[Camrochris]

This is NOT your fault. I have a V6 with a Tremec 3160. Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plare, and release bearing. I have noticed a LOT of low mileage Camaro's...with 2 owners and 8000 miles on them. A Chevy dealer will NEVER replace a clutch under warranty. Its not covered and they will find a way to blame US. The only good news is that it takes time for the clutch to warm up. Then it slips. If you just got the light once you have a few months to decide what to do, depending on usage and time of year. I have a spare clutch in my trunk (got one for free somehow). The trans is a bi%#h to get out so its about $1800 with parts or $1000 labor if you get them on Rock Auto and have a good shop do it. I did have it Supercharged, so it's a toy car to me. Thank god I have a cheap Kia beater Forte as my daily driver. BTW. Buying a good scanner puts the power in your court. I can clear the entire ECU back to stock and clear the logs. The shop at a dealer has HUGE overhead. They are not there to "help us out". I love the way my Camaro looks like a Cheetah with wheels. But people don't buy V6 Camaro's for $25k because they are loaded. I'm a middle class guy with a house and sh*t to get done. It's a brand new car. 2nd clutch. If one more parts box shows up my wife will have me castrated.
Never again. I would rather have a Kia K5 GT 2.5T 301hp and 295 lb ft. With an automatic and 10/100 warranty. Tired of GM games. I have had 2 Kia Optima Turbo's. No Problems. Ever.

[Camrochris]

You are not alone. My 2020 Riverside beauty V6 needed a clutch 2 months after I bought it at 5500 miles. Now I have a new Rock auto clutch. My new supercharger is only putting out 59hp and 50 lbft, but the "clutch overuse warning" is back.The 3160 Tremec used to be in the Ford GT350. It id rated at 400/400RWHP amd RWLBFT and mine is 50hp below that.
What the heck is wrong with my car?????

[BOSE ZO]

I had a bout with the reduced clutch warning, 3.6, TR-3160, my issue was a loose speed sensor reluctor wheel. Look at the speedo when you see this message… to fix the issue I replaced parts along the output shaft: Spacer, Reluctor, seal, and a Yoke kit… I also installed a washer between the reluctor and the yoke in an attempt to take up the slack… I shock loaded the gearbox and I think the output shaft shifted out by a fraction of a hair and the reluctor started rotating independent of the shaft and kicking out an erratic signal. If the variance is great enough the Reduce clutch message will display….this also screws with engine and cruise control… with that said, I was trying to save the transmission, seems to be working….

[Camrochris]

Originally Posted by NiteBlitz

Keep on getting error message when accelerating fast in 4th and 5th gear. Car cuts acceleration even when pressing the gas pedal. If I release it then press pedal everything goes back to normal. Happens very often when flooring car. Have not tried to replicate in lower gears. Happens with and without rev match on. Read in manual that error code comes up when car notices clutch slipping. But clutch seems fine to me. Didn’t notice any issues. 2019 manual ZL1. 8k miles.
Any suggestions?

Yep. Me too. I was cruisng along in 6th gear in my 2020 LT the other day (2 weeks ago) with my 3.6 and I got tge dreaded TR(Tremec) 3160 "clutch overuse warning). As I upshifted to try to go 1 to 1 with the clutch in 4th...mit went away. It doesnt do ot until the trans fluid gets over 160°.
Anyone else? Please? Is it a fluid issue??

[ctrlz]

There is a TSB on the loose reluctor problem:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=10

[BOSE ZO]

Nice to see the TSB for the TR-3160. Yes this is not a clutch issue at all, it is a physical problem with the reluctor wheel, trust your instincts. I did all the hard work already with this. I replaced the yoke, nut, washer and seal last year and it lasted about 50k till I shocked loaded the trans again lol. The new yoke kit solved the issue originally, and I was just going to replace it all again, but I wanted to see if I could do more. I added an additional washer behind the yoke and in between the reluctor. In theory, the washer will take up the slack… the washer is a bit thicker than what I think is really needed, as it all loosens up so slight, but it will handle the environment it is in for sure.

I’m not convinced the yoke nut washer is the culprit, because when this happens, the nut is still torqued to spec, you can’t turn this thing any tighter than it is, which I can surmise, the yoke when torqued, is bottoming out on land on the shaft. That nut never loosened up. I think when the output shaft gets shock loaded, the shaft will slide outward on axis, away from the inner race of the output bearing that all parts are stacked against, just enough, just a fraction of a hair…excessive enough, the reluctor will spin independently of the output shaft.

A quick fix I did till I got the car in the air would be to shock it in reverse before I headed out. Drive the shaft back in the other way. To conclude, my repair seems to be holding. I’m hoping I never have to go back down there again lol.

Part Numbers:
Reluctor Wheel- 19299727
Spacer- 19300203 (Positioned between Output Bearing Inner Race and Reluctor Wheel)
Output Yoke Kit- 24283204 (Includes yoke, nut, bevel washer, and internal o-ring)
Output Shaft Seal- 89059483

The washer is something I had laying around… it’s from an old W-Body front strut cartridge kit… like a Monroe sensatrac….

