[sr71bb]

Thanks KROPS for the info!!!

Ok guys after careful consideration I went ahead and ordered a SPARCO seat slider for this drivers seat.

Since I mainly use this car as a DAILY DRIVER I just felt like I wanted a little better entry access. PLUS I put the seat CLOSER to the steering wheel when I am tracking vs. just daily driving.

I dont really run any events that REQUIRE FIA compliance anyway so there you have it (sliders are NOT FIA compliant).

[kropscamaro16]

no worries what did you decide for harness?

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

no worries what did you decide for harness?

I think I am going to get THIS one:

https://competitionmotorsport.com/co...43204156719323

Seems like they are going now with 6 point mainly instead of 5 point harnesses. I like the release buckle set up on this one.

[kropscamaro16]

those look good !

[sr71bb]

Did a little research and I found a BETTER seat belt extender. I am using this so that I can get better access to the driver side seat buckle while using the stock 3 point seat belt setup.

Once I installed the SPARCO seat with the HIGHER sides, it more or less hides the buckle below the top of the side of the seat and access was basically a pain in the ass so that's the reason for this part addition. I had already ordered just an extender BUT this one gives you about 7 inches more length so that you dont have to play hide and seek with the buckle all the time.

https://www.seatbeltextenderpros.com...belt-extender/

This one ABOVE works with our cars. I ordered the BLACK belt extender (7 inches).

UPDATE 9/27

Below is a picture of the seven inch seatbelt extender and another pic of it installed. This makes the buckle easily accessible for the stock lap belt setup..

[sr71bb]

Installed this SPARCO seat slider on my SPARCO seat last night and then I took her to the track to test it out. Below are the PICS of the seat position CLOSEST to the steering wheel and one that is the farthest away.

There is roughly 5 inches of travel in the slider so the back of the seat touches the front of the back seat when all the way back. Obviously you are on TOP of the steering wheel when seat is all the way up.

I installed the side mount brackets on the seat directlu on top of the slider with CLASS 8 bolts and NYLOCK nuts. Seat felt VERY firm at the track so mission accomplished.

I will have to make a MINOR adjustment. The seat slider makes the seat sit about an INCH higher in the vehicle. With my helmet on I am NOT touching the roof but it is close. SO.............I will use the TOP hole position on BOTH the right and left sides of each side mount bracket. Each hole position is roughly an inch of spacing. SO I will get back the inch I lost when I installed this slider.

[sr71bb]

OK guys,

TIred of waiting for ARP to get their extended wheel studs in stock. I currently am using 8MM of spacers on the front so I opted to get some DORMAN studs part number 97060.1. These are 2.57 inches or 65.4 MM in length which means they are a little over 7 MM longer than STOCK stud length.

I KNOW these fit. The damn SUMMITT catalog gives you a DORMAN stud part number that DOESNT fit because the shank of the stud is too thick. I had my local brake shop called BRAKES PLUS use their PRESS to install the studs into the hubs. I have seen people do this with a SLEDGE hammer but I was never a fan of that process because you could easily damage the wheel bearing. This basically cost me TWO large PIZZAS and a couple of 32 oz cokes (LOL).

I also use extended length lugnuts.

I knew it was time to replace my original studs because TWO of them basically galled up. I also replaced all of the lugnuts. I would replace the STUDS and LUGNUTS on a yearly basis especially on the FRONT wheels.

Below is PIC of part:

[sr71bb]

OK so WTH is NICO tire you ask??? Well basically they are a used tire dealer that stays open 7 days a week until 8PM .

In tracking my car today I damaged a tire pretty badly and since I am also planning on some track sessions startring at 8:30 on SUNDAY morning I needed somebody AFTER typical working hours to MOUNT one of my spare PIRELLI slicks.

I am sure you guys have these types of used tire dealers around where you are at as well. Typically they are near major interstates or on heavily traveled city streets.

So I went by my storage space around 7PM grabbed a tire and headed to NICO's for a quick install. Cost with mount and balance was 25 dollars but it is always a good idea to tip the installer a 5 spot so that next time you come in they will get right on your job while you wait.

