[samsumon]

Trying to ge the car as bare as possible so I can reapply a new coat of Backfire wax and then hydro 02.. Wondering if I should use ironX after my first wash or if the rubbing alcohol will work the best alone?

Thanks

[greg72982]

The purpose of IronX is to remove embedded iron particles that the claybar does not remove. That's pretty much it's only purpose. Alcohol is used to remove any leftover polishing oils or wax. Alcohol is usually your last step before wax/sealant/coating.

The short answer is do both.

[samsumon]

Originally Posted by greg72982

The purpose of IronX is to remove embedded iron particles that the claybar does not remove. That's pretty much it's only purpose. Alcohol is used to remove any leftover polishing oils or wax. Alcohol is usually your last step before wax/sealant/coating.

The short answer is do both.

What solution do I use for the alcohol prep?

[leadfoot93]

should one use iron x first then clay or vice versa?

[2006Moy]

Originally Posted by leadfoot93

should one use iron x first then clay or vice versa?

+1

[Glen e]

Iron x
Rinse
Clay or nanosponge
Dawn Wash
Polish
Seal
Drive
Rinseless to maintain

[greg72982]

IronX first, then claybar.


I'll refer you to this post for the alcohol question as I'm not sure: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...n-results.html

There are also products designed specifically for that step like CarPro Eraser. They will cost more of course, but they are also safer.

[Jeanius]

Sorry guys I have an IRONX write up in the works but have just been ridiculously busy

in my case, I had to apply it 3 times, since I did not allow the dealer to prep the car

[2006Moy]

Originally Posted by Glen e

Iron x
Rinse
Clay or nanosponge
Dawn Wash
Polish
Seal
Drive
Rinseless to maintain

Thank you I had no idea this was the correct order.

[samsumon]

Originally Posted by Glen e

Iron x
Rinse
Clay or nanosponge
Dawn Wash
Polish
Seal
Drive
Rinseless to maintain

I'm using black fire polish and seal.. Then either applying hydro02 or wet diamond (which i have but not sure of its full effects).

thoughts???/

Also, how do i remove bugs when doing rinse less and lastly, how do i know if my car is too dirty for a rinse less???


P.S: what rinse less do you use?

[Mud Z06]

Leave the Dawn for the dishes, lol.

Proctor & Gamble, the makers of Dawn, don't even recommend it.

There are plenty of auto wash solutions that will strip waxes, etc. The loudest people on the forum aren't always the best sources.

[Glen e]

Dawn is fine, but do what you think is best , you use it once....from one of my detailer friends at autogeek:

Re: Why Are You Not Supposed to Use Dish Soap To Wash A Car?
Holy crap the wive's tales come out. As Mike Phillips will tell you, old SS paint may be more porous, and therefore can be rejuvenated by "oily" products, but paint has no oil in it to be removed by Dawn. Modern CC paints are catalyzed, and therefore don't really "dry", they cure by a chemical reaction (there may additionally be some carrier solvents, including water, that need to evaporate from the film at the same time curing is occuring).

I am always amused by the Dawn "fears" (you'll wreck your paint! you'll dry out your seals!) The idea that a product that is gentle and safe enough that tens of millions of people put their hands in every day to wash their dishes, eat out of dishes washed in it, is used to clean oil-soaked pelicans and penguins, is somehow too harsh to use on a car, which is designed to perhaps sit out in the elements 24/7, be run through automatic car washes with harsh detergents, and stand up to decon kits (which AG sells) containing caustic and acid steps, simply defies logic.

[Nor Cal ZL1]

Originally Posted by samsumon

I'm using black fire polish and seal.. Then either applying hydro02 or wet diamond (which i have but not sure of its full effects).

thoughts???/

Also, how do i remove bugs when doing rinse less and lastly, how do i know if my car is too dirty for a rinse less???


P.S: what rinse less do you use?

The level of bonded contiminates, and dust will determine the wash method. I follow this train of thought.

Waterless for garage dust, or a fairly clean car with out contiminates bonded by rain ,dew, or a crap load of bugs, or massive amounts of garage dust. Waterless can be performed after rinsing most of the heavy stuff off, but why bother at that point.... hose is already out.

Rinseless is the bridge between waterless and the two bucket. I use this method on moderately dirty car with some light bonded contaminates. I use this on cars cleaned weekly unless they are hammered with bugs. If they are hammered with bugs I either presoak the areas which usually works well , then hose off the area and evaluate what was left after hosing. Then I either resoak or bug sponge of what remains depending.

Again if the entire car needs to be hosed off then why bother just 2 bucket it at that time.

If a car has been driven in wet weather and has lots of bonded dirt I just do the two bucket right off the bat. Here is some info for you.

http://www.autogeek.net/how-to-use-rinseless-wash.html

http://www.autogeek.net/remove-bugs-and-tar.html


For rinseless I use Ultima. At differerent ratios it is waterless, rinseless, clay lube, detail spray. It plays well with mosf other lsp products except coatings. For coated cars it can streak but if you follow up with car pro reload while drying it works well.
Blackfire also works very well, as well as ONR.

http://www.autogeek.net/ultima-water...ncentrate.html

http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-rinseless-wash.html


http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html

All great products.