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Old 03-15-2019, 05:37 PM   #43
Skyman2112
 
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The dealer said i needed a new battery when i got my transmission flushed. I never had a problem the year i owned it, but he said it started slow 1 time. Ever since they replaced it, the battery randomly goes dead. Something happened when they connected the new battery. I took it back to the dealer and they left a tester on it for 2 days but it never drew more than 80ma at the peak and a steady 25ma. Well within limits.
So they said the battery and everything was fine of course and i took it back home thinking it was just a freak thing. I drove it a few times in 3 weeks with no problems then the 3rd time i went to drive it was completely dead after only 4 days.
This time i flatbeded it to the same dealer to show them how dead it was (4.4 volts). Waiting to hear what they find. So far ive heard of things like the on star battery being low causing modules to wake up too much, or a passenger seat motor drawing current, and also an HMI module not going to sleep properly. and Key fob issues if its too close. Whatever it is, it started when they changed my supposedly bad battery. Wish they have never touched it LOL
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Old 03-15-2019, 07:49 PM   #44
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From my experience, every time a Dealer touches my cars they break something. I wont let them touch it. Not even "free" oil changes. It's gotten so bad, I trade them in if a warranty issue pops up.
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:42 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyman2112 View Post
The dealer said i needed a new battery when i got my transmission flushed. I never had a problem the year i owned it, but he said it started slow 1 time. Ever since they replaced it, the battery randomly goes dead. Something happened when they connected the new battery. I took it back to the dealer and they left a tester on it for 2 days but it never drew more than 80ma at the peak and a steady 25ma. Well within limits.
So they said the battery and everything was fine of course and i took it back home thinking it was just a freak thing. I drove it a few times in 3 weeks with no problems then the 3rd time i went to drive it was completely dead after only 4 days.
This time i flatbeded it to the same dealer to show them how dead it was (4.4 volts). Waiting to hear what they find. So far ive heard of things like the on star battery being low causing modules to wake up too much, or a passenger seat motor drawing current, and also an HMI module not going to sleep properly. and Key fob issues if its too close. Whatever it is, it started when they changed my supposedly bad battery. Wish they have never touched it LOL
Just because they put in a new battery does not guarantee that it was maintained before it was installed. Aside from driving, have you put it on a charger? I believe that the battery management is good at maintaining a charged battery but not very good at reviving a discharged one. It may sound like overkill, but a few days on a charger may be what it needs to bring it back to life.

On a side note, I think the LED reverse lights with resistors that I installed may have caused my battery discharge problem. I changed them back to the factory ones last fall, and I have let my car sit in the garage unused for 6 weeks at a time and the voltage only dipped to 12.2, not great, but certainly not dead and enough to start the car with no problem.

Anyone else who installed LED reverse lights experience battery drain problems?
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Old 03-15-2019, 09:24 PM   #46
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Be sure the battery clamps are tight.
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Old 03-16-2019, 09:27 AM   #47
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Besides the terminals being tight, check how things were attached and that the battery cover was installed correctly.
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Old 11-06-2020, 10:36 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torqueaddict View Post
I think most of these problems are related to the infotainment system(for whatever reason) not going to sleep completely, or waking up randomly. The rest are probably defective batteries.
I seem to have this problem at the moment. Screen goes black but the backlight stays on.



Techlink article on parasitic drain and module sleep modes:
https://gm-techlink.com/?p=6831
...and suggests all kinds of BS can cause battery drain, including:
"Some parasitic drains can be difficult to diagnose, especially if other components are causing a module to remain awake. For example, Bulletin #16-NA-126 covers an intermittent dead battery condition on 2016 Cascada models. In this case, if the battery drops below 65% state of charge, the tail lamps send a diagnostic request to the BCM, which causes everything on the BUS to wake up and remain awake until the battery drains. A new tail lamp part number has been released to address this condition."

This related thread had no suggestions other than "don't plug in your phone"
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=532664


So first stop is "when it doubt, reboot." I will try removing the negative battery terminal overnight to see if it resets.
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Old 11-06-2020, 03:20 PM   #49
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Figured I'd give an update since I started this post, and Gunkk just revived it.

Since I put the original reverse light bulbs back in, I have had zero issues with the original battery. I forget exactly how long it's been, but well over a year ago.
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Old 02-09-2021, 10:43 PM   #50
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2017 SS BATTERY SUCKS DRY ?????

Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen e View Post
You will never convince me that this car in some way , shape or form does not have a engineering, parts or design defect that causes the battery sometimes to just go flat. I went to two different dealership, replaced the battery once, and still it would sometimes without reason take the battery flat in three days. Other times it would last five weeks. I finally got so sick of it that I mounted a battery switch that would disconnect my negative and anytime the car was going to sit for longer than two days And eventually I sold the car. the dealers that looked at this car were competant and could find nothing wrong.

