10-19-2020, 07:04 PM | #1 |
Car Sitting uneven
Just jacked my car up the other day to change my power steering fluid and noticed that one wheel was scraping the ground when spun and the other had about 1/2 inch of clearance. Held up by jack stands on the exact some spot on each side of the frame under the engine. Is this a bent frame?? That’s my worst nightmare so I’m hoping it’s something smaller that’s suspension related although everything seems to be the same side to side. Any good tips for figuring this one out? Car has koni orange shocks with eibach springs everything else is stock.
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10-19-2020, 08:39 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2015 Z/22 Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 930
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Assuming the driveway is fairly level and flat, perhaps the bushings weren't timed properly after install the springs and shocks. How does the ride compare on either side when the car is on the ground?
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Overkill/Self Tuned; Mace Camshafts; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake; Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts
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10-20-2020, 06:41 AM | #3 |
Honestly I think you hit the nail on the head. I never timed them when I did my shock and spring install bc I couldn’t get the bolts loose. The right side is refinery more bouncy than the left. Any tips for getting those bolts unstuck?
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10-20-2020, 08:16 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2015 Z/22 Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 930
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When I did my suspension I didn't have any issues getting any bolts loose. If the bolts aren't rusty I wouldn't be worried about snapping them, just get as big a bar you need and give 'er. I used a medium power plug-in impact wrench and zipped them all off with no issues.
Ideally to time the bolts you'll do it on the alignment rack, by loosening all the bolts in question with the car on the rack, jouncing the car (or drive off and back on the rack very slowly), then tightening them back up. If you want to do this at home, you can do a decent job by jacking up the knuckle to the normal ride height and tightening down everything - this isn't ideal as you may not get the suspension to the exact ride height, but with some measurement you can get pretty close. I believe factory ride height is ~660mm from the bottom of the wheel lip (not the ground) to the fender (maybe check this forum for typical ride heights, front and rear); from here measure the distance from wheel lip to center of wheel and subtract that from 660, then subtract for your springs. So, let's say from wheel lip to center is 254mm (20" x 25.4mm / 2) and your springs are a 1" drop (25.4mm), you get 660 - 254 - 25.4 = 380.6mm (distance from center of wheel to fender at factory ride height, minus advertised lowering), so jack up the knuckle until the center of the axle is ~380.6mm from the fender then tighten everything. It may not be exact but it'll get you close. Or just have the alignment tech do this while getting an alignment.
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Overkill/Self Tuned; Mace Camshafts; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake; Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts
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10-20-2020, 02:37 PM | #5 | |
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Tags |
confused, help me please, help needed, suspension |
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