Changed my DRLs to LED, but now I get a warning message..

[dimster]

So today I was bored to death and decided I should change the stock bulbs in the fog lights for some P13W LEDs I bought for the car over a week ago.
After some cussing and bending (myself) issues, the finally fit and work.

They light up with the headlights when I unlock the car. When I start the car though, I get a warning message "Check Left Daytime Running Lamp" and "Check Right Daytime Running Lamp". I presume this is because of the Canbus system.

Now It's pretty dark outside so the lights obviously won't light up in automatic mode, but will they still work when the car is running even though I get the message?
Anyone else had this on their car? It's a 2012 Camaro 2SS 45th anniversary EU-model.

Thanks in advance guys

[Powhusku]

What brand our yours? Mine are AAC and I haven't had any issues with them (yet).

[midnighter]

Do you have the DRL to fog light harness? I got LEDs too and have not installed them.

[dimster]

Mine aren't AAC lamps, I think. They are from a webshop that states it's for the Camaro 2010+. I don't have the DRL to fog light harness either. The car is bone stock, just changed the lamps.

Could it be that the 2012 has a Canbus system overlooking the DRLs?

Edit: These are the lamps I bought http://www.stylingwebben.se/products...a-18x-smds-12v

[FL1CK]

Keep in mind the EU edition might be slightly different than the US edition...

[jmaynard]

They are not drawing enough power which is setting off the sensor to tell the computer that they are not working. You might need to install load resistors to trick the computer. (yes, it sucks)

[dimster]

Originally Posted by jmaynard

They are not drawing enough power which is setting off the sensor to tell the computer that they are not working. You might need to install load resistors to trick the computer. (yes, it sucks)

Now that sucks, and that actually means cutting the wire and connecting a resistor in series with the lamp.
BUT will the lamps stay on even if I get this message and don't do anything about it? Or will the computer cut the power completely?

There must be a light sensitive sensor inside the car that triggers the headlights when it gets too dark, anyone know where it's located?

EDIT: I just RTFM and the sensor is on top of the instrument panel . It must be in the same housing as the blinking red light for when the alarm is armed.

[wylde1]

I had to install load resistors because I put in LED's for my turn signals and was getting a warning every time I hit the blinker. I'll draw you a diagram when I get a chance, but you don't need to put the load resister in line, you just bridge it from the power to the ground of that light. so that the bulb and the resistor are running in parallel. That way they share load evenly. If you put the resistor in series, you might drain the power before it get to the light (not likely with LED's but that's the theory) and you don't need to completely cut the harness. you can just slide the ends of the resistor into the back of the pigtail and tape it in place if you want.

I just used small 10 ohm, 10W power resistors I found at Radio Shack and haven't seen an error message since.

To answer your other question, yes your lights will stay on no matter what, you'll just keep getting an annoying error/fault code.

[wylde1]

Here's the resistor I used http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062291

just bend and push the ends into the back of the connector on the factory harness until it makes contact with the pin. Then tape it in place. One end in the - and one in the + will make it paralell to the light bulb, and you're in business.

for a bit more permanent solution you can strip a bit of the wire on each side, and solder and heat shrink it, but if you want to leave your factory harness unmolested just plug it in and tape it. It will be perfectly fine that way too.

[dimster]

Originally Posted by wylde1

I had to install load resistors because I put in LED's for my turn signals and was getting a warning every time I hit the blinker. I'll draw you a diagram when I get a chance, but you don't need to put the load resister in line, you just bridge it from the power to the ground of that light. so that the bulb and the resistor are running in parallel. That way they share load evenly. If you put the resistor in series, you might drain the power before it get to the light (not likely with LED's but that's the theory) and you don't need to completely cut the harness. you can just slide the ends of the resistor into the back of the pigtail and tape it in place if you want.

I just used small 10 ohm, 10W power resistors I found at Radio Shack and haven't seen an error message since.

To answer your other question, yes your lights will stay on no matter what, you'll just keep getting an annoying error/fault code.

Thanks man, I really appreciate your help. That sounds like a great solution.
This brings me to my second question. Dissipating 10W from a comparatively small surface lika a resistor makes the resistor quite hot when the lights are constantly on.
For indicators I imagine it won't be a problem, since the just blink for a couple of seconds, but what about DRLs that are on for half an hour maybe?
Is it possible for the heat from the resistor to damage the power wires that connect to the lamp? Or am I mistaken?

Thank you again for your help, I really appreciate it

[wylde1]

Originally Posted by dimster

Thanks man, I really appreciate your help. That sounds like a great solution.
This brings me to my second question. Dissipating 10W from a comparatively small surface lika a resistor makes the resistor quite hot when the lights are constantly on.
For indicators I imagine it won't be a problem, since the just blink for a couple of seconds, but what about DRLs that are on for half an hour maybe?
Is it possible for the heat from the resistor to damage the power wires that connect to the lamp? Or am I mistaken?

Thank you again for your help, I really appreciate it

That's a valid concern. I can't say I know for sure how they would react there because like you said, I'm using them for a different circuit. Although I'm using it on the signals as well as the park/running lights now which are on as long as the car is running. And they seem to be ok, I have not seen them get too hot yet. I have used the 10W resistors in some home made power supplies though drawing the full 10W and they get hot, but not that bad.

You could by all means look around for a smaller wattage resistor, maybe a 2 or 5W? I just happend on these 10W ones for very cheap and thought I'd give them a shot. There are definitely other types available, I'm just not sure exactly how much load is needed to trick the computer. Although you could probably look up the wattage of the stock bulb and that would give you an idea of what the computer is looking for in a load.

Another thing to consider is that the fog lights are down in the lower fascia and there is a grill opening. There will likely be lots of air flow down there to keep things cool. When you plug the resistor into the back, just bend the wires so that the resisitor itself isn't resting on the harness and you won't risk burning any wires.

Going from the P13W part number though, I'm guessing the stock bulbs are about 13W, so a 10W resistor would put you right on the money with LED's in there as well.

[dimster]

Originally Posted by wylde1

That's a valid concern. I can't say I know for sure how they would react there because like you said, I'm using them for a different circuit. Although I'm using it on the signals as well as the park/running lights now which are on as long as the car is running. And they seem to be ok, I have not seen them get too hot yet. I have used the 10W resistors in some home made power supplies though drawing the full 10W and they get hot, but not that bad.

You could by all means look around for a smaller wattage resistor, maybe a 2 or 5W? I just happend on these 10W ones for very cheap and thought I'd give them a shot. There are definitely other types available, I'm just not sure exactly how much load is needed to trick the computer. Although you could probably look up the wattage of the stock bulb and that would give you an idea of what the computer is looking for in a load.

Another thing to consider is that the fog lights are down in the lower fascia and there is a grill opening. There will likely be lots of air flow down there to keep things cool. When you plug the resistor into the back, just bend the wires so that the resisitor itself isn't resting on the harness and you won't risk burning any wires.

Going from the P13W part number though, I'm guessing the stock bulbs are about 13W, so a 10W resistor would put you right on the money with LED's in there as well.

Thanks a million, you are right, the stock bulbs are 13W. I guess the LED draws between 1-2W so 10 Ohms 10W would be perfect. I will buy them in the morning and crawl back under the car

[wylde1]

yep, just tweak the resistor wires so the resistor body isn't touching the harness, and the airflow around it should keep it cool. Mine are down in the same area and I haven't burnt anything yet.

Good luck!