This is not a new problem. We've been dealing with this here since 2016. Do a search here you'll find all sorts of early posts of the six Gen that experienced this problem.
MY 2017 CAMARO SS IS DOING THE SAME THING, I SOLD IT TODAY, SICK OF PLAYING GAMES, GM SHOULD DO A RECALL !! 02-09-2021
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Old 02-10-2021, 06:51 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunkk View Post
I seem to have this problem at the moment. Screen goes black but the backlight stays on.



Techlink article on parasitic drain and module sleep modes:
https://gm-techlink.com/?p=6831
...and suggests all kinds of BS can cause battery drain, including:
"Some parasitic drains can be difficult to diagnose, especially if other components are causing a module to remain awake. For example, Bulletin #16-NA-126 covers an intermittent dead battery condition on 2016 Cascada models. In this case, if the battery drops below 65% state of charge, the tail lamps send a diagnostic request to the BCM, which causes everything on the BUS to wake up and remain awake until the battery drains. A new tail lamp part number has been released to address this condition."

This related thread had no suggestions other than "don't plug in your phone"
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=532664


So first stop is "when it doubt, reboot." I will try removing the negative battery terminal overnight to see if it resets.
All newer cars will draw from the battery 24/7, Ive had a few corvettes that have acted up over the years with even a slight drop in voltage like the screen would go dark and would go away after driving for 20 minutes. Anytime I buy a used GM product I put a new battery in. Also the alternators they install aren't usually the best either. I have also installed a better after market option more then once. Probably depends on your location but here in South Fl I replace the battery on my daily drivers every 3 years.
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Old 02-10-2021, 09:27 AM   #52
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I started using a c-tek charger every week or so after getting a notice that the battery was low and measuring 12.05V. Dealer checked it out and said everything tested ok...

There are probably multiple reasons this can happen and judging from the very short ~3 yr life expectancy of the battery I think using a smart charger regularly is a good idea and will likely double the life of the battery or more.
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Old 02-10-2021, 11:50 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17rsvert View Post
Anyone else who installed LED reverse lights experience battery drain problems?
This is one mod that really seems to fail the cost vs benefit analysis. I like the look of LED, but so many headaches.

This thread explains how reverse LED's can cause parasitic drain. There is a constant bias voltage applied to the stop/turn bulb even when the vehicle is off. Not enough current to illuminate a filament. But there is a path through a shared ground with the reverse indicator that is opened when you install an LED reverse light.
https://www.impalaforums.com/threads...1772714/page-2
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Old 02-10-2021, 11:57 AM   #54
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In the thread about heat soak in the starters, I picked up a good tip. I have the replacement Hero sequential taillights that do the same thing as the reverse light replacement, uses LEDs for reverse. This requires a resister. Something about the taillights causes battery drain and slow starts. The starter thread recommended additional ground wires. I put two on. One from the front frame ground post to the water pump on the engine. The other from the battery ground post to a stud sticking out from the floor pan under the floor panel by the fuse box. It's been almost a month and no problems with slow start or discharged battery.
I got this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 04-01-2022, 01:54 PM   #55
LtColumbo
 
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Here's my story.


2017 V6 A8 with 17k miles on it. Original battery. Parked in an enclosed garage.


A year ago I installed a Range AFM unit. I did seem to notice slower cranking at that time, if the car sat for a week. According to RANGE, that could be normal.



I would periodically charge the battery over night since I don't always drive the car enough to keep it full-up. Load test shows good.



Now (a year later) I notice slower cranking after only 2-3 days now, so I decided to do a little testing. (I had not checked this forum yet.) Lately I've been using a small battery tender (750mA) and after sitting for only 2 days without being driven or charged, it will take quite a few hours for the light to go green. So far, the battery has never gone "dead."


Working in the trunk to access the battery, I disconnected the trunk light. I opened the driver side door so I could remove the AFM. Closed the door and waited for the interior lights to go off.


After a few more minutes, I measured 179mA draw! I waited a few more minutes, but it remained the same.


I repeated the steps after reinstalling the AFM. The draw is now 203mA. The AFM is drawing 24mA. RANGE said that is too high and to send it back for repairs.


The problem is that, after reading the posts, I see that it can take quite a long time for all of the modules to "sleep." And I read that each door latch has an electrical connection to show "ajar." In my case, I did NOT engage the TRUNK latch connection. I didn't know beforehand.



I need to know what is drawing 179mA. I need to know how to test if that goes down to, say, 25mA, which seems to be the acceptable/normal amount of parasitic draw.


Suggestions appreciated. Thanks!

Last edited by LtColumbo; 04-05-2022 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 04-08-2022, 04:48 PM   #56
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Bump...
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