[amcvay1979]

Hello, I have a 17 2SS Convertible and the goal is to build it up to be a Hellcat/ZL1 killer in sheep's clothing. Totally Stealth but a bolt on Supercharger and whatever else is required to bump up the power a bit more than 580 ish, etc. What other parts are required?

I'm planning on either this winter or next spring build. I'm leaning towards the Magnusson 2650, and probably 1 7/8th headers with green cats, tune, intake, etc. I want it to be simple, reliable and safe without going crazy on fueling upgrades, etc. If it's required then I'll do it.

But is 650 to the wheels possible with just a Super Charger, intake, headers, tune?

Thanks all

[Puddin]

Not without meth or the bare minimum of the Lt4 fuel system

[KingLT1]

You need a fuel system upgrade and then you still be at the limits of 93 octane.

I run LT4 injectors, LPE DI pump, LT4 low side with JMS booster. I feed it E50 which gives me plenty of octane and keeps fuel system happy. In the late spring/summer when it makes 9-10psi it can handle E60, in the fall/ early winter when it hits 11-12psi, the fuel system can keep up on E50.

So it depends on what you want to do.

Some fuel these engines with Meth which is probably ok if you pay attention to the system all the time.

If you want to run full E you will likely need
FIC +30, LPE pump, and low side. Or go port injection.

Or you can run race gas at 10.00 per gallon.

But if you want to stick with pump gas then you will need a cam to bleed off some compression. And at that point you might as well consider rods/pistons.

Or sell and get a ZL1.

Lots of options here...just have to decide what you want to do.

[LT1ornothing]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

You need a fuel system upgrade and then you still be at the limits of 93 octane.

I run LT4 injectors, LPE DI pump, LT4 low side with JMS booster. I feed it E50 which gives me plenty of octane and keeps fuel system happy. In the late spring/summer when it makes 9-10psi it can handle E60, in the fall/ early winter when it hits 11-12psi, the fuel system can keep up on E50.

So it depends on what you want to do.

Some fuel these engines with Meth which is probably ok if you pay attention to the system all the time.

If you want to run full E you will likely need
FIC +30, LPE pump, and low side. Or go port injection.

Or you can run race gas at 10.00 per gallon.

But if you want to stick with pump gas then you will need a cam to bleed off some compression. And at that point you might as well consider rods/pistons.

Or sell and get a ZL1.

Lots of options here...just have to decide what you want to do.

100% accurate

[Choda]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

You need a fuel system upgrade and then you still be at the limits of 93 octane.

I run LT4 injectors, LPE DI pump, LT4 low side with JMS booster. I feed it E50 which gives me plenty of octane and keeps fuel system happy. In the late spring/summer when it makes 9-10psi it can handle E60, in the fall/ early winter when it hits 11-12psi, the fuel system can keep up on E50.

So it depends on what you want to do.

Some fuel these engines with Meth which is probably ok if you pay attention to the system all the time.

If you want to run full E you will likely need
FIC +30, LPE pump, and low side. Or go port injection.

Or you can run race gas at 10.00 per gallon.

But if you want to stick with pump gas then you will need a cam to bleed off some compression. And at that point you might as well consider rods/pistons.

Or sell and get a ZL1.

Lots of options here...just have to decide what you want to do.

nailed it

[Jhunsberger]

Consider the info below. I regret messing with the exhaust, so if you can just swap in green cats with stock headers and exhaust, I would recommend that, not worth the $. Also there wasnt much gain with the TB and big gulp so a standard Rotofab and maybe stock TB would do or a ported or 95mm. But you absolutely have to do the LT4 fuel system. Also note my upper pulley size which is smaller than stock supplied from Whipple, I generally see around 9.5-11 lbs of boost depending on the weather. I would def lean towards the 2650 because of the better cooling.


2017 Camaro SS M6

(rwhp/rwtq)
OS = Over Stock
OP = Over Previous Setup

Complete Street Performance / Dynojet

Stock
417/428

Stock Tuned
429/440
+12/12 OS

Whipple 3.50 pulley, LT4 HPFP, LT4 Injectors, RotoFab Dry, Stock exhaust w/ Cats
597/591
+180/163 OS
+168/151 OP (stock tuned)

Previous Plus: NEP Cat Delete Pipes (primary & Secondary)
620/595
+203/167 OS
+23/4 OP

Previous Plus: Borla Atak, Borla Resonator, Kooks 2” LTH, NW 103 TB, RotoFab Big Gulp, Granatelli Plug Wires, Gforce AL DS, DSS Axles
654/618
+237/190 OS
+34/23 OP

***This step was very costly and yield little results for the $ spent***

Retuned by EFX/Mustang Dyno
688/632

[amcvay1979]

Originally Posted by Jhunsberger

Consider the info below. I regret messing with the exhaust, so if you can just swap in green cats with stock headers and exhaust, I would recommend that, not worth the $. Also there wasnt much gain with the TB and big gulp so a standard Rotofab and maybe stock TB would do or a ported or 95mm. But you absolutely have to do the LT4 fuel system. Also note my upper pulley size which is smaller than stock supplied from Whipple, I generally see around 9.5-11 lbs of boost depending on the weather. I would def lean towards the 2650 because of the better cooling.


