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Old 04-10-2018, 10:02 AM   #85
mexi
 
Drives: 2017 ZL1
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On drag radials with an A10 my car bogged.
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Old 04-10-2018, 04:07 PM   #86
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No surprise. It is what GM engineered into the design.
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Old 12-15-2018, 03:49 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrkPhx View Post
Serious question and it may have been answered in one of the posts: Can't you just completely turn off TC and Stabiltrak for better clutch control of the launch? I know it's apples to oranges, but in the 5th gen ZL1, the launch control is way too intrusive even with stock hp and tires. On the street I need to slip the clutch for the best launch and 0-60, but at the track slipping it will just bog, so you have to side step the clutch (not dump it) and use the gas pedal to control it.
What do you mean side step the clutch not dump it? Those terms are synonymous to me.

Trying to learn not attack.

Thanks!
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Old 12-15-2018, 04:15 PM   #88
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Quote:
PTM 1-4 is tuned for 'street surfaces' (unprepped). PTM5 is for drag strip 'high traction'. There is a noticeable difference between these two settings.
Convertibles have a more limited menu of settings. Does anyone know the setting(s) to get PTM 5 like performance from a Vert?

I quoted Al but am not expecting him to be monitoring and replying to this old thread :-)

TIA!
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Old 12-18-2018, 03:13 AM   #89
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Well. Iím pretty sure I am ordering a ZL1 today or in the next 48 hours.
My heart was set on a 1LE. Reading about this bog issue kind of irks me as I will take it down the strip.
Now Iíve got to make a decision on whether to get the A10 ZL1 or stick with my original plan of the 1LE.
Either way I will hit the strip and road course.
But this is seriously a tough decision
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Old 12-18-2018, 03:16 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottyz View Post
Well. Iím pretty sure I am ordering a ZL1 today or in the next 48 hours.
My heart was set on a 1LE. Reading about this bog issue kind of irks me as I will take it down the strip.
Now Iíve got to make a decision on whether to get the A10 ZL1 or stick with my original plan of the 1LE.
Either way I will hit the strip and road course.
But this is seriously a tough decision
Just look at the time I posted this. I have seriously been up all night debating this. And this hasnít been the first night.
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Old 12-18-2018, 06:09 AM   #91
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Get an M6, 1LE or not. I’ve run a 1.7 60’ on DRs and getting better. The M6 has a feature called No Lift Shift which is the greatest thing since the clutch. And since you will be road racing and drag racing (like I am), the M6 let’s you avoid the tough decision of buying a stall converter to go fast on the strip but will end road racing for you.

The bogs can be frustrating but you can still run a high 11 stock, dominate on the street and track, and have the joy of driving a manual than the world’s best auto will never compare to. The community is getting better about overcoming the bog and we’re nearly there. You won’t regret it.
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Old 12-18-2018, 06:11 AM   #92
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Also see people complaining (not in the same #s) pfvthe bog with the A10
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Old 06-22-2019, 12:20 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost or bust View Post
Sorry, but not buying the answer. I want the ability to launch with NO nannies/electronics, etc. ďOld schoolĒ style. I (we) know how to drive a stick, but the electronics are pulling power. I would happily pay any tuner listening who can defeat the torque control so I can then enjoy my car. Yes- I am willing to forgo my warranty to do it, too. My 2 cents. I paid for a quick car, but did not get one. Make it right, Al.
My buddy who is a tuner fixed that bog issue on my car. send him a pm if you need your car tuned lt1350z.
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Old 06-22-2019, 02:29 PM   #94
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Once you decide to be tuned, getting the bog out is no mystery. I could could do it for free. Paying more than $350 for a remote tune is a ripoff
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:40 AM   #95
EDFHOBBIES
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Mine is GOOOOOONNNNNNNEEEEEE..

I tried the Mamo TB and 3 Cold Air Kits.. all of which help to some extent on my stock zl1 or when I did pulley and headers.. However is always creeped back or wasn't totally gone!

So here is a little story..

I took the car back to Matt Sorians or MS Tuning after I did the 2650, LPE cam, LPE pump, DSX pump, Ported heads, and plus 30 injector.. to fix the issue when you make 300 to the wheels over the factory wheel hp the issue is even worse..

He contacted HPtuners to do his magic with my vin.. then while waiting for a file Greg Kong contacted me about porting the blower.. so I had that done at the same time.

I got the car back I could now dump the clutch anywhere but I still had issues down low on normal take offs I think this was more to the 112mm TB and 5 inch intake so went over 3 days ago on Saturday he took it for a drive and came back 20 min. later and its flawless now..

Let clutch out no pedal (no bog)
let clutch out with pedal (no bog)
Pedal at any rpm then release clutch however your want what ever rpm you want (no bog)
dry pavement with grippy cement ( no Bog)
wet pavement (no bog)
asphalt dry or wet no bog a lot of tire spin lol but (no BOG)

I've driven Sticks since I was 13... fiat X19, Ferrari Mondial, Twin turbo delorean, 96 Z28, 97 Mustang GT, 2010 SS, 2016 SS and 2017 Zl1.

Finally the car drive like it should!

FYI kong porting is incredible.. for instance.. look at these blower pulleys..

LT4 OEM 7.7 lower 2.5 upper 550 rwhp 1.7L
LT4 OEM 9.2 lower 2.5 upper 650 rwhp 1.7L with supporting mods
LT4 Eforce 2650 Lower 9.2 upper 3.0 700 2.6L rwhp with supporting mods
LT4 Eforce 2650 Lower 9.2 upper 3.0 893 rwhp with supporting mods with the addition of heads, cam, TB, 5 inch intake, LPE pump, DSX pump, 30 over inj, and all e85
LT4 Eforce with above mods and porting same power but 8.3 lower and 3.5 upper.

porting the blower saved me some serious rpm!


Anyhow the BOG is Gone!
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Old 12-04-2021, 11:39 AM   #96
myMUSICveins
 
Drives: 2022 ZL1
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Quote:
Also, shifting before 60 is worth about .2 seconds on the 0-60 time but does not impact ľ mile. Donít forget, the ZL1 will do 0-63 mph in first gear, to give you those 0.2 seconds back if you are just doing 0-60ís.
Did I read this correct that heís saying to get the best 0-60 we are supposed to shift before 60? Just curious, but it would seem staying in 1st until hitting 60 would be more efficient time wise than taking time to shift early into 2nd to then hit 60
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Old 12-04-2021, 02:26 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myMUSICveins View Post
Did I read this correct that he’s saying to get the best 0-60 we are supposed to shift before 60? Just curious, but it would seem staying in 1st until hitting 60 would be more efficient time wise than taking time to shift early into 2nd to then hit 60
Pretty sure he meant it the other way around, ie shifting 1->2 before 60 costs you 0.2s in the 0-60, quarter mile is unaffected because the shift will have to be performed anyway, and you "get it back" when doing 0-60 on the Z because it's programmed to shift at >60 mph.
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