settings, if someone else recommends different I'd even review it and see how it compares. The RPM zones are defined near the "Mech Thermostat" setting, torque are slightly to the left.

I run 180-195°F ECT with this during normal driving, it will rise to 200-215 on a big pull but come back down to 190 or less in under 45s at highway speed.

Thank you I will give this a shot tomorrow.

07-17-2021, 12:34 PM	#29
FrostZ Drives: 2019 A10 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 135 View My Garage	Ah I completely mis-read that My bad __________________ Morimoto Headlights, AWE Touring Catback, MM Catch Can, ADM V2 Reservoir, Roto-Fab, C&R Oil Cooler, 1LE Grills

07-17-2021, 01:08 PM	#31
FrostZ Drives: 2019 A10 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 135 View My Garage	Since you have a new thermostat on the way I'd wait till after the install as you’ll be introducing a bunch of air by popping off the T-Stat housing. First I’d make sure both the top and bottom of the main coolant reservoir are filled to their proper levels once the car is back together, then with the engine running crank the heat to allow coolant to circulate in the heater core and allow the engine to warm up to open the T-Stat. Once up to temp you can hold the engine at varying RPMs to try and purge any air out that you can and refill as necessary. There are vacuum tools you can buy or have done at a shop to get every little bit of air out but that’s what the reservoir is for over time. Hope this helps! __________________ Morimoto Headlights, AWE Touring Catback, MM Catch Can, ADM V2 Reservoir, Roto-Fab, C&R Oil Cooler, 1LE Grills

07-17-2021, 08:56 PM	#34
Stephen12ZL1 Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mechanicsville, VA Posts: 6,808	swap the thermostat to a Katech unit as described above and rediagnose...the factory unit has had a few known failures. This seems to be most simple solution and likely the resolution. There shouldn't be any air in the engine cooling circuit...any air should work its way out through the natural course of events. If the thermostat isn't working properly then maybe not. __________________ '21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60' '17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)

07-22-2021, 05:27 PM	#36
20Bluezl1 Drives: 2020 Zl1 A10 Riverside Blue Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: NJ Posts: 1,219	So I put in the Katech 174 thermostat and put a bottle of water wetter and some distilled water. My temps are at 196⁰ parked for 15min and outside temperature 90⁰. Do I have to change anything on my tune for a 174⁰ I had a 180 before. Attached Images

07-22-2021, 06:02 PM	#37
20Bluezl1 Drives: 2020 Zl1 A10 Riverside Blue Join Date: Mar 2020 Location: NJ Posts: 1,219	This is a 20 minute street drive with some hard long pulls. Not sure if oil temps and coolant temps are still to high. Not sure what else I can do. Attached Images

07-17-2021, 01:53 PM	#32
Blackdevil77 Drives: 2008 Pontiac G8 GT, Shelby GT500 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Long Island, New York Posts: 1,376	Had that happen in a Pontiac G8. Problem is, these aluminum engines HATE heat. T-stat got stuck closed one time, temps spiked and the heads warped. Fixed the t-stat thinking that would do it, but the damage was already done. Car kept overheating. The overflow tank would fill with coolant, and would not go back into the cooling system when the car cooled down. Eventually the overflow tank would overflow, you’d lose coolant and the car would over heat again. Not saying that happened here, just be mindful. Keep an eye on everything when it’s all squared away.

07-22-2021, 07:45 PM	#41
LiqTenExp Drives: 2017 ZL1 Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: NJ Posts: 905	Click on System (looks like a blue fan) Click on Fan Tab Set "Mech Thermostat" to 174 Go into "Desired %" and adjust the fans so they come on sooner, I have attached mine as a reference, by no means is it the standard setting for this 174, it is what I like Go into "Desired ECT" and adjust similar to what I have attached, again these are my settings, if someone else recommends different I'd even review it and see how it compares. The RPM zones are defined near the "Mech Thermostat" setting, torque are slightly to the left. I run 180-195°F ECT with this during normal driving, it will rise to 200-215 on a big pull but come back down to 190 or less in under 45s at highway speed. Attached Images __________________ 2017 Camaro ZL1 Coupe M6 (847whp Dynojet on 93) Last edited by LiqTenExp; 07-22-2021 at 08:04 PM.

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