2017 Camaro SS M6

(rwhp/rwtq)
OS = Over Stock
OP = Over Previous Setup

Complete Street Performance / Dynojet

Stock
417/428

Stock Tuned
429/440
+12/12 OS

Whipple 3.50 pulley, LT4 HPFP, LT4 Injectors, RotoFab Dry, Stock exhaust w/ Cats
597/591
+180/163 OS
+168/151 OP (stock tuned)

Previous Plus: NEP Cat Delete Pipes (primary & Secondary)
620/595
+203/167 OS
+23/4 OP

Previous Plus: Borla Atak, Borla Resonator, Kooks 2” LTH, NW 103 TB, RotoFab Big Gulp, Granatelli Plug Wires, Gforce AL DS, DSS Axles
654/618
+237/190 OS
+34/23 OP

***This step was very costly and yield little results for the $ spent***

Retuned by EFX/Mustang Dyno
688/632

Thanks for this! This is very helpful. So at the very least the HPFP and Injectors from the LT4 is minimum necessary to get over the 600 hp plateau it seems? Sounds like green cats may be the major restriction as well. I didn't really want to get the exhaust crazy loud anyway so that may be a good compromise.

Thank you!

[amcvay1979]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

You need a fuel system upgrade and then you still be at the limits of 93 octane.

I run LT4 injectors, LPE DI pump, LT4 low side with JMS booster. I feed it E50 which gives me plenty of octane and keeps fuel system happy. In the late spring/summer when it makes 9-10psi it can handle E60, in the fall/ early winter when it hits 11-12psi, the fuel system can keep up on E50.

So it depends on what you want to do.

Some fuel these engines with Meth which is probably ok if you pay attention to the system all the time.

If you want to run full E you will likely need
FIC +30, LPE pump, and low side. Or go port injection.

Or you can run race gas at 10.00 per gallon.

But if you want to stick with pump gas then you will need a cam to bleed off some compression. And at that point you might as well consider rods/pistons.

Or sell and get a ZL1.

Lots of options here...just have to decide what you want to do.

Good info, thank you! So the LT4 fuel system, is that just the HPFP and injectors or do you need to do the Low side as well for 650hp?

Thanks for the info!

[amcvay1979]

Appreciate the responses so far, it's plain to see I'll have to dig into the fuel system if I want to get over 600 hp, which is fine. I should have also mentioned, I have ready access to e15/e30/e85 as well as 93 octane fuel. Living in Iowa finally has one perk...ready access to corn alcohol!

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by amcvay1979

Good info, thank you! So the LT4 fuel system, is that just the HPFP and injectors or do you need to do the Low side as well for 650hp?

Thanks for the info!

Low side pump needed too, and with a convertible, there are small differences from a coupe. There was a thread on that subject, think the handle for that user was 'Drsagacity'?

[EDFHOBBIES]

LOWER THE COMPRESSION!!!!! so you can go further on 93 octane.. while its true more compression makes more power the fuel systems to make big power are expensive for our DI engines.. 9.8 to 10.1:1 would go along ways!

If that's all the power you want and it sounds like you have a SC all ready instead of wasting 7000k for a 2650 do some lower compression pistons, cometic thicker head gaskets, and lt4 fuel parts you will make more power more reliably and it will be the same money or less than a maggi. While the motor is out do a cam and take care of the pesky oem crank seal by switching to the LS3 seal if your trying to stay stealthy LPE and Janetty offer a cam with no chop (if your tuner is good) this will give you some more room on the fuel system and you can increase the fuel lobe as well to 38%

Here some insight on ss vs zl1

Wife has the SS with an edelbrock SC and LT4 fuel parts last mustang dyno read 613 hp 666 tq she ate my lunch while my zl1 was stock I had a slight edge off the line with better traction from the TQ management but on the hwy she pulled me. Once I did a lower pulley 9.17 LPE, Headers, and Modified the stock air box w green filter I had the edge. Now she has to tell everyone I had to mod my car to be faster LOL! Now that I have port injection she is faster than me off the line again lol but on the roll it not even a race!

Point being the mods I did on my zl1 are probably 99% of the cars running around out there! I proved you can do the Zl1 mods your self (pulley, headers, intake) for less than 2k including taking the car to a tuner. So I'm thinking you may need a bit more power!

Here is a list if you do not go the blower route!

LT4 Pump 12711668, 12694529, HPM1036 Rockauto $650 to $850
LT4 DI Injectors kit 19420801 $492.00 Scoggin dickey
DSX Aux Pump or JMS voltage booster
Katech LT4 valley cover or DOD TSP plugs
ARP Studs 234-4343
Cometic .XX thick head gaskets Talk to LPE
LS7 Lifters 12499225
LS trays 12595365
Pushrods TBA (need to measure)
GT31 lingenfelter cam
Cam Spring kit $400 to $500
Cam bolt 12681018
Hinson C7R Timing Chain or C5R $150 to $175
LS crank seal 12585673
LT4 Exh gsk 12657093
W. pump gsk 12657430
ATI damper bolt 951499
AMP Gen V lock out BTR

Shop labor 2200 to 3k