[Mr.RHOSH]

So, searching the forums, I have not ran across anyone who posted dyno numbers of the 2.0 Camaro PRIOR to any modifications.....so I have decided to do just that.

I took the car to my local performance shop with no mods. Gm says 275HP and 295 lb ft TQ @ the CRANK. We got 224HP and 240 lb ft TQ @ the WHEELS. The numbers at the crank were pretty close in line with the general 20% loss of HP and TQ from the crank to the wheels.

This is where is gets awesome when dealing with turbo cars. After some simple bolt on parts AND some minor exhaust work (oem muffler delete and installation of a bullet style muffler) BUT NO TUNE---- HP @ the WHEELS increased to 262 (+38) AND TQ @ the WHEELS increased to 280 (+40)!!!!

These numbers are from the SAME dyno in the same environment. Can't beat those numbers with a stick!!!

I have posted the chart, the red is the unmodded numbers, the pink is with the bolt ons. (Straight lines are HP, Lines with dots are TQ)

My build can be followed here and on my podcast:
RideHardorStayHome---THE PODCAST

https://www.buzzsprout.com/901552

[HCI2000SS]

Very nice. Is this a manual or auto? What gear was it dynoed in?

[Choda]

Awesome. I really like this little rippers. I'd love to get the woman a matching 4banger vert

[95TA - The Beast]

So, the cliff notes here are:

- Cold air kit
- Intercooler pipes
- NGK plugs
- "performance" coils
- PVC Oil Catch Can setup
- Muffler delete (bullet muffler is not a muffler)
- Catless downpipe
- All new fluids including coolant (why the coolant, is beyond me, but OK for maintenance)

So, easy to see the gains based on those items. Would have rather seen just the catless downpipe or that and the muffler delete and dyno. Still no idea how much is gained by anything else.

Based on the identical curves, I would imagine the catless downpipe and muffler delete to be the big gains, everything else was negligible or flat out no difference.

So, kudos to the OP for doing the stock dyno. Would have been REALLY useful with a more methodical approach to showing which mods make what difference.

But, overall you just validated what everyone knows, that a free flowing exhaust gains power. At least now we know how much can be gained and expected buy those doing those mods in the future.

The rest of the hyperbole by the manufacturers to sell products is just that, not much in gains. And for that I am referring to the cold air kit (car already has one stock, just go with a K&N drop-in for max flow), intercooler pipes, plugs/coils... Everything else was just maintenance and preventative measures.

[Mr.RHOSH]

Vehicle is an automatic....3rd gear pulls in sport mode

[Mr.RHOSH]

Thanks for reading and for the input. The coolant was changed only due to mileage. I purchased the vehicle pre-owned so the fluids(rear dif and coolant) were changed because I didn't know what the previous owner did. The transmission fluid service was done mainly due to the shudder issue in the 8 speed. I didn't experience the shudder but as stated before, I don't know what the previous owner did.
I thought about going to the dyno after each performance mod but that would have been more expensive as each dyno session cost me $100. So, I gave you guys info I still thought would be useful to the 2.0T family.

[HCI2000SS]

Definitely would make better numbers in 4th and 5th with the auto. I saw a V6 like mine with the A8 make 269 in 4th, and 277 in 5th back to back. Of course different dynos read differently, but this definitely showed a real back to back improvement

[95TA - The Beast]

Originally Posted by Mr.RHOSH

Thanks for reading and for the input. The coolant was changed only due to mileage. I purchased the vehicle pre-owned so the fluids(rear dif and coolant) were changed because I didn't know what the previous owner did. The transmission fluid service was done mainly due to the shudder issue in the 8 speed. I didn't experience the shudder but as stated before, I don't know what the previous owner did.
I thought about going to the dyno after each performance mod but that would have been more expensive as each dyno session cost me $100. So, I gave you guys info I still thought would be useful to the 2.0T family.

Sorry if it sounded somewhat off in regards to the maintenance stuff. I figure all of that should be done anyway, and I agree with you 100%, change every fluid ASAP if it is a used vehicle.

About the ONLY time I would not would be if it is under warranty. Since I have personally, on a previous different car, had a piss-poor dealer try to say I didn't use the proper rear gear fluid and that is why my diff was leaking. At only 21k miles and within 2 years of the car being built, I don't think so.

But, yeah, I get ya on the cost of dynoing. It isn't cheap. I just wish the exhaust stuff could have been illustrated for what they were powerwise.

All of the vendors (no matter how good the company) are liars when it comes to how much power you get with certain mods. I HATE THAT!!!

I mean, be honest. But then they wouldn't sell so much snake oil.

Honestly, if you question your coils, going with an aftermarket set is perfectly fine as a replacement. Same thing with the cold air kit, as in if your filter needs to be changed and if you want more turbo sound, why not go with a cold air setup. But saying that stuff, or a throttlebody or intercooler pipes gain you power is a crime.

Drop a K&N filter in the stock airbox and you will see a margin of error difference between that and a cold air setup. (And margin of error is within 5-7hp, ie, it doesn't add up and you won't notice it). Same with the rest of those other changes.