[ctrlz]

How about some orange loctite on the smooth surfaces in that stack? I have seen where people use that to lock flat washers down. Obviously need to clean up any oily residue.

[Camrochris]

I know when mine starts to "act up" is when the "lurch factor" arrives. It is harder to drive smoothly, and wants to rock back and forth when in 2nd at low speeds. So, I just give it enough throttle to get going, then shift to second...but the car still wants to rock back and forth, so 3rd gear helps a lot. I am out of problem solving. I know my car has a TR3160 that is malfuntioning. I keep the light off only by running errands that are 20 miles max, and preferably in the evening or AM when it is nice and cool. I am going to change the fluid. Which can make a big difference. I have a spare clutch in the trunk but I would prefer to change the brake/clutch fluid that are shared in the Master Cylinder. I think the fluid has been upgraded to DOT-8 synthetic brake/steering/rope hauler on The Deadliest catch hydraulic "block" fluid; or for a Bobcat or small Backhoe. I dunno. I do know that clean fluid makes a big difference.

[BOSE ZO]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

How about some orange loctite on the smooth surfaces in that stack? I have seen where people use that to lock flat washers down. Obviously need to clean up any oily residue.

I devised a number of options.

#1, Washer- To take up the slack. Chose this course of action.

#2, Adhesive- Opted against, as the output shaft can be violent in action,
Could cause the adhesive to let go and particulate to be released throughout the transmission, could also potentially throw the shaft out of balance.

#3, Machined/Knurled faces, opted against as that would cause an uneven mating surface if I didn’t do it right…..

I have a feeling GM will release another TSB on this in the future….

[Camrochris]

Found this out:
Master cylinder is shared with TR6060 and TR3160 so being hard on the brakes makes trans fluid temp go up. So, if you are having some back road fun, then get on the highway and engage 4-5-6 the fluid is so hot that the torque makes the clutch slip.
I bet after the car cools off it will be fine. Thd car is telling you to lay off...or there is a real problem. I can tell you that I have a supercharger installed on my V6. I checked the torque anf horsepower limots and they all told be the clutch will hold the power; but my car is a base LT 3.6 TR3160. I am a little pissed about it. We buy these cars for the speed and thr looks. Some wait their whole lives to get away from the minivan to SUV to sedan to sport sedan then to Camaro now that my kids are grown.
But I wouldnt trust my Camaro to srive 400 miles to Buffalo or 400 miles to just north of Myrtle Beach.No way.
After I vleared a condensation code and randcs system check, it has not returned. But I drive it nice and easy now except for an occssional pull to get around a pack of trucks.
-cski

[Camrochris]

Originally Posted by BOSE ZO

Nice to see the TSB for the TR-3160. Yes this is not a clutch issue at all, it is a physical problem with the reluctor wheel, trust your instincts. I did all the hard work already with this. I replaced the yoke, nut, washer and seal last year and it lasted about 50k till I shocked loaded the trans again lol. The new yoke kit solved the issue originally, and I was just going to replace it all again, but I wanted to see if I could do more. I added an additional washer behind the yoke and in between the reluctor. In theory, the washer will take up the slack… the washer is a bit thicker than what I think is really needed, as it all loosens up so slight, but it will handle the environment it is in for sure.

I’m not convinced the yoke nut washer is the culprit, because when this happens, the nut is still torqued to spec, you can’t turn this thing any tighter than it is, which I can surmise, the yoke when torqued, is bottoming out on land on the shaft. That nut never loosened up. I think when the output shaft gets shock loaded, the shaft will slide outward on axis, away from the inner race of the output bearing that all parts are stacked against, just enough, just a fraction of a hair…excessive enough, the reluctor will spin independently of the output shaft.

A quick fix I did till I got the car in the air would be to shock it in reverse before I headed out. Drive the shaft back in the other way. To conclude, my repair seems to be holding. I’m hoping I never have to go back down there again lol.

Part Numbers:
Reluctor Wheel- 19299727
Spacer- 19300203 (Positioned between Output Bearing Inner Race and Reluctor Wheel)
Output Yoke Kit- 24283204 (Includes yoke, nut, bevel washer, and internal o-ring)
Output Shaft Seal- 89059483

The washer is something I had laying around… it’s from an old W-Body front strut cartridge kit… like a Monroe sensatrac….

Hey can you send the TSB to cski12894@gmail.com
cskalski@cox.net
703-568-3049 text mobile

God I wish I did but I have no idea what your talking about. It seems to patch the yoke and I put shaft so to be a sort of balance between the yoke znd shaft.
PS. the yoke a hole.
The shaft more the male end.
Still have no idea if GM will fix it free.
I am taking it to Aamco with the TSB. Guy has 35 yrs experience. Can't wait to fix it.

