[Peyton7392]

So I’m about a week into owning my first camaro, coming from a mustang. Amazing car, but I’ve got a problem. I’m getting a service stabilitrak, service rear axle, and “service power steering, drive with care”. It doesn’t always come on, but man when it doe, it doesn’t stop. I can’t even scroll though the menu to see my speed or mpg without it popping up. Power steering beeps when it comes on, etc.. anyways. I changed the battery, didn’t fix it. Checked the harness near the headers, it’s fine. Checked the harness above my driver rear tire, wasn’t rubbed through or anything as I saw, checked two grounds under the hood and they were tight. So, where do I go from here? Here’s 5 codes I’m getting if that’ll help anyone and thanks in advance!

The car has 46k miles, and I bought it bone stock with 45,500 miles. I don’t know the history of the car so it may have been modded.

[WhyUMad1LE]

Does it have any aftermarket electronics? Could be a weak alternator.

[Peyton7392]

Originally Posted by WhyUMad1LE

Does it have any aftermarket electronics? Could be a weak alternator.

As far as I know it does not. But is there a way I can test the alternator without taking it off?

[ctrlz]

I think all these codes mean a module is not reliably communicating with the BCM. It seems to be coming up that your ABS module isn't talking to other stuff.

[Peyton7392]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

I think all these codes mean a module is not reliably communicating with the BCM. It seems to be coming up that your ABS module isn't talking to other stuff.

I thought that too. I just think it’s weird how my abs light isn’t on and abs isn’t giving me any problems.

[DaveC113]

I just replaced my EBCM and these modules are all co-dependent on one another to the point it doesn't make any sense. I installed a '19 unit in my '18 and now a rear-view camera setting menu is present in my controls, this wasn't even available on '18MY cars. So I'd be cautious in interpreting the errors, it may not be conventionally logical.

You may have an issue with either low voltage, wiring, a bad module or a bad sensor, the car is so complicated I would make sure to consult the service manual, also maybe the dealer would be able to help if you called? Good luck!

[arpad_m]

My bet is on the battery, if it's still the original, it is now 4-5 years old and they tend to grow weak by this point. Have it load tested and, if necessary, replaced.

[Gunkk]

U codes are CAN bus communication errors. Can be a harness problem, despite the checks already done. Aftermarket OBD2 gauges have done this. And bad modules, of course.

[Peyton7392]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

U codes are CAN bus communication errors. Can be a harness problem, despite the checks already done. Aftermarket OBD2 gauges have done this. And bad modules, of course.

So what module do you think would be bad?

[Peyton7392]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

My bet is on the battery, if it's still the original, it is now 4-5 years old and they tend to grow weak by this point. Have it load tested and, if necessary, replaced.

Put a new battery in and didn’t do anything. I bought the car with an interstate battery which isn’t what it comes with from the factory. Bad alternator maybe? I noticed on my way to work today, on the interstate I didn’t have any lights for 10-15min, but I did a small pull and changed lanes and it made service stabilitrak flash, no lights again after I let off and went back to cruise.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Peyton7392

Bad alternator maybe? I noticed on my way to work today, on the interstate I didn’t have any lights for 10-15min, but I did a small pull and changed lanes and it made service stabilitrak flash, no lights again after I let off and went back to cruise.

Bad alternator is a possibility, particularly if you have a bad diode and AC is going out. This can be tricky to detect, but maybe modern all-in-one alternator testers pick this up. If there is a bad diode you can get unregulated voltage spikes at higher rpm's.

[Peyton7392]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Bad alternator is a possibility, particularly if you have a bad diode and AC is going out. This can be tricky to detect, but maybe modern all-in-one alternator testers pick this up. If there is a bad diode you can get unregulated voltage spikes at higher rpm's.

Well I’ve noticed. If I’m at a dead stop, it won’t come on. But the moment I start moving till go off. If I’m on the highway with cruise control, doesn’t come on. Only comes on if I accelerate, turn hard, brake hard, etc. then sometimes it’ll just constantly flash at me for no reason. It’s hit or miss, not sure if that helps pinpoint it or not.