[MeanZL11LE]

The lift points for this car are ridiculous!! Our car has 3 sets of cut outs on both sides of the rocker panels to access the pinch welds for lifting. I bought some pucks on Amazon to place under the pinch welds to protect them and also give me more clearance for the lift.

The quick jack you see is my brother n laws, (quick jack 5000) which I wanted to try before buying one. It turns out that the lift wouldn't reach the cut out closest to the front wheel so I used the second one. Quick jack makes a longer version I think EXT which I plan on buying!

Hope that helps

JR

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

[Apexslayer]

Does anyone have any before and after track times with the Street setting versus the Track setting?

[Mr. Wyndham]

Originally Posted by MeanZL11LE

The lift points for this car are ridiculous!! Our car has 3 sets of cut outs on both sides of the rocker panels to access the pinch welds for lifting. I bought some pucks on Amazon to place under the pinch welds to protect them and also give me more clearance for the lift.

The quick jack you see is my brother n laws, (quick jack 5000) which I wanted to try before buying one. It turns out that the lift wouldn't reach the cut out closest to the front wheel so I used the second one. Quick jack makes a longer version I think EXT which I plan on buying!

Hope that helps

JR

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I have a 7000 regular length, so it'll fit under my Sonic AND lift the Silverado...works great for both of those. But I can't get it to lift up the ZL1!!! AGH!!

Did you use those pucks on all four corners? I found last time I tried that, it made the vehicle really unstable up there.

[MeanZL11LE]

Why can't you get it to lift? Too long? Can you explain what's preventing you.

I have a half ton GMC and would love to have dual purpose lift for both!

Without the pucks the square rubber blocks from the quickjack crush the rocker panel. I cut a narrow notch through the pucks so they hug the pinch welds and makes it extremely stable for all 4 corners.

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[Mr. Wyndham]

Originally Posted by MeanZL11LE

Why can't you get it to lift? Too long? Can you explain what's preventing you.

I have a half ton GMC and would love to have dual purpose lift for both!

Without the pucks the square rubber blocks from the quickjack crush the rocker panel. I cut a narrow notch through the pucks so they hug the pinch welds and makes it extremely stable for all 4 corners.

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I'll tell you a story....where I tried to lift my Sonic...and I used the pinch weld pucks because I thought it would be convenient...as soon as the Quick Jack got to full rise...the Sonic fell off.

Luckily, it wasn't bad, and I only scuffed the underside of the rocker panel. The QuickJack was solid as a rock...it gently went down, and all was well. But when I tried again with the pucks, I just lifted a few inches to get a feel for what happened - and the car was very wiggly. So I am hesitant to use them again...especially on a ZL1 1LE!!!

But, if you say it's stable...maybe I missed something with the Sonic. I'll try again, very slowly!

...and get the 7000 series. It lifted the truck with NO hesitation, and was stable as anything, I had the blocks placed on the frame, slightly forward of center to account for weight distribution. Did a four-corner brake job, tire rotation, and oil change all at the same time - no fussing with jack stands or floor jacks.

[Johnkout1]

Originally Posted by 2010REDSS

It's best to switch to the "Track Camber" settings, then get the entire car aligned to the track alignment recommended in the manual.

That alignment has worked well for me at RoadAmerica and Road Atlanta.

My alignment guy told me it's either street or track and there isn't any other adjustment he could find for camber. Is that right?

[ICTsccaCamaro]

Originally Posted by Johnkout1

My alignment guy told me it's either street or track and there isn't any other adjustment he could find for camber. Is that right?

You need to find a new alignment guy, he either is lazy or doesn't know suspension, there is camber adjustment at the knuckle, the 2 bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle can be loosened and camber can be added or removed.

[Repman]

I use this alignment that I got from a you tuber that races a ZL1-1LE works great for me with very even tire wear

[seanblurr]

That's a bit too much camber for stock tires.

[Repman]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

That's a bit too much camber for stock tires.

