[sonnydurden]

So it appears I have a warped rotor at 31,000 miles on my ‘16 Camaro SS. When I brake at 70 plus strong vibration on the driver’s side. It’s weird because I have plenty of pad left. Don’t think this is under warranty. Perplexed because I drove my ‘12 Camaro SS like maniac that robbed a bank... not one issue. Practically babied this SS.. I guess I will get a slotted/drilled rotor. Any suggestions???

[Gunkk]

#1 cause of warped rotors: not torquing the lugs by hand with a torque wrench.

Don't let anyone use an air wrench on your car, ever.

[6spdhyperblue]

Pad material on the rotor? Cold water on the hot rotors? Car Wash?

[gotroost]

Parking brake on hot rotors?

[sonnydurden]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

#1 cause of warped rotors: not torquing the lugs by hand with a torque wrench.

Don't let anyone use an air wrench on your car, ever.

Yeah I always make sure they are torqued with the wrench. Have used an air gun to loosen lug nuts though..

[Wierd Harold]

If you feel it in the steering wheel it's the fronts .should be warranty .ask to be replaced .if machined they will warp again . probably soft material in rotor

[Gunmetalmissle]

A number of years ago I adjusted my driving slightly based on this article from stoptech.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

I have not had warped rotors since. Drilled and slotted is not going to address the underlying cause or prevent it from happening again.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by Gunmetalmissle

A number of years ago I adjusted my driving slightly based on this article from stoptech.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

I have not had warped rotors since. Drilled and slotted is not going to address the underlying cause or prevent it from happening again.

Thay article is truth. Totally agree!

One of the main things to pull from that article is ROTORS DONT WARP...

Mainly its just uneven pad material being deposited.

If youre driving hard and then come to a stop and keep the brakes on, that's ususlly where most avg drivers get the uneven deposits from.

A drilled rotor has the potential to make it worse. Rotors are nothing more than a heatsink. So drilling a rotor removes more material and will allow yhe rotor to over heat quicker.

In comparison to 5th gen camaro rotors, they run a 14 inch rotor vs current ss rotors which are only 13.6 in front. The newer cars are lighter, but reach higher speeds quicker thus may probably brake more often.

If you drove you last car hard, even though you say you baby this car, chances are you probably still drive relatively hard. I doubt anyone here is driving a camaro like they are driving mrs daisy...

[sonnydurden]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

Thay article is truth. Totally agree!

One of the main things to pull from that article is ROTORS DONT WARP...

Mainly its just uneven pad material being deposited.

If youre driving hard and then come to a stop and keep the brakes on, that's ususlly where most avg drivers get the uneven deposits from.

A drilled rotor has the potential to make it worse. Rotors are nothing more than a heatsink. So drilling a rotor removes more material and will allow yhe rotor to over heat quicker.

In comparison to 5th gen camaro rotors, they run a 14 inch rotor vs current ss rotors which are only 13.6 in front. The newer cars are lighter, but reach higher speeds quicker thus may probably brake more often.

If you drove you last car hard, even though you say you baby this car, chances are you probably still drive relatively hard. I doubt anyone here is driving a camaro like they are driving mrs daisy...

My engine was replaced at around 3000 miles on the ‘16. This LT1 never felt as durable as my L99. So I’ve been less aggressive than my last SS. This SS is a manual and if I can I break down all my gears almost to a stop. I try to stay off my brakes as much as possible.

[sonnydurden]

Originally Posted by Gunmetalmissle

A number of years ago I adjusted my driving slightly based on this article from stoptech.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

I have not had warped rotors since. Drilled and slotted is not going to address the underlying cause or prevent it from happening again.

Good read!! Thanks

[sonnydurden]

Originally Posted by Wierd Harold

If you feel it in the steering wheel it's the fronts .should be warranty .ask to be replaced .if machined they will warp again . probably soft material in rotor

I will take it to the dealer and see what they say...

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by sonnydurden

My engine was replaced at around 3000 miles on the ‘16. This LT1 never felt as durable as my L99. So I’ve been less aggressive than my last SS. This SS is a manual and if I can I break down all my gears almost to a stop. I try to stay off my brakes as much as possible.

Understandable, however as said you are probably driving harder than you realize.

NOT Saying you are beating it to death, but when you baby a car makes it sound like you are doing 10mph UNDER the speed limit at all times and driving it like a 5 million dollar original 1920's car that thered only 1 of in existence.

Reality is, you are probably on it here and there. Nothing wrong with that, because thats what its meant for.

As said like the article pointed out. Its prob the uneven pad material. I just passed 50k, and have the 4 pistons and 13.6 rotors as well. They still have the original pads, a few drag track days about 8 autox days and 1 track day. Its daily driven 60 miles per day, and weekwed road trips.

Ive only had the pad deposit issue once on the 6th gen, so it can be remedied by doing the bedding the pads and seasoning the rotors procedure as long as you dont have crazy deposits. Some highway time with 70 to 30mph slow downs 2-3 times and about 2 miles to cool off in between is what i did. Leanred that trick when using wilwoods on the 5th gen.

[sonnydurden]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

Understandable, however as said you are probably driving harder than you realize.

NOT Saying you are beating it to death, but when you baby a car makes it sound like you are doing 10mph UNDER the speed limit at all times and driving it like a 5 million dollar original 1920's car that thered only 1 of in existence.

Reality is, you are probably on it here and there. Nothing wrong with that, because thats what its meant for.

As said like the article pointed out. Its prob the uneven pad material. I just passed 50k, and have the 4 pistons and 13.6 rotors as well. They still have the original pads, a few drag track days about 8 autox days and 1 track day. Its daily driven 60 miles per day, and weekwed road trips.

Ive only had the pad deposit issue once on the 6th gen, so it can be remedied by doing the bedding the pads and seasoning the rotors procedure as long as you dont have crazy deposits. Some highway time with 70 to 30mph slow downs 2-3 times and about 2 miles to cool off in between is what i did. Leanred that trick when using wilwoods on the 5th gen.

Agreed.. the article is awesome. Definitely pointed out everything I “thought” I knew about brakes. Thanks for the input my friend

[TECHTURTLE]

I'm a little late here but my car had the same problem at only 9k miles. Dealer replaced all four rotors and pads. Almost 20k on her now with no problems.