ZZP Catch Can 2.0 Camaro

Start The Machine · 01-23-2019, 03:27 PM

ZZP has a new catch can option for the 6th gen 2.0 Camaro and ATS. The price is right, just hope its routed correctly. I can't tell from the photos on Facebook.

https://zzperformance.com/collection.../zzp-catch-can

_nadyax2 · 01-23-2019, 03:32 PM

hey how do you feel about your JacFab Recirculation Valve and PTP Turbo Blanket...would you say its worth the money?

Start The Machine · 01-23-2019, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _nadyax2

hey how do you feel about your JacFab Recirculation Valve and PTP Turbo Blanket...would you say its worth the money?

Absolutely. Love them both. I got the blanket for $200 on Black Friday. There might be some discount codes floating around for PTP to save some money.

Gutling · 01-23-2019, 05:51 PM

The pipes look similar to the mishimoto system. unplug the 2 factory lines going to air intake on the left side of the valve cover, and plug it into catch can. then run catch can to air intake.

The mishimoto has that one on the first can, and then the second can you run from the bolt you unscrew from the valve cover and replace with their special valve.

Gutling · 01-23-2019, 06:14 PM

^ So you dont think the zzp one would be very useful by itself since its the ccv side? With my mish cans (I have both) they are pretty much even when I go to empty them out. Honestly couldnt tell more oil in one over the other

irobles3680 · 01-23-2019, 08:49 PM

I think most people got the mishimoto ones already but definitely would like to see how the 2 compare

Thandel · 01-24-2019, 06:01 AM

Here is the zzp catch can with a different name https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Alumi...rd!07044!US!-1

I tried this can not bad baffling on the mishy is better but they fill too quickly in colder climates. Too small in my opinion. I have yet to find a can at a reasonable price that has the size and baffling that works well. I’m in the process of making my own baffling system for a larger eBay can. I also made a valve like the mishi one that is made of aluminum though still perfecting it

I ended up finding a valve cover so I can cut it apart and adapt the valve one hundred percent as it’s almost impossible doing it blindly.

Start The Machine · 01-24-2019, 11:41 AM

The location of the ZZP catch can is above the turbo and downpipe. Not sure why they didn't mount it on the other side.

Zzsteve · 01-24-2019, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Start The Machine

The location of the ZZP catch can is above the turbo and downpipe. Not sure why they didn't mount it on the other side.

there is an intake manifold, coolant overflow, and (if HPT ever figures it out) a flex fuel sensor on the other side. plus it would require a very long hose to get back around the whole engine bay, back to the inlet tube. since people seem to not like the excessive amounts of hose from our competitors, we tried to eliminate, and hide as much of it as possible. i do not see any issues from it being where it is. its not as close to the turbo as it looks.

we were going to mount it on the strut tower, towards the air-box more, but then it interferes with AC lines, and does not fit with our ZFR turbo.

turbojeep95 · 01-24-2019, 04:37 PM

Thandel that valve you made is amazing! Please do a write up!

Thandel · 01-24-2019, 05:16 PM

Somewhere in this forum there is an entire write up. I have had 0 time to work on this as of late. I have played with this damn catch can system for something like a year and now that it’s on the final stages it’s just sitting. I spent months looking for a junkyard to pull a valve cover to cut apart.. ended up buying one on eBay for 70 bucks. I measured and measured but am a tiny bit off and it’s leaking past the valve so minor redesign and I’ll have it completed with enough material to make a few more

Thandel · 01-27-2019, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zzsteve

there is an intake manifold, coolant overflow, and (if HPT ever figures it out) a flex fuel sensor on the other side. plus it would require a very long hose to get back around the whole engine bay, back to the inlet tube. since people seem to not like the excessive amounts of hose from our competitors, we tried to eliminate, and hide as much of it as possible. i do not see any issues from it being where it is. its not as close to the turbo as it looks.

we were going to mount it on the strut tower, towards the air-box more, but then it interferes with AC lines, and does not fit with our ZFR turbo.

Really for the best performance the catch can should be upfront coldest area possible to promote condensation of the hot air.. the heat from the turbo kills the condensation of the vapor. I do understand the customer aspect, not wanting lines all over the place but you have more room for a larger can up front, colder temps etc. upfront.

whiskeyfed · 01-28-2019, 11:46 AM

I also posted this on FB but here are my thoughts. I will start with the fact that Tyler from ZZP confirmed that they have not had any heat issues with the can so far, but he would check on removing the can shortly after a drive.

When I did a youtube vid on engine bay temps and after a casual/slightly aggressive drive and after about 10-15 minutes of sitting in 40 degree weather with the hood open, the top of my downpipe was either 315 or 319 degrees, picture attached.

My concern is two-fold. First, this can is gonna get HOT as frig... With my mishi setup, I can pretty much pull the cans anytime with some mechanix gloves (if I can keep my hand from hitting the engine) because of their placement.