Not sure I agree , I have 4 full days at Road Atlanta and the tires are wearing very evenly . To each his own I find that most are not running enough camber and correct toe. I posted a chart that works great on my car after seeing others in similar cars have less positive results

The pictures below are 4 full days at Road Atlanta , I just posted one side but the other side has similar results

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by Repman

I use this alignment that I got from a you tuber that races a ZL1-1LE works great for me with very even tire wear

Yeah, Jeff Cook runs a lot of camber and gets the most out of it. Can't argue with his lap times :-)


When he drove my car with 2.8 degrees (on nearly new 3Rs) he said he could feel the difference and reduced performance.

[Repman]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

Yeah, Jeff Cook runs a lot of camber and gets the most out of it. Can't argue with his lap times :-)


When he drove my car with 2.8 degrees (on nearly new 3Rs) he said he could feel the difference and reduced performance.

I think you should try this alignment on yours I think you will be impressed I have not had one guy who has that went back to factory recommendations in the performance manual . Don’t know Jeff but have seen his videos and he can wheel a car .

[seanblurr]

Track dependent, I suppose. I used a pyrometer and anything over -3 was too much for a 3R.

I will not argue, those tires look pretty good for 4 events deep. My fronts are bald after 2. What sort of pace are you running?

[Alain]

Originally Posted by Mr. Wyndham

WHAT ARE YOUR LIFT POINTS!?!?!?!

I was just trying to do this with my QuickJack on Friday, and I couldn't f#(*^Q#(% figure out where to put the blocks!!

(Can you take pictures for me? Pretty please? )

Originally Posted by MeanZL11LE

The lift points for this car are ridiculous!! Our car has 3 sets of cut outs on both sides of the rocker panels to access the pinch welds for lifting. I bought some pucks on Amazon to place under the pinch welds to protect them and also give me more clearance for the lift.

The quick jack you see is my brother n laws, (quick jack 5000) which I wanted to try before buying one. It turns out that the lift wouldn't reach the cut out closest to the front wheel so I used the second one. Quick jack makes a longer version I think EXT which I plan on buying!

Hope that helps

JR

Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

I have the quick jack EXT 7000. Bought it last year after I had a disastrous experience with a floor jack. My passenger side fender got crushed and had to be replaced.

The EXT version doesn’t reach the front lift point (the one nearest to the front tires) either. I was very surprised to see that when I went to lift my ZL1 1LE for the first time this spring. You have to use the middle and rear lift points like the picture shows in that earlier post.

Since I was forced to use the two rear lift points I was worried about the car being unstable on the quickjack since the front (heaviest part of the car) was not very well supported.

I had zero issues with stability when the car was lifted. I was doing tire swaps on all 4 corners, I made sure to always have at least one of the rear wheels mounted on the car to act as a counterweight. I’m glad I see this picture where all the wheels are off and the car is still on the quickjack. Shows how stable the quickjack is.

By the way, after doing some deductive thinking I’m realizing that using that center lift point is stable enough to keep the car balanced on the quickjack. Reason being, when you use a floor jack on that middle lift point the entire side of the car (front and rear wheels) come off the ground. That tells me that the chassis is stiff enough and the weight of the car is evenly distributed when using the middle lift point).

AS FAR AS SAFELY USING THE LIFT POINTS. That was a nightmare to figure out how to do without crushing the plastic ground effects pieces. Here’s what I did and worked like a charm boys.

Get yourselves those ZL1 Addons permanent lift point adapters (the ones that stay mounted on the car). The rubber blocks that come with the quickjack will work just fine when used in conjunction with the ZL1 Addons lift points.

The quickjack will make slight contact with the ground effects pieces but it will not cause any damage.

Getting a quickjack is the Best money you can spend if you do any type of work under the car but don’t have the space for a regular lift.

Using a floor jack can be a pain in the ass with this car because there isn’t enough clearance in the cutout to access the pinch welds without mangling something.