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Old 03-23-2022, 11:08 PM   #1
simanio872
 
Drives: 2022 2SS
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Lowered Fitment Spec Help

Hey guys!

So I'm planning on getting some new wheels for my 22 SS here shortly and was hoping somebody could help me out with some fitment specs. The wheels I'm looking at are 20x10 +23 and 20x11 +43. Now i don't have a whole lot of knowledge on wheel fitment but if my math is right that should leave me right around the same overall offset as my stock rears and a touch more overall in the front. I am currently sitting on some Silvers coilovers (awesome coilovers by the way) and tucking tire on the rear and front, so i am a little concerned about buying some wheels and not being able to clear the fender with them. Here are the exact wheels i want to go with (https://www.phastekperformance.com/M...0-20x11-gb.htm) and i will try to attach a picture of the car too. Andy info or recommendations would be awesome, i would really like to go with these specific wheels but if anybody has any different wheel widths/offsets they would recommend i would really appreciate it!

Thanks!!
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Old 03-23-2022, 11:08 PM   #2
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No idea why that pic is upside down, sorry about that!
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Old 03-24-2022, 12:23 AM   #3
cdb95z28


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simanio872 View Post
No idea why that pic is upside down, sorry about that!
Here ya go.

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Old 03-24-2022, 12:35 AM   #4
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Great looking hot rod!

You might consider getting that rear height up some more, not only is it better for the suspension dynamics, it will look better. Some is good, more is better doesn't always work. Too much of a good thing can wreak havoc on suspension dynamics. Being too low also means it is riding on the bump stops more and that doesn't help the ride quality.

Those wheel specs you listed are almost the same as the Gen6 SS 1LE wheels. So that is a very good, known setup from the factory. The SS 1LE offsets are ET20 for the front and ET43 for the rear. The 3mm difference at the front means the wheel is inward more. You will have to look at your wheel/tire to strut clearances. And it will limit how much negative camber you can achieve. But with that amount of drop at both the front and rear you'll have to really look at everything else to make sure the clearances are good. Not just the side clearances but the the tops of the tires to the wheelhouses. You are also going wider, so that tightens things up on clearances.

Also, did you "time the bushings"? Any rubber bushing should have its fastener loosened when the vehicle is at final ride height. Once the bushing is in a neutral state the fasteners can be tightened back to torque spec. If this is not done the bushings are in a state of bind and this can cause bouncy/stiff suspension movement.

The rear toe and camber adjustment bolts are one time use fasteners, they must be replaced with new.
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Old 03-24-2022, 11:07 AM   #5
simanio872
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdb95z28 View Post
Great looking hot rod!

You might consider getting that rear height up some more, not only is it better for the suspension dynamics, it will look better. Some is good, more is better doesn't always work. Too much of a good thing can wreak havoc on suspension dynamics. Being too low also means it is riding on the bump stops more and that doesn't help the ride quality.

Those wheel specs you listed are almost the same as the Gen6 SS 1LE wheels. So that is a very good, known setup from the factory. The SS 1LE offsets are ET20 for the front and ET43 for the rear. The 3mm difference at the front means the wheel is inward more. You will have to look at your wheel/tire to strut clearances. And it will limit how much negative camber you can achieve. But with that amount of drop at both the front and rear you'll have to really look at everything else to make sure the clearances are good. Not just the side clearances but the the tops of the tires to the wheelhouses. You are also going wider, so that tightens things up on clearances.

Also, did you "time the bushings"? Any rubber bushing should have its fastener loosened when the vehicle is at final ride height. Once the bushing is in a neutral state the fasteners can be tightened back to torque spec. If this is not done the bushings are in a state of bind and this can cause bouncy/stiff suspension movement.

The rear toe and camber adjustment bolts are one time use fasteners, they must be replaced with new.

Thank you for all the awesome info dude!! I will definitely be adjusting the height in the near future, i got lazy after the install and didn't want to crawl back under the rig I actually didn't realize they were the same size/offset as the 1le, think i might be able to convince my buddy to let me try his wheels on!

Thank you man!!
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Old 03-24-2022, 11:53 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simanio872 View Post
I actually didn't realize they were the same size/offset as the 1le, think i might be able to convince my buddy to let me try his wheels on!
I could be wrong, but I think the offset for the stock 1LE front wheels is 20 mm (not 23).
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Old 03-24-2022, 12:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simanio872 View Post
Thank you for all the awesome info dude!! I will definitely be adjusting the height in the near future, i got lazy after the install and didn't want to crawl back under the rig I actually didn't realize they were the same size/offset as the 1le, think i might be able to convince my buddy to let me try his wheels on!

Thank you man!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hankaro View Post
I could be wrong, but I think the offset for the stock 1LE front wheels is 20 mm (not 23).
Exactly, and those 3 millimeters can make a difference when you don't have much strut perch clearance to begin with. simanio872, you need to read what cdb95z28 wrote more carefully.
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Old 03-24-2022, 12:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simanio872 View Post
The wheels I'm looking at are 20x10 +23 and 20x11 +43.
You don’t mention what size tires you’re looking at. You will want to be careful about the tire size too. Even if the wheels fit the wrong size tires will rub.
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