[20Bluezl1]

I'm looking to upgrade the suspension on my zl1 with the following BMR components
-Upper Trailing Arm, On-car Adjustable
- Lower Trailing Arms, On-car Adjustable
- Toe Rod, Double Adjustable
- Upper Control Arms, On-car Adjustable

And I'm also doing the ZLE solid rear cradle bushing.

My question to those that have done the same mods, I was reading that those suspension mods mess with the oem handling and the geometry of the car.and the Mag suspension rates. Im not worried about noise but don't wont to be doing the mods and the handling goes to the worst instead of improving it.

[20Bluezl1]

No one has done these mods and have feedback?

[Msquared]

The bottom line is: it depends on what you want to do with the car:

• If you're driving it on the street, these won't help you at all.
• If you're drag racing it, I doubt these will help but I'm not 100% sure. The most likely candidates for improvements if drag racing are the upper and lower trailing arms.
• If you're going to autocross and/or track the car and your class rules allow it, then the toe link should be a big help in getting more rear negative camber, and the upper control arm could also help with this if it can go shorter than stock. The trailing arms could give you some caster adjustment, which in the rear really just helps you play with bump steer; and at best would take a ton of testing and measuring to know whether you're helping or hurting.

One thing you should know: BMR's claim that the stock links "flex under cornering loads giving you inconsistent handling characteristics" is just wrong. All the links in the rear suspension are loaded only in tension and/or compression. There is no lateral load to induce bending. So don't buy into the marketing hype.

That said, their links that have rod ends at one or both ends will certainly not harm anything except your bank account. The other thing you should consider from BMR is the cradle bushing kits (they have options) and maybe the diff mounts (especially if drag racing). These are universally praised for helping the car launch and handle better. It depends on your use and any competition rules you have to follow, but these may be more helpful than any of the rear links except the toe links (and again, the toe links are only helpful if you want more camber for cornering).

[20Bluezl1]

So its not my daily driver and when i do take it out its for backroads twisty's and I go pretty hard on them. I will be going to the track soon so was thinking in starting to upgrade if helped the handling qnd feel.

[20Bluezl1]

So to my understanding the stock suspension components can't be upgraded because they are strong enough?

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

So to my understanding the stock suspension components can't be upgraded because they are strong enough?

They are strong enough and the loads are directed in such a way that bending the links isn't an issue. Where you would make improvements with aftermarket links is:

• Reducing bushing compliance by replacing some of the stock rubber bushings with rod ends.
• Getting more adjustment for camber and toe by using threaded rod ends to allow more range.

For track events, I'd want to try the toe links first, and maybe also the cradle bushing upgrades. That's what I would prioritize.

[Og Neon]

Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1

I'm looking to upgrade the suspension on my zl1 with the following BMR components
-Upper Trailing Arm, On-car Adjustable
- Lower Trailing Arms, On-car Adjustable
- Toe Rod, Double Adjustable
- Upper Control Arms, On-car Adjustable

And I'm also doing the ZLE solid rear cradle bushing.

My question to those that have done the same mods, I was reading that those suspension mods mess with the oem handling and the geometry of the car.and the Mag suspension rates. Im not worried about noise but don't wont to be doing the mods and the handling goes to the worst instead of improving it.

I am currently installing those exact components and break out right now. I am regretting buying the single adjustable upper control arms though. I would get the double adjustable ones like you have for the toe as well. The single adjustable is possible to adjust camber, but it will be a PITA to make that adjustment with the single. I don't think any shop is going to tolerate adjusting that one on their alignment rack, but if you get the double adjustable it is a lot more feasible.

I am also going to replace the factory camber adjusters with the same bolt and washer kit on the toe arms, that way the only way camber can be adjusted is with the upper control arm. I don't trust the factory eccentric bolt and washer and I track heavily.

Just my 2 cents from someone installing them right now, hope that helps.

[shogun37]

so basically there is no point to changing the trailing links? But is advisable to get 'on-car adjust' upper control arm to make camber changes easy?

going to replace the factory camber adjusters with the same bolt and washer kit on the toe arms

Do you have a handy source? I assume you're referring to the parts that come with the BMR toe rod kit (TR007) Did you do a cross-check against McMaster Carr?
Of the 3+ bushings on the wheel hub casting, which are best served being replaced with bearings?

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by shogun37

so basically there is no point to changing the trailing links? But is advisable to get 'on-car adjust' upper control arm to make camber changes easy?

As I wrote above, in addition to getting extra alignnent adjustment, the spherical-bearing versions reduce bushing compliance to nil.