[Nc1le]

Have you been using the 8mm spacer and extended lug nuts without extended lugs up to this point? I got the wild hammer 5mm spacer and am hoping not to have to do extended lugs. I also ordered extended lugnuts

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Nc1le

Have you been using the 8mm spacer and extended lug nuts without extended lugs up to this point? I got the wild hammer 5mm spacer and am hoping not to have to do extended lugs. I also ordered extended lugnuts

YES I have. You should be fine without using the extended studs IF you use the extended lug nuts.

Since I was going to have to change my studs out anyway, I thought I might as well use the slightly longer studs.

The studs on the back wheels are FINE. It's the BRAKE HEAT on the front that caused the studs to fatigue along with two of the lug nuts being damaged.

I am waiting now AT LEAST 30 minutes before I change back to my street wheel/tires after I am done tracking for the day. I also use a breaker bar to LOOSEN the lugnuts as well as just snugging them down with an impact prior to final tightening with a torque wrench at 140 ft lbs

The fatigue point on those extended lug nuts is the little shoulder that goes INSIDE the wheel. If you use your impact wrench like an air hammer then that portion of the lugnut can fracture ESPECIALLY if the lug nut is hot. Also if you try using the impact wrench to break loose the lug nut without using a breaker bar FIRST then THAT can also fatigue the lug nut.

[Eric10905]

A change in topic...

Hey Greg, maybe I missed it in this string, but are you still running stock cooling?

It's getting cooler now (a very relative statement her in TX), but few times when sessions were close to together, I had trouble with trans temps getting to 250-275, or beyond (and then I pit) on the 100F+ days. But haven't spoken to anyone who had done anything different.

Anyone else make any meaningful changes to cooling?

Thanks

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Eric10905

A change in topic...

Hey Greg, maybe I missed it in this string, but are you still running stock cooling?

It's getting cooler now (a very relative statement her in TX), but few times when sessions were close to together, I had trouble with trans temps getting to 250-275, or beyond (and then I pit) on the 100F+ days. But haven't spoken to anyone who had done anything different.

Anyone else make any meaningful changes to cooling?

Thanks

Well Eric I am running stock cooling but I run e85 so I am sure I run somewhat cooler engine temps because of that. On a 25 min session and 100 plus outside temps I see at most around 230 trans temp. If I see it gets much higher than that then I would pit. Yesterday with 85 degree outside temps I was seeing about 215 on the trans temp and 190 water temp

[Eric10905]

Thanks. I'm running E as well, but have had a few higher temp sessions on the trans. Never any issues on engine/oil temps it seems. at least thus far.

[sr71bb]

Havent posted up lately but here is what I planned and am working on currently as far as upgrades/enhancements on this car

I will be redoing all the calipers on this car with a CERAKOTE finish. Earlier in this thread I had the front calipers powdercoated but with track temperatures exceeding 400 degrees at the front calipers, the powdercoating did not really hold up that well. Cerakote is temperature resistant all the way up to 500-550 degrees which I should NEVER see.

Have not decided yet on whether to get a PLATINUM finish or a bright red finish. A metallic bronze finish wouldnt be bad either.

I will be redoing the back half portion of the exhaust which currently has MAGNAFLOW mufflers and exits with SINGLE tip exhaust out the back of the car. I will be going with KOOKS bullet style 3 inch round mufflers located BEFORE the rear end assembly. The MAIN reason for this is I need to move the magnaflow mufflers out of the way so that an AERO piece can be put in place to smooth out the air exiting out the rear of the car. This will result in more downforce.

The SIMPLIEST way to do this is to have exhaust turn down tips immediately AFTER the bullet mufflers but I DO NOT like the look of NO EXHAUST tips exiting out the rear of the bumper. SO, AFTER the bullet mufflers we will reroute the exhaust pipes higher up closer to the bottom of the car so that the area directly behind the bumper can be enclosed with a flat AERO piece.

In an effort to MORE downforce on the FRONT of the car, I will probably install an APR front LOWER splitter. This NO DOUBT will result in more downforce BUT I have my doubts as to whether or not I can realistically use this on a daily driver car basis as it looks to me that there is MAYBE only 2-3 inches of ground clearance on the front once the APR spoiler is installed so WILL SEE>

I will post pics of this once all is installed.