[ninetres]

Man. My local dealer was all over the map throughout the day trying plan for my “factory track alignments” settings that I am trying to schedule for Friday.

They said their hunter machine and service data base calls for only -1.5* front camber for the track specs. My manual says 2.0......and I’ve seen others members achieve -2.5+. They also said their tech instructions don’t call to replace any TTY bolts.

My service advisor mentioned “flipping the struts around” which i think he read on this forum from another member....but said that would cost ~$400. What is he even talking about???? The ZLE camber plates?? I had no idea having a Chevy dealer align the car would leave me with so many questions. The good news is he is very nice, and trying to be helpful and doing a lot of leg work trying to get me taken care of and happy.

Long story short:

If you have a BASE ZL1......please post up your final alignment specs achieved, specifically negative camber up front....and any insight about process the shop used, and bolts replaced would be a bonus. Thanks!

[shaftwhy]

I was only able to achieve -2.4 camber front. Nothing replaced, just alignment.

Manual recommendation is only -2.0 camber front and it was way too less, not even enough for back roads fun.

[mr965]

Go max camber. Prob could only get 2.2. I eventually got the camber plates so I could dial in -3.0

[RSFR]

I hit -2.8 front camber on a Hunter and -1.8 rear. That was maxed out. I have not replaced the TTY bolts and have had no issues with them after several track days, though mileage may vary. We used the factory recommended toe settings, though I don't remember what they were.

[Sooner Cole]

Track specs per manual :
Zl1 is 2.0 front, 1.5 rear.
ZL1-1LE is 2.7 front, 2.0 rear

[Stephen12ZL1]

2.0 front & 1.5 rear works fine. Get toe zeroed out front and rear.

[ninetres]

*UPDATE*

Picked the car up. Happy with the result. My OCD would have preferred the tech matching the L/R front camber.....but he said every time he tried to back the driver side off off a smidge it would be less than -2.3 so he figured I’d prefer it mis-matched with more camber. Lucky for him it’s a CW tack configuration so I’m fine with it lol. Car feels noticeably more nimble on turn in. Could be placebo effect.

The advisor also said his manager searched high and low for any reason to need to replace the rear bolts each alignment.....and couldn’t find anything. I supplied a new set today, but they said they don’t need to be replaced when going back to stock. Too bad for them I already have a fresh set for that job haha. Paid $198 even.

[Badmojo]

That should be fine and result in better track tire wear. I got them to do
FL -2.3 FR -2.4
RL -1.5 RR -1.7

It made a big difference to the factory alignment.

[Badmojo]

Originally Posted by Badmojo

That should be fine and result in better track tire wear. I got them to do
FL -2.3 FR -2.4
RL -1.5 RR -1.7

It made a big difference to the factory alignment.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[shaftwhy]

Watch out for steering wheel center possibly off if camber don't match left to right.

[ninetres]

Originally Posted by shaftwhy

Watch out for steering wheel center possibly off if camber don't match left to right.

It’s centered. Car drives straight. Even on grooved freeway.

[Exgermanowner]

So question - anyone measure up the TTY hardware and try to source ARP to get rid of it?

[TRZ06]

I was able to get -2.2 front and -1.5 rear , all with stock hardware.

Even with that setting, I can still see that the outer edge will give up before the inner edges do and this is only with street driving with some on/off ramps and back roads.

That is the beauty of how Goodyear constructed the F1 R3 tires. Even new, you can see that there is more tread on the inner edges than the outer edges to compensate for an aggressive negative camber setting.

I don't want to go camber plates, but I wish I could squeeze out -2.5 in the front.

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

I was able to get -2.2 front and -1.5 rear , all with stock hardware.

Even with that setting, I can still see that the outer edge will give up before the inner edges do and this is only with street driving with some on/off ramps and back roads.

That is the beauty of how Goodyear constructed the F1 R3 tires. Even new, you can see that there is more tread on the inner edges than the outer edges to compensate for an aggressive negative camber setting.

I don't want to go camber plates, but I wish I could squeeze out -2.5 in the front.

Curious, why don’t you want to go to camber plates?