2nd concern is that I plan on installing a turbo blanket. Now all turbo blankets are non-flammable UNLESS they get flammable substances on them (i.e. oil in this situation). Having an oil catch can almost directly over the turbo gives me the heeby jeebies just thinking about it. I also have my downpipe wrapped.

What I am in love with about this setup is the hose routing and cleanliness of the engine bay. The mishi hoses are an absolute mess in the engine bay. Maybe this is because all my hoses are red but it just looks like a jumbled tangle most times.

For anyone not running a blanket or wrap on their downpipe, the only concern i would have is heat resistance of the can and hoses. The boiling point of engine oil (after a brief google) I have found to be around 575f. I am sure that the area does not get that hot but who knows... Seeing as how I was over 300f after letting it sit for 10-15 minutes in 40f ambient temps leads me to believe it is close to, if not well over 400f while driving, especially aggressively.

Now, take this with a grain of salt because I am no expert, I am just voicing my concerns. ZZP is the pro here for a reason.

geoffchad · 01-28-2019, 01:53 PM

I appreciate your effort here, but there's a big difference between radiant heat through air and direct contact. Heat transfer is a pretty good science, and there is a LOT of plastic in your engine bay that never has a problem (think all the wires everywhere, the connectors, etc).

At speed (or at idle) there is still some level of airflow through the engine bay as long as the fan is running or vehicle is moving, and even completely still with the hood closed there will be some level of local air convection around hot components.

Heck, you can stick your hand in an oven at 400F with the door open and leave it in there for a surprising amount of time - but touch the wall of the oven and you've got an instant burn.

If the heat truly were an issue, the plastic wiper cowl above the DP would hit it's glass transition temperature and deform/fatigue LONG before the oil would boil or the metal can would have any worry of it failing.

01-23-2019, 03:27 PM	#1
Start The Machine Drives: 2016 M6 2.0T Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Gig Harbor, WA Posts: 838	ZZP Catch Can 2.0 Camaro ZZP has a new catch can option for the 6th gen 2.0 Camaro and ATS. The price is right, just hope its routed correctly. I can't tell from the photos on Facebook. https://zzperformance.com/collection.../zzp-catch-can __________________ RS Package, HD Cooling Package, Brembo 6 Piston Front Brakes, SRP Racing Pedals, Soler Performance Throttle Controller, Dyno Tuned by Trifecta, Velossa Tech Ram Air, Mishimoto Intake, aFe Air Filter, Mishimoto Charge Pipes, ZZP 67mm Throttle Body, Trifecta T40 Stage 2 Turbo, JacFab Recirculation Valve, PTP Turbo Blanket, ZZP Catted Downpipe, Mishimoto Pro Cat-Back Quad Tip Exhaust, Mishimoto Catch Cans, Mishimoto Coolant Reservoir Tank, GM SEMA Grill, Ikon Motorsports Front Fascia Extension, Ikon Motorsports 1LE Spoiler, American Authority ZL1 Side Skirts, AMPP Quad Tip Rear Valance Last edited by Start The Machine; 01-24-2019 at 11:42 AM.

01-24-2019, 06:01 AM	#7
Thandel ATS 2.0T Drives: 2013 Cadillac ATS Join Date: May 2018 Location: Northern New Jersey Posts: 97 View My Garage	Here is the zzp catch can with a different name https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Alumi...rd!07044!US!-1 I tried this can not bad baffling on the mishy is better but they fill too quickly in colder climates. Too small in my opinion. I have yet to find a can at a reasonable price that has the size and baffling that works well. I’m in the process of making my own baffling system for a larger eBay can. I also made a valve like the mishi one that is made of aluminum though still perfecting it I ended up finding a valve cover so I can cut it apart and adapt the valve one hundred percent as it’s almost impossible doing it blindly. Attached Images

01-24-2019, 11:41 AM	#8
Start The Machine Drives: 2016 M6 2.0T Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Gig Harbor, WA Posts: 838	The location of the ZZP catch can is above the turbo and downpipe. Not sure why they didn't mount it on the other side. __________________ RS Package, HD Cooling Package, Brembo 6 Piston Front Brakes, SRP Racing Pedals, Soler Performance Throttle Controller, Dyno Tuned by Trifecta, Velossa Tech Ram Air, Mishimoto Intake, aFe Air Filter, Mishimoto Charge Pipes, ZZP 67mm Throttle Body, Trifecta T40 Stage 2 Turbo, JacFab Recirculation Valve, PTP Turbo Blanket, ZZP Catted Downpipe, Mishimoto Pro Cat-Back Quad Tip Exhaust, Mishimoto Catch Cans, Mishimoto Coolant Reservoir Tank, GM SEMA Grill, Ikon Motorsports Front Fascia Extension, Ikon Motorsports 1LE Spoiler, American Authority ZL1 Side Skirts, AMPP Quad Tip Rear Valance

