Caliper bolt help!

ShadySS · 10-13-2019, 12:40 PM

Hi everyone, My car needs new brakes, easy enough right? so I ordered the parts, pads and rotors.

went to install them this morning, got the pins out and the bracket that hold the pads out, got the pads out, all is going well so far, go to take the caliper bolts out, and they're tough, get the breaker bar, the bottom one starts to loosen off a bit, but its fighting me the whole time, even after I've gotten it about 1/2in-3/4 backed out, now it wont even budge, not even with an impact.

anyone else have experience with these bolts? are they hard to remove? do i need a stronger impact? the one I'm using is supposed to be rated at 240FT-lb but it doesn't fit so I'm using an adapter and maybe that's causing it to lose power.

any help would be greatly appreciated! thank you.

ssmofo · 10-13-2019, 02:19 PM

Sounds cross threaded, try lube, cause everything is better with a lil lube,

Wilka_SS · 10-13-2019, 04:08 PM

They're blue or orange loctited from the factory, put down your purse and loosen the bolts.

Zaqwert6 · 10-13-2019, 04:09 PM

Crossed or plain galling. Short answer its F'd. Try heat but good chance you'll break it off.

trohde78 · 10-13-2019, 04:27 PM

Mine were very hard to get off as well. It's the factory loctite. They came out halfway then stopped. Maxed out the impact gun and they came out though.

ShadySS · 10-13-2019, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trohde78

Mine were very hard to get off as well. It's the factory loctite. They came out halfway then stopped. Maxed out the impact gun and they came out though.

This is what I'm hoping for, I think my gun isn't strong enough, especially with the old rusted angle adapter I have.

dpevans · 10-13-2019, 05:25 PM

My question is, are you upgrading the brakes with better rotors? Why not turn them if it's your first brake job.

ShadySS · 10-13-2019, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpevans

My question is, are you upgrading the brakes with better rotors? Why not turn them if it's your first brake job.

Not upgrading, just OEM replacement, wanted to get them turned but I got a good deal on the OEM rotors so I'm just replacing.

Whitespeed · 10-13-2019, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShadySS

This is what I'm hoping for, I think my gun isn't strong enough, especially with the old rusted angle adapter I have.

Also make sure you are using an impact socket. Standard sockets absorb too much of the impact. Some heat may help too. Doesn't have to be oxy acetylene, just something to soften up the thread locker.

Nigel

ShadySS · 10-13-2019, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

Also make sure you are using an impact socket. Standard sockets absorb too much of the impact. Some heat may help too. Doesn't have to be oxy acetylene, just something to soften up the thread locker.

Nigel

Thanks for the advice! I'll hit it with some heat, and make sure I'm using an impact socket.

Wilka_SS · 10-13-2019, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

Also make sure you are using an impact socket. Standard sockets absorb too much of the impact. Some heat may help too. Doesn't have to be oxy acetylene, just something to soften up the thread locker.

Nigel

That's not how an impact socket works, if anything you want a chrome socket because it transfers more force. That's why you aren't supposed to torque anything with impact sockets and that's why impact sockets are cheaper. They are softer.

rocknss · 10-13-2019, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wilka_SS

That's not how an impact socket works, if anything you want a chrome socket because it transfers more force. That's why you aren't supposed to torque anything with impact sockets and that's why impact sockets are cheaper. They are softer.

You are wrong!

Impact sockets are less hard and absorb blows. You can think of impact sockets as being designed to withstand significant jolts of power, whereas chrome sockets are made for hand torque applied (much slower and more consistent). Chrome sockets should never be used on high-torque impact guns or wrenches. This is a quote from agradetools.com

L78toLT1 · 10-14-2019, 08:04 AM

Turn your compressor wide open and use your impact gun to run the bolts back in then alternate between loosening and tightening to break up the factory thread locker and you should be able to coax them out.

Allez · 10-14-2019, 08:28 AM

Doubt OP's impact wrench is an air tool if it's only rated for 240 ft/lb

May need a higher rated one. My son bought a cheap Harbor Freight impact wrench rated for 230 ft/lb, was pretty much worthless. Even my cordless Kobalt one is rated for more than 600 ft/lb

10-13-2019, 12:40 PM	#1
ShadySS Drives: 2017 Hyper Blue SS Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Toronto Posts: 107	Caliper bolt help! Hi everyone, My car needs new brakes, easy enough right? so I ordered the parts, pads and rotors. went to install them this morning, got the pins out and the bracket that hold the pads out, got the pads out, all is going well so far, go to take the caliper bolts out, and they're tough, get the breaker bar, the bottom one starts to loosen off a bit, but its fighting me the whole time, even after I've gotten it about 1/2in-3/4 backed out, now it wont even budge, not even with an impact. anyone else have experience with these bolts? are they hard to remove? do i need a stronger impact? the one I'm using is supposed to be rated at 240FT-lb but it doesn't fit so I'm using an adapter and maybe that's causing it to lose power. any help would be greatly appreciated! thank you.

10-14-2019, 08:04 AM	#13
L78toLT1 Drives: Hyper Blue 2016 2SS 6M Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: North Ga Posts: 1,787	Turn your compressor wide open and use your impact gun to run the bolts back in then alternate between loosening and tightening to break up the factory thread locker and you should be able to coax them out. __________________ Baby Blue 2016 Hyper Blue 2SS/6m/MRC/NPP/Silver Rally stripes/ZL1 wheels & brakes/GForce DS and axles/ZLE Cradle Bushings/FE4 ARB front & rear/SEMA Grill/Rotofab dry/95mm TB/Magnuson 2300/Full LT4 fuel system/JMS boost-a-pump/E85 Sensor/Ported CID heads from LME/Cammotion PD cam/Thompson Motorsports forged shortblock/catted Kooks 1 7/8 headers /JRE remote tuned

10-13-2019, 02:19 PM	#2
ssmofo Drives: Chevy Camaro Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: Dallas Posts: 420	Sounds cross threaded, try lube, cause everything is better with a lil lube,

10-13-2019, 04:08 PM	#3
Wilka_SS Drives: 2016 Nightfall Metallic Grey 2ss Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: New Orleans, LA Posts: 121	They're blue or orange loctited from the factory, put down your purse and loosen the bolts.

10-13-2019, 04:09 PM	#4
Zaqwert6 Drives: 2SS Join Date: Jul 2019 Location: USA Posts: 396 View My Garage	Crossed or plain galling. Short answer its F'd. Try heat but good chance you'll break it off.

10-13-2019, 04:27 PM	#5
trohde78 Drives: '17 Red Hot 2SS 6MT Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Chicago Suburbs Posts: 346	Mine were very hard to get off as well. It's the factory loctite. They came out halfway then stopped. Maxed out the impact gun and they came out though.

10-13-2019, 05:25 PM	#7
dpevans Drives: 2024 Riverside Blue 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 1,208	My question is, are you upgrading the brakes with better rotors? Why not turn them if it's your first brake job.

10-14-2019, 08:28 AM	#14
Allez Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Maryland Posts: 794	Doubt OP's impact wrench is an air tool if it's only rated for 240 ft/lb May need a higher rated one. My son bought a cheap Harbor Freight impact wrench rated for 230 ft/lb, was pretty much worthless. Even my cordless Kobalt one is rated for more than 600 ft/lb

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