[Roostie]

I took my LS/V6 1LE to a local Firestone Autocare and got a lifetime alignment package. I gave them the supplemental owner's manual with Chevy's recommended specs, and they were able to reach & exceed the negative camber target for the rear axle, but could only get .8 & 1.0 degrees of negative camber on the front axle (negative 2.0 is the target). The technician showed real interest in the issue and we discussed what he tried, and he followed all the procedures listed in a detailed how-to post on this forum.

The only solution I can think of is to take the car to a Chevy dealer for and alignment and ask them to set the car to Chevy's recommended values in the owner's manual supplement. Then, if they can't get close to -2.0 on the front axle, my hope would be to have that investigated and fixed.

Has anyone else had trouble getting the recommended front-axle camber?

[Kairles]

was only able to get -1.8 out of mine, and it wasnt easy.

[ddanj]

Yup I was also only able to get about -1.8 up front at an independent shop.

[Buzzberd6]

I was able to get -2.0 on mine and -1.3 on the rear. He indicated to me that he had no problems at all getting the -2, there was also a lot more available for the rear but since I drive it every day we decided to stay at -1.3.

[Whitespeed]

My alignment guy said that after he backed off the nuts on the front strut bolts, he had to knock the bolts loose (like they were going to be driven out) with a hammer to get the strut to come free and move on the hub. I don't recall what the final alignment numbers were, but they were pretty close to the recommended track spec.

OP, care to provide a link to this "how to" post?

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

My alignment guy said that after he backed off the nuts on the front strut bolts, he had to knock the bolts loose (like they were going to be driven out) with a hammer to get the strut to come free and move on the hub. I don't recall what the final alignment numbers were, but they were pretty close to the recommended track spec.

OP, care to provide a link to this "how to" post?

The struts on all (Camaro's- ZL1 1LE included), have a camber adjustment slot built into the upper bolt of the lower strut mount. That upper bolt is splined, so you need to hammer it back past the splines to more easily adjust camber. Here is a link on how to mod the strut for more camber, the "before" photo shows how your V6 1LE's struts will also look when you back the bolt out.

You shouldn't have to do the stut mod to acheive any camber value that the GM performance supplement recommends.

If I were you, I'd tell my alignment guy this specifically: "the front camber adjustment bolt is splined, so before you try and adjust front camber, hammer the bolt out about 1/2 way to get past the splines"

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=526353

[Roostie]

Originally Posted by Whitespeed

My alignment guy said that after he backed off the nuts on the front strut bolts, he had to knock the bolts loose (like they were going to be driven out) with a hammer to get the strut to come free and move on the hub. I don't recall what the final alignment numbers were, but they were pretty close to the recommended track spec.

OP, care to provide a link to this "how to" post?

Here's the "how to" post I had in mind, from page 7 of the D Street autocross thread by Marc Scroggs, see post #98: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=477232&page=7

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by Roostie

Here's the "how to" post I had in mind, from page 7 of the D Street autocross thread by Marc Scroggs, see post #98: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=477232&page=7

So, basically what's been recommended here? He knocked the alignment bolts loose befor attempting to adjust the camber?

Nigel

[Roostie]

Yes, so he said.