01-28-2019, 11:46 AM	#13
whiskeyfed Pat Drives: 2017 Camaro 1LT I4 Turbo A8 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Stratford, CT Posts: 827 View My Garage	I also posted this on FB but here are my thoughts. I will start with the fact that Tyler from ZZP confirmed that they have not had any heat issues with the can so far, but he would check on removing the can shortly after a drive. When I did a youtube vid on engine bay temps and after a casual/slightly aggressive drive and after about 10-15 minutes of sitting in 40 degree weather with the hood open, the top of my downpipe was either 315 or 319 degrees, picture attached. My concern is two-fold. First, this can is gonna get HOT as frig... With my mishi setup, I can pretty much pull the cans anytime with some mechanix gloves (if I can keep my hand from hitting the engine) because of their placement. 2nd concern is that I plan on installing a turbo blanket. Now all turbo blankets are non-flammable UNLESS they get flammable substances on them (i.e. oil in this situation). Having an oil catch can almost directly over the turbo gives me the heeby jeebies just thinking about it. I also have my downpipe wrapped. What I am in love with about this setup is the hose routing and cleanliness of the engine bay. The mishi hoses are an absolute mess in the engine bay. Maybe this is because all my hoses are red but it just looks like a jumbled tangle most times. For anyone not running a blanket or wrap on their downpipe, the only concern i would have is heat resistance of the can and hoses. The boiling point of engine oil (after a brief google) I have found to be around 575f. I am sure that the area does not get that hot but who knows... Seeing as how I was over 300f after letting it sit for 10-15 minutes in 40f ambient temps leads me to believe it is close to, if not well over 400f while driving, especially aggressively. Now, take this with a grain of salt because I am no expert, I am just voicing my concerns. ZZP is the pro here for a reason. Attached Images __________________ Follow me on Instagram @whiskeyfed Subscribe on YouTube Whiskeyfed Camaro Follow my Build Thread The WhiskeyFed Camaro Current Modifications: JacFab Boost-O-Lator, Injen Evolution CAI, ZZP Catless Downpipe, RPM 3" Charge Pipe, Mishimoto Oil Filtration/Coolant Systems, R1 Concepts Brakes Package, Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs, PTP Lava Exhaust Wrap & Turbo Blanket DYNO SHEET: 297whp / 374wtq Tuned by #danytechtuning

01-23-2019, 03:32 PM	#2
_nadyax2 Drives: 2016 Chevy Camaro 2.0 Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 3 View My Garage	hey how do you feel about your JacFab Recirculation Valve and PTP Turbo Blanket...would you say its worth the money?

01-23-2019, 05:51 PM	#4
Gutling Drives: 2017 Chevrolet Camaro 2.0 LT Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Dillsboro, NC Posts: 202	The pipes look similar to the mishimoto system. unplug the 2 factory lines going to air intake on the left side of the valve cover, and plug it into catch can. then run catch can to air intake. The mishimoto has that one on the first can, and then the second can you run from the bolt you unscrew from the valve cover and replace with their special valve.

01-23-2019, 06:14 PM	#5
Gutling Drives: 2017 Chevrolet Camaro 2.0 LT Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Dillsboro, NC Posts: 202	^ So you dont think the zzp one would be very useful by itself since its the ccv side? With my mish cans (I have both) they are pretty much even when I go to empty them out. Honestly couldnt tell more oil in one over the other

01-23-2019, 08:49 PM	#6
irobles3680 Drives: 2017 2.0 Camaro LT Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: iL Posts: 63	I think most people got the mishimoto ones already but definitely would like to see how the 2 compare

01-24-2019, 04:37 PM	#10
turbojeep95 Drives: 17 Camaro lt, 22 Camaro LT1 Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Beaver, PA Posts: 411 View My Garage	Thandel that valve you made is amazing! Please do a write up!

01-24-2019, 05:16 PM	#11
Thandel ATS 2.0T Drives: 2013 Cadillac ATS Join Date: May 2018 Location: Northern New Jersey Posts: 97 View My Garage	Somewhere in this forum there is an entire write up. I have had 0 time to work on this as of late. I have played with this damn catch can system for something like a year and now that it’s on the final stages it’s just sitting. I spent months looking for a junkyard to pull a valve cover to cut apart.. ended up buying one on eBay for 70 bucks. I measured and measured but am a tiny bit off and it’s leaking past the valve so minor redesign and I’ll have it completed with enough material to make a few more

01-28-2019, 01:53 PM	#14
geoffchad Drives: 2013 ATS M6, 95 Z28 Conv M6 turbo Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Buffalo, NY Posts: 72	I appreciate your effort here, but there's a big difference between radiant heat through air and direct contact. Heat transfer is a pretty good science, and there is a LOT of plastic in your engine bay that never has a problem (think all the wires everywhere, the connectors, etc). At speed (or at idle) there is still some level of airflow through the engine bay as long as the fan is running or vehicle is moving, and even completely still with the hood closed there will be some level of local air convection around hot components. Heck, you can stick your hand in an oven at 400F with the door open and leave it in there for a surprising amount of time - but touch the wall of the oven and you've got an instant burn. If the heat truly were an issue, the plastic wiper cowl above the DP would hit it's glass transition temperature and deform/fatigue LONG before the oil would boil or the metal can would have any worry of it failing.

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