[Camrochris]

Originally Posted by BOSE ZO

Nice to see the TSB for the TR-3160. Yes this is not a clutch issue at all, it is a physical problem with the reluctor wheel, trust your instincts. I did all the hard work already with this. I replaced the yoke, nut, washer and seal last year and it lasted about 50k till I shocked loaded the trans again lol. The new yoke kit solved the issue originally, and I was just going to replace it all again, but I wanted to see if I could do more. I
added an additional washer behind the yoke and in between the reluctor. In theory, the washer will take up the slack… the washer is a bit thicker than what I think is really needed, as it all loosens up so slight, but it will handle the environment it is in for sure.

I’m not convinced the yoke nut washer is the culprit, because when this happens, the nut is still torqued to spec, you can’t turn this thing any tighter than it is, which I can surmise, the yoke when torqued, is bottoming out on land on the shaft. That nut never loosened up. I think when the output shaft gets shock loaded, the shaft will slide outward on axis, away from the inner race of the output bearing that all parts are stacked against, just enough, just a fraction of a hair…excessive enough, the reluctor will spin independently of the output shaft.

A quick fix I did till I got the car in the air would be to shock it in reverse before I headed out. Drive the shaft back in the other way. To conclude, my repair seems to be holding. I’m hoping I never have to go back down there again lol.

Part Numbers:
Reluctor Wheel- 19299727
Spacer- 19300203 (Positioned between Output Bearing Inner Race and Reluctor Wheel)
Output Yoke Kit- 24283204 (Includes yoke, nut, bevel washer, and internal o-ring)
Output Shaft Seal- 89059483

The washer is something I had laying around… it’s from an old W-Body front strut cartridge kit… like a Monroe sensatrac….

Originally Posted by BOSE ZO

I devised a number of options.

#1, Washer- To take up the slack. Chose this course of action.

#2, Adhesive- Opted against, as the output shaft can be violent in action,
Could cause the adhesive to let go and particulate to be released throughout the transmission, could also potentially throw the shaft out of balance.

#3, Machined/Knurled faces, opted against as that would cause an uneven mating surface if I didn’t do it right…..

I have a feeling GM will release another TSB on this in the future….

The TSB seems to be for an AUTOMATIC TRANS. What does the relucter gear do on the 3160 Tremec 6 speed manual? Can anyone tell me in plain English why my 3.6 (supercharged but not in use when trans problems occur). I just saw on Amazon the relu tor gear is for an Automatic. Also would GM or Aamco have to completely disassemble the entire transmission in order to fix this yoke/input shzft problem. Maybe I just don't understand. I have to be able to explain what is wrong in layman's terms to cletus or whoever my "service writer" or tech is ar GM or Aamco. (I haven't decided who to take it to yet).
I just closed on a new cash out loan. If you had $5000 to spend on your trans and no warranty who would you take your baby (Camaro) to? How do I explain what is wrong so the tech understands? Should I just get a rebuilt trans? I only have so much patience. I could trade this SHI*%OX IN BUT I DONT BELIEVE IN MAKING MY PROBLEM SOMEONE ELSES. But I AM thinking about it.

[Camrochris]

Originally Posted by Camrochris

The TSB seems to be for an AUTOMATIC TRANS. What does the relucter gear do on the 3160 Tremec 6 speed manual? Can anyone tell me in plain English why my 3.6 (supercharged but not in use when trans problems occur). I just saw on Amazon the relu tor gear is for an Automatic. Also would GM or Aamco have to completely disassemble the entire transmission in order to fix this yoke/input shzft problem. Maybe I just don't understand. I have to be able to explain what is wrong in layman's terms to cletus or whoever my "service writer" or tech is ar GM or Aamco. (I haven't decided who to take it to yet).
I just closed on a new cash out loan. If you had $5000 to spend on your trans and no warranty who would you take your baby (Camaro) to? How do I explain what is wrong so the tech understands? Should I just get a rebuilt trans? I only have so much patience. I could trade this SHI*%OX IN BUT I DONT BELIEVE IN MAKING MY PROBLEM SOMEONE ELSES. But I AM thinking about it.

What is "shock loading"? 😲 Do you know that I would KILL for my 6 speed Tremec TR-3160 to last 50,000 miles. Other than that, I don't know what a reducter? Relucter? Gear is...nor do I understand what to tell is wrong with my 6 speed manual. I'm sorry; but I am not gifted in. "Transmission speak".
Please tell me what I should sY to my Aamco rep.

[ctrlz]

The reluctor is the second part from the left in the first photo in this post:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=48

the splines on the outside send an electrical signal to the computer that translates to vehicle speed. Notice how the inside of the reluctor is smooth. That's why it can slip. For this to work properly, the reluctor has to be clamped tight, otherwise the shaft on which the part is mounted (the output shaft) can spin faster than the reluctor (i.e. the reluctor slips). The car detects this as clutch slip when it's really a loose reluctor.

"Shock loading" is like "popping the clutch." The car goes from standstill to speed in a short time. This quick change makes it easier for the reluctor to slip. Also repeated shock loads can make a reluctor keep getting looser.

What your transmission guy should do is remove the speed sensor and try to move the reluctor, as described here:
https://gm-techlink.com/?p=13556

This post shows where the speed sensor attaches to the transmission:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=10