[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by baron95

I have 2 jacks so, I'd be jacking using 2 jacks (jacking a little at a time from each). This way I can lift either side, full front or full back completely. Seems like much less stress on the vehicles and the pinch weld. Thoughts?

I use this method for jacking all of my cars, except for the relatively rare occasion where I specifically need to remove only one tire. I think a car stays a little more stable when lifted more evenly as well. Always with hockey pucks on the jack pads.

4 - Question, not Camaro specific. When lifting both rear (e.g. to rotate tires side to side) are just front wheel chocks safe enough to prevent the car from rolling?

With jacks, I block ahead of both front wheels and behind at least one of them (usually both). With ramps, only in front mostly because the ramps have their own stop blocks built in. I have a variety of bricks, cobblestones, and what-not that have enough grip on my concrete driveway that when I occasionally forget to remove them they'd get driven over before they'd slide.


Thanks for the jackstand pad thought. Those won't fit any of mine, but I'm sure I can come up with something similar that will.


Norm

[Burly]

I am going to attempt to get the entire car on jack stands for removing wheels to be powder coated, paint calipers and new brake pads. I am more than nervous about this, I have only jacked one side or wheel at time before. I have the ZL1addons lift pads on there. I am going to borrow a second jack to simultaneously lift from back or front. Should I do front first or rear? Any other tips suggestions?

[Norm Peterson]

I'd be inclined to do the rear first, with the front wheels allowed to roll back slightly before contacting any blocks/chocks. That will take side loading off of at least the jacks (car in gear/in 'P', or with the P-brake set would also cause side loading if you lift the front first). If you were only jacking the rear, you'd reset the chocks once you've set the car down onto the stands, but in your all-four case that won't be necessary.


Norm

[H@di]

The pics will talk.
Btw, this happened in our dealer garage.

[craigss50]

Originally Posted by H@di

The pics will talk.
Btw, this happened in our dealer.

Wow that pic is worth the thousand words posted here.

[Zaqwert6]

Originally Posted by H@di

The pics will talk.
Btw, this happened in our dealer.

Has your car put on a lot of weight recently?

[Memphis SS]

Looks like the myth busters myth got busted.. I think I will stick to using the ZL1addon pucks.. case closed

[H@di]

Originally Posted by Zaqwert6

Has your car put on a lot of weight recently?

Not at all 🤣🤣

[Warrior102]

Originally Posted by Burly

I am going to attempt to get the entire car on jack stands for removing wheels to be powder coated, paint calipers and new brake pads. I am more than nervous about this, I have only jacked one side or wheel at time before. I have the ZL1addons lift pads on there. I am going to borrow a second jack to simultaneously lift from back or front. Should I do front first or rear? Any other tips suggestions?

I do it all the time, I use the rearmost front jack point and lift that side (both wheels come up) and set on stands on the front and rear pads, then roll around to the other-side and repeat. Just make sure the driveway surface is clean so the jack will roll forward as the car is lifted, if I'm alone I check the jack stand side to make sure its stable and not tipping a few times while jacking. [IMG][/IMG]

[Zaqwert6]

Originally Posted by Warrior102

I do it all the time, I use the rearmost front jack point and lift that side (both wheels come up) and set on stands on the front and rear pads, then roll around to the other-side and repeat. Just make sure the driveway surface is clean so the jack will roll forward as the car is lifted, if I'm alone I check the jack stand side to make sure its stable and not tipping a few times while jacking. [IMG][/IMG]

Ummm.... he posted that like a year-and-a-half ago. :-)

[winter568]

QuickJacks make life easy and they are worth it for safety.

[Norm Peterson]

"Making life easy" is very much job-dependent.

It'd certainly be great for most jobs involving the wheels, brakes, or suspension. Wouldn't be my first choice for doing exhaust system work, installing a shifter, or a clutch job though.


Norm

[ac-427]

I published this previously. I hope it is helpful.

I don't like lifting my car. In fact, I have nightmares about it lying flat on the garage floor with the wheels off and no way for me to raise it. Soooo.....I'm sharing the most conservative approach I could come up with short of buying ramps that slide too easily or a drive on lift that's too expensive for my budget.

1. Equipment: (4) Torin 6000 lb aluminum jack stands purchased at Pep Boys, (2) 4000 lb jacks, and ZL-1 Addons Permanent Lift Pads for Gen 6 convertibles.

2. Equipment Locations: I started with the front and used the Cross Brace attachment bolts shown in the photographs as the points to locate the floor jack saddles. For the front, I used the outer bolt (circled in red) and for the rear I used the inner bolt (circled in yellow). The Torin jack stands have a saddle that fits the ZL-1 Lift Pads perfectly and the base on them is small enough that interference between the floor jack and stand is eliminated. In my method, a wider based jack stand would not have worked due to interference problems.

3. Jacking Procedure: Since I wanted to avoid twisting the body, I centered the jacks on the cross brace bolt (circled in red) in the front and gradually raised the car by going from side to side in small increments until I got to the height I wanted. After making sure the front was secure, I used the inner cross brace bolt (circled in yellow) to raise the rear using the same side to side method.

Conclusion, I was getting the car ready for the Dallas Autorama so thoroughly cleaning wheels, wheel wells and the bottom of the car was a necessity. Using my method, I heard no creaks in the body, or other evidence of twisting or misalignment. Also, the stands are extremely secure, take up the smallest amount of room possible, and don't scratch the floor. Yep, my method ain't cheap but it costs a lot less than the damage accruing from my beloved Camaro falling off a jack.
Attached Images

[Mighty Mouce]

Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram

Been reading a lot about jacking points. Seems that many swear that we need special jacking pads, that they can only go in one place, and that the car will implode if we don't use them (OK, I might have made that last one up). I've seen pictures of underbellies of cars where someone used MS Paint to circle supposed "jack points". I've even seen videos where people pointed at certain parts and said, "See this? This is aluminum - don't jack here."

But, I knew there was a problem with this theory. After all, when the professionals deliver the car, they don't tie them down with tire straps. They attach straps to hard points UNDER the car. And, these hard points have to be near the edges of the car. And, it stands to reason that if they are reinforced enough to hold a car on a trailer with a tiny T- or J-hook, they should be strong enough to support the car on a jack or jack stand.

So, I decided to investigate.

Sure enough, there's steel under there. Here's a picture of the front jack point of the car (assuming you have a real jack that has ~12 square inches of area on the jacking pad - not a scissor jack). It's just rearward of the front wheels - the black part with 2 big holes and 2 small ones.


(note - I took this pic after jacking the car up, and there is no noticeable mark, denting, or deformity)

And, to prove that it's steel . . .



. . . I stuck my magnetic bowl to it.

So, if you want to buy fancy jacking thingies for your car, have at it. But, if you want to just jack the car up and get to work, use these points.

One guys car here collasped when the dealer put it on the lift wrong.