[h018871]

I ordered a set last week. Dealer says they'll be in on the 29th, we'll see

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by RUQWIKR

FYI - 84341929 is the PN for the OEM kits. The older ones said MADE IN USA and were white boxes. The ones coming now from dealers are under the same PN but in a brown box. However, it now says MADE IN CHINA (MADE IN TAIWAN, CHINA). The switch to the offshore location is probably what put them on back order for so long, and the current pandemic is delaying manufacturing and shipping worldwide. They are still available from GM, just not sure what the wait time will be.

WHOO HOOO, I got Made in USA ones then!!!

I have had mine for over a year now.

[TCL]

I just did mine. Thanks for the guidance

[Rinker]

Originally Posted by h018871

I ordered a set last week. Dealer says they'll be in on the 29th, we'll see

Did they ever come in? My dealer said there are none in the US atm thanks to the pandemic. really wanted to get these too....

[JTRATX]

For those that have done the solid inserts. The instructions don't tell you which bushings go where, top, bottom, F to R, L or R etc. There are 4 different part numbers for the bushings.

Is it self explanatory when you dis assemble?

[h018871]

The bushings have the part numbers on them, mine did anyway. The list at the front of the directions say what number goes where.

EDIT: left and right are the same, front and rear are different

[JTRATX]

Originally Posted by h018871

The bushings have the part numbers on them, mine did anyway. The list at the front of the directions say what number goes where.

EDIT: left and right are the same, front and rear are different

Thank you!

[thescreensavers]

Just installed the Aluminum bushings this weekend. I torched them out with a TS4000 on propane.


I ended up purchasing M12x1.75 threaded rod and hung my sub frame at the bolting points so I didn't have to remove the sub frame completely. I have a one car garage with almost no space in it so I did not want to remove the subframe.










1/2-20 grade 8 Threaded rod and nuts for pressing in the bushings, the holes are formed sheet metal so they are not really round but egg shaped. Its hard to get these to go in straight. Eventually they do straighten out and everything is good. (Used my M18 Fuel Impact(1000ft/lb)) to do the pressing)


I unbolted my sway bar mount(see the gap above) so they didn't get hot and melt too . I also elected to get the tops in all the way first.

The alignment holes in the back of the subframe are awesome to use. I simply used a socket that fit inside the holes with some extensions and was able to center the cradle with ease.

I also unbolted the ride height sensors (10mm) I didn't want to over extend them by accident.



This is the 36MM Tekton Socket used to Press the old bushings out, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPUKJ8/


Cradle Bolts 74 ft/lb + 90-105 deg (18MM DEEP socket)
Rear Cradle F&R Bracket Bolts 43ft/lb
Lower Shock Absorber Bolt:
74 ft/lb + 90-105 deg
Rear Brake Caliper Bolts (SS/ZL1) 92ft/lb + blue locktite
Driveshaft: 66 ft/lb + blue locktite
Lower Shock Bolt: 74 ft/lb + 90-105 deg
Swaybar Bushing Mount: 16ft/lb

[TCL]

Good job. I did mine last month, didn’t drop the cradle either.

[20Bluezl1]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

Just installed the Aluminum bushings this weekend. I torched them out with a TS4000 on propane.


I ended up purchasing M12x1.75 threaded rod and hung my sub frame at the bolting points so I didn't have to remove the sub frame completely. I have a one car garage with almost no space in it so I did not want to remove the subframe.










1/2-20 grade 8 Threaded rod and nuts for pressing in the bushings, the holes are formed sheet metal so they are not really round but egg shaped. Its hard to get these to go in straight. Eventually they do straighten out and everything is good. (Used my M18 Fuel Impact(1000ft/lb)) to do the pressing)


I unbolted my sway bar mount(see the gap above) so they didn't get hot and melt too . I also elected to get the tops in all the way first.

The alignment holes in the back of the subframe are awesome to use. I simply used a socket that fit inside the holes with some extensions and was able to center the cradle with ease.

I also unbolted the ride height sensors (10mm) I didn't want to over extend them by accident.



This is the 36MM Tekton Socket used to Press the old bushings out, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPUKJ8/


Cradle Bolts 74 ft/lb + 90-105 deg (18MM DEEP socket)
Rear Cradle F&R Bracket Bolts 43ft/lb
Lower Shock Absorber Bolt:
74 ft/lb + 90-105 deg
Rear Brake Caliper Bolts (SS/ZL1) 92ft/lb + blue locktite
Driveshaft: 66 ft/lb + blue locktite
Lower Shock Bolt: 74 ft/lb + 90-105 deg
Swaybar Bushing Mount: 16ft/lb

Do you have to disconnect the driveshaft?

Also looks like you pressed the top bushing frist using the lower upside-down correct?

[driven2exceSS]

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

Do you have to disconnect the driveshaft?

I didn't (FWIW)

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

Do you have to disconnect the driveshaft?

Also looks like you pressed the top bushing frist using the lower upside-down correct?

I was not in a rush so I didn't play around with seeing what I could get away with. The D/S is 3 bolts and is really easy to access once the exhaust is out. So its easy to undo and redo. (don't forget to mark the flanges on the drive shaft so you can reinstall the same way)



I did do the tops bushings first, after doing these I am not sure it matters a whole lot, Just stay consistent with which ever way you start it on all of them. One side will have a small gap so I chose that to be the bottoms.

[shogun37]

BMR uses 95shore material. I'm planning to make my own out of 80shore which is what I have on the Mustang (curtesy of WHiteline) to keep NVH down. Plus I can source the material for a fraction of the BMR kit price. Would anyone else be interested?

Also the reason the aluminum core doesn't have slop in it is because if it doesn't line up with the holes in the chassis the IRS is not properly aligned. Or is it the contention that GM chassis manufacturing is so incompetent they can't accurately place 4 bolt holes and matching bushing cups in the IRS subframe? Do the Aluminum inserts have oversized ID and if so by how much? Low-rent Ford manages to pull it off, surely the actual engineers at GM can too.

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by shogun37

BMR uses 95shore material. I'm planning to make my own out of 80shore which is what I have on the Mustang (curtesy of WHiteline) to keep NVH down. Plus I can source the material for a fraction of the BMR kit price. Would anyone else be interested?

Also the reason the aluminum core doesn't have slop in it is because if it doesn't line up with the holes in the chassis the IRS is not properly aligned. Or is it the contention that GM chassis manufacturing is so incompetent they can't accurately place 4 bolt holes and matching bushing cups in the IRS subframe? Do the Aluminum inserts have oversized ID and if so by how much? Low-rent Ford manages to pull it off, surely the actual engineers at GM can too.

After installing the aluminum bushings I barely noticed an NVH change, if you go Delrin/Poly or w/e 95 is more than likely going to be fine.


The Main ID of the aluminum bushings is 20mm


IMO I would just go and buy the GM bushings, unless you have your own lathe its going to cost more especially if you buy new hardware.