The biggest change you can do is with a tune. Be sure to tell your tuner what you have done and they should give you a tune that will REALLY wake things up and make it feel like a new car.

Personally I just got done putting a ZZP Big Wheel Turbo on my 2014 CTS4 and all I can say is it is a real difference with tune over the stock setup. I went with a Trifecta tune originally and it made a big difference in the way the car drove and felt, but this bigger turbo and a Elite tune upgrade change is way more noticeable power-wise. I also put in a K&N filter in the stock airbox.

I kept the stock exhaust and downpipe catalytic converter on my setup because the car has active sound management (which means it knows what the car sounds like an produces a negative sound-wave inside the car to make it quieter while driving).

They also made a few changes I wanted to the way the throttle feels (with their stock-setup Advantage tune it makes the car feel like a throttle controller/larger throttlebody is installed as any touching the pedal at low-throttle makes the car jump, which, honestly, I really do not like, so I had them scale it a bit more for me), and I am really happy with the setup.

Too bad there aren't any AWD dynos around here to get a few pulls with.

Oh, the warranty on mine just expired in January (it was an executive CPO warranty for 7 years/70k miles and I only have 42k on it) and I am set to redo the tranny fluid, transaxle and rear diff fluids. The front diff was swapped out under warranty when I got the car a few years ago. I have the 6-speed transmission, but will be switching to the same Mobil1 HP fluid that fixes the shudder in the 8-speeds for good measure.

I also picked up a turbo blanket, and now that I am certain everything runs the way it should that is one other thing I need to put on as well.

I just can't decide if I want the bling-bling ZZP turbo cover on top of the blanket, put the stock heatshield over the blanket, or leave the heatshield off completely. Decisions, descisions.

[Start The Machine]

I posted the stock #'s a long time ago. 220 - 225 depending on the dyno are the stock #'s at the wheels.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=565109

[BlueShadow]

Any before and after of the EGT's?

[Mr.RHOSH]

Sorry, I do not have exhaust gas temps :(

[Davescamaro]

I would agree with the trifecta tune elite. It does act smoother in mid range rpms. I thought about the big wheel upgrade, but was told I'm close to what I can push for the stock bottom end and keep it clutch friendly with the oem clutch. I will upgrade the flywheel and clutch once the old one starts acting up.

[wookwook]

hmm. the OP, The tape seems unusual to me. I just don't really see how the 38 difference got there. The free breathing stuff is precursor to the tune but not the constricting part for a oem tune. I did a whole chart on here with the deltas myself.

The modern GM stuff. The way to conceptualize it is all Torque based. It may be a bit of a mind bender, but thinkin on this for a while. Suppose you mash the gas and Scotty in the engine room says I'm giving all she's got captain. Scotty is really saying that the entire drive line is trying to produce the desired, programmed output. In simplified terms, the transmission is the driver and the engine is the horse.

I did all the incremental increases in here somewhere from a couple years ago. There is no way a DP and CAI will produce that kind of increase on its own, without adjusting the Driver commanded torque, end of story.

Charlie the horse is a member of the Horse Carriage Haulers union # 119 and with his current contract will only pull 5 kegs of beer 15 miles at 10 miles per hour. Presumably in rain, snow, mud, heat.

Now you put tennis shoes on Charlie, and he's decided to pull 5 kegs of beer 15 miles at 12 mph. The moral to the story is he cant and wont. because he has to stop and take a dump no matter what. And if he gets there early he will have to pay a fine. And no beer. Because those union leaders (EPA) are real bastards when it comes to work made and how much hay they have to feed him. And how big his turds are.

The ECU is designed to control torque vis fuel consumption, manage fuel burn and hence emissions. That is almost all there is to it. They make it really hard to push the upper limits. Unless someone increased the demanded torque tables, (re-written the union contract) there is no way you can jump almost 40 HP with some piping and filters. I'm sorry it just doesn't make sense. Or your tuner dyno guy didn't do the SAE corrections on the second pull.

Or the first and second pull no SAE corrections. That would make sense if the first day was hazy and hot then a cold front went through and now its cool and dry. SAE correction adjusts that out to a SAE day, or STD day. There's a 3rd one in there too. But the same applies. That is the only thing to explain the high delta records. Without an increase to demanded torque. Which happens though computations based on a human readable table of values.

This engine is highly sensitive to atmosphere conditions, more than most cars. That's why you might hot lap hot track nights, then everyone converges on the perfect DA nights and you only get 2 passes.

A turbo blanket is a good idea to keep the heat from building in the engine bay.

[Mr.RHOSH]

The gains are indeed the actual gains. I made sure to use the same dyno and that the environment was as close as possible to the previous on each dyno day. I also made sure that each pull was done in the same gear. I could feel the increase in power and torque after I added the bolt ons, but what I feel isn't the proper way to measure so therefore I dyno'd before and after my bolt ons. Now speaking of the ecu and torque based set-up, there are over 40 restrictions on that ecu that all "communicate" with one another. My tuner was running into issues where when hp was increased, boost was decreased and vice versa. It was really frustrating. Air and fuel is one thing, but when you throw in boost--its another world for tuning with a torque based design.