[gpskinzhut]

Just bought a '17 (4/17) with 14k on it and this is my number one sweat issue. One thing I haven't seen yet is a DIY walkthrough of the replacement procedure. I'd be tempted to put it up on jacks in the garage and replace it proactively before we get to spring just as a precaution and for peace of mind. I have some marathon trips I'd like to make in it this summer.

[Mark R]

Originally Posted by Alex.ZL1

Count me in. Happened today at 12,898 miles. Built in aug 17 sold as a 2018 unit.

Bummer. Let us know how the fix goes.

[Mark R]

Originally Posted by gpskinzhut

Just bought a '17 (4/17) with 14k on it and this is my number one sweat issue. One thing I haven't seen yet is a DIY walkthrough of the replacement procedure. I'd be tempted to put it up on jacks in the garage and replace it proactively before we get to spring just as a precaution and for peace of mind. I have some marathon trips I'd like to make in it this summer.

Your car is right in the failure sweet spot in terms of build date and mileage. The pump is at the front of the crank, so the front of the engine has to be taken apart. The dealer charged me $3200 in labor to put in the Katech pump for me.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by gpskinzhut

Just bought a '17 (4/17) with 14k on it and this is my number one sweat issue. One thing I haven't seen yet is a DIY walkthrough of the replacement procedure. I'd be tempted to put it up on jacks in the garage and replace it proactively before we get to spring just as a precaution and for peace of mind. I have some marathon trips I'd like to make in it this summer.

Originally Posted by Mark R

Your car is right in the failure sweet spot in terms of build date and mileage. The pump is at the front of the crank, so the front of the engine has to be taken apart. The dealer charged me $3200 in labor to put in the Katech pump for me.

Just a thought, but with this much cost in labor and disassembly I'd add some extra power, too.

[Wuiquen]

Can someone share some insight into what they do when they replaced the oil pump? Meaning what else is replaced? Do they have to flush the coolant out and then refill? I suppose new oil and oil filter is needed. What else is also changed? Does the SC need to be removed?

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

[Puddin]

Originally Posted by gpskinzhut

Just bought a '17 (4/17) with 14k on it and this is my number one sweat issue. One thing I haven't seen yet is a DIY walkthrough of the replacement procedure. I'd be tempted to put it up on jacks in the garage and replace it proactively before we get to spring just as a precaution and for peace of mind. I have some marathon trips I'd like to make in it this summer.

You're looking at a pretty hefty teardown just to change it. It would probably suck trying it on jack stands.

[gpskinzhut]

Originally Posted by Puddin

You're looking at a pretty hefty teardown just to change it. It would probably suck trying it on jack stands.

There's a lot of suck one can tolerate to save $3k

[Owl3]

Originally Posted by gpskinzhut

There's a lot of suck one can tolerate to save $3k

If you google up a cam change you can see the prep work you will need to do. You will need to lift the entire engine up enough to remove the oil pan to get the pump out. That's why many of the shops just drop the engine out.

I'm in the process of pulling my engine out for a total refresh prior to a major HP increase, and I can see why the shops charge $3K, which is somewhere around 30 hours for labor.

In my case I do all my own work to take the edge off my 80-hour work weeks and am not too worried about how long it takes.

YMMV

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by Puddin

You're looking at a pretty hefty teardown just to change it. It would probably suck trying it on jack stands.

It's not too bad on jackstands, but it is a fairly involved job. I seem to recall member Oldman doing a writeup several years ago.

[gpskinzhut]

Originally Posted by Owl3

If you google up a cam change you can see the prep work you will need to do. You will need to lift the entire engine up enough to remove the oil pan to get the pump out. That's why many of the shops just drop the engine out.

I'm in the process of pulling my engine out for a total refresh prior to a major HP increase, and I can see why the shops charge $3K, which is somewhere around 30 hours for labor.

In my case I do all my own work to take the edge off my 80-hour work weeks and am not too worried about how long it takes.

YMMV

Oh I'm sure. Have some time before spring so there wouldn't be any problems with it sitting for a spell. I'll have to do some digging. It's got a burning oil smell to it too. On my SS, the pan bolts were loosened up so I have to put it up and check that too.

[carguy55]

So is there a certain build date where they fixed this problem? Is it worse on the ZL1 than others?
I have 2018 SS build date 9/17. 64 track days and no issues (knock on wood)

[pauly1119]

Originally Posted by carguy55

So is there a certain build date where they fixed this problem? Is it worse on the ZL1 than others?
I have 2018 SS build date 9/17. 64 track days and no issues (knock on wood)

It seems like the earlier build dates are the ones involved for the most part, cars built in 2017 but I think its a relatively low number of cars. My car was built 6/25/18 but I don't think anyone knows for sure.

[SteveV]

I would like to point out that when my dealership replaced my pump under warranty, they didn't drop the engine out

It has been 6 months now, but the tech did let me back in the shop to see the damage. I remember it was on a lift and they had removed the radiator and fan assembly for more room. So, they would have had to refill coolant. They dropped the oil pan because he replaced all of the main bearings because he saw some scoring on 1 bearing.

But again, they didn't drop the engine out. I have some pictures somewhere. When I find them, I will post them.

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

You would think for $3500 they took it apart and a lot more