[beworthy3]

So ive had the car for about a year and a half and im going to start getting into auto cross and eventually some track days. First autox event is next sunday. Any opinions on if I should start with the track alignment or should I run it how it is. How have your experiences been?

[SDF62]

I personally would at least have it checked. So many Camaros left the factory with really poor alignment specs. If an adjustment is required, get the proper alignment done. Make sure the tech gets the alignment the same side to side...often times they won't take the time to get things exact. If you want to get your numbers exact, have them make the final settings with you in the drivers seat. Its best to learn in a properly handling car than one you are fighting. Just my .02 cents

[kropscamaro16]

track alignment 100% better tire wear and better handling

[Stephen12ZL1]

-2.0 front camber -1.5 rear camber. Toe 0 front & rear

[VR Baron]

If you are autocrossing with with stock tires, I max out front camber, which is about -2.6. At that number you won’t rub and has worked well over the years for me. Rear I do -1.6 which is about max . Front toe do 0. Rear toe at .125” total in. I get good wear with those specs on my fifth gen, and so far pretty even tire wear on track and street set. If wear gets bad on inside tread block, just back the camber off some. That would be for street, track it will still wear less on the inside tread blocks vs the outside one

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by VR Baron

If you are autocrossing with with stock tires, I max out front camber, which is about -2.6. At that number you won’t rub and has worked well over the years for me. Rear I do -1.6 which is about max . Front toe do 0. Rear toe at .125” total in. I get good wear with those specs on my fifth gen, and so far pretty even tire wear on track and street set. If wear gets bad on inside tread block, just back the camber off some. That would be for street, track it will still wear less on the inside tread blocks vs the outside one

+1 on this recommendation. Cheers!

[pbsinternet1le]

Max front should be around -2.5 and rear -1.5... shop will probably tell you that you are crazy your tires will wear in a month. It is absolutely the way to go and you will be fine to leave it.

[cdrptrks]

Take it somewhere that will agree to do max front and rear camber and zero front toe (actual zero...Hunter laser computer system defaults to +0.1 per side for FE4 Camaro suspension which you don't want and shows 0 on the WinToe screen but 0=+0.1 per the target set in the system which will be shown on the final printout. Get +0.05 toe per side rear (or up to +0.07 per side). You will likely pay extra by wearing the outside of your tires down to the cords before the rest of the front tire tread is used up if you autocross and/or track much without the track alignment. Make sure they agree to and do match the camber numbers exactly side to side on the fronts and rears or it will pull to one side when you drive straight...I have encountered lots of lazy and misinformed techs. You will get better results going to a race/track focused shop but probably pay more. If not, stand by the car and talk with the tech as they work (YMMV) and show them the details of how to release the front bolt splines if they don't already know otherwise you likely won't even be able to reach -2 front camber:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...7#post10957287

P.S. This should all be done with the wheels on the car while it is on the alignment rack. If they try to do it with wheels off, take the car elsewhere.

Mine maxed out at -2.4 front on new tires (-2.3 on worn tires) and -1.4 rear but one of the front sides had less camber when physically maxed than the other in my case so you may get a bit more.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

Take it somewhere that will agree to do max front and rear camber and zero front toe (actual zero...Hunter laser computer system defaults to +0.1 per side for FE4 Camaro suspension which you don't want and shows 0 on the WinToe screen but 0=+0.1 per the target set in the system which will be shown on the final printout. Get +0.05 toe per side rear (or up to +0.07 per side). You will likely pay extra by wearing the outside of your tires down to the cords before the rest of the front tire tread is used up if you autocross and/or track much without the track alignment. Make sure they agree to and do match the camber numbers exactly side to side on the fronts and rears or it will pull to one side when you drive straight...I have encountered lots of lazy and misinformed techs. You will get better results going to a race/track focused shop but probably pay more. If not, stand by the car and talk with the tech as they work (YMMV) and show them the details of how to release the front bolt splines if they don't already know otherwise you likely won't even be able to reach -2 front camber:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...7#post10957287

P.S. This should all be done with the wheels on the car while it is on the alignment rack. If they try to do it with wheels off, take the car elsewhere.

Mine maxed out at -2.4 front on new tires (-2.3 on worn tires) and -1.4 rear but one of the front sides had less camber when physically maxed than the other in my case so you may get a bit more.

Another great advice, but i would be careful about "maxing" the camber, as i got 2.9F and had to ask them to dial it back. So, best to speak to a shop owner/service mgr and give him a sheet with your exact specs in writing (plus the instructions how to "free" the fronts. Tell them they must dial exact specs with mirror image side to side.

I took my 21 to a GM dealer and they did a great job. But, it took 3 tries and their best tech to do it. Cheers!

[TrackClub]

Here is a different version of instructions posted a ling time ago by Ryephile. I had used it to have mine done.

Loosen the 2 strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts
-->Here's the important part that average shops can't seem to wrap their head around:
*Hammer the bolt a little bit to loosen it from the knuckle. Splines on the bolt OD grip the knuckle otherwise making the alignment nearly impossible. If you don't get the 2 strut bolts loose, the alignment isn't going to happen without...guess what...that stupid "adjustment bolt".
*adjust to taste - snug up strut bolts. You can choose to have the strut bolts "kinda snug" to hold the relationship until it's adjusted satisfactorily. The "adjustment bolt" can kind of help here, but it only limits movement in one direction, meaning the alignment can still drift the other way until the 2 strut bolts are snugged up.
*check alignment, torque strut bolts, verify alignment.

[cdrptrks]

One thing on to add...even the adjustment bolt won't help if the splines are still engaged. Both strut to knuckle bolts on each side need to be pulled about halfway out to fully disengage the splines then put back in to re-engage the splines after pushing on the top of the wheel/tire to adjust the position to allow for max camber. Strut to knuckle bolt is for reducing the amount of negative camber on one front side in a quick/precise manner if the camber numbers do not exactly match side to side after the tech's first attempt.

Interesting, your 2021 must have had perfect tolerances to get -2.9 on both sides stock or maybe GM changed something a bit compared to the previous model years. I had to do the strut mod to get into that ballpark.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by cdrptrks

One thing on to add...even the adjustment bolt won't help if the splines are still engaged. Both strut to knuckle bolts on each side need to be pulled about halfway out to fully disengage the splines then put back in to re-engage the splines after pushing on the top of the wheel/tire to adjust the position to allow for max camber. Strut to knuckle bolt is for reducing the amount of negative camber on one front side in a quick/precise manner if the camber numbers do not exactly match side to side after the tech's first attempt.

Interesting, your 2021 must have had perfect tolerances to get -2.9 on both sides stock or maybe GM changed something a bit compared to the previous model years. I had to do the strut mod to get into that ballpark.

yep i was rather surprised. BTW my bad: 20 not 21 lol! Then again, we had no issues dialing in 2.6 on my 17. Cheers!

[beworthy3]

Thanks for all. Ill aim for -2.5 upfront and -1.5 on the rear. I think im leaning towards leaving the toe at o though

[cdrptrks]

For reference, the splines in question are at the top part of the bolt in this picture.