[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

If the rust is not visible with the light in place, I would go the sandpaper and rustoleum route.
This is based on my experience with driers on the liquid line for A/C condensers. They always rust (I live close to the ocean) and the factory paint pops off. HVAC guys want like $300-400 to replace these, which includes the recovery/recharge... blah, blah, blah. I read on an HVAC forum that you can just sand off most of the surface rust and spray them with rustoleum. Might have to redo it every 2-3 years, but the drier will last as long as the condenser. Sure enough, this works!

Those pesky driers, they do rust! Mine - sand, rust reformer, combo primer / paint (house paint) since done ~10 years and still good.

[Rnovrit]

Not to derail this too much but the filter/dryer on an AC system should be located closer to the evaporator coil inside. The dryer is technically a restriction and should be placed close to the metering device when possible. The instruction manual for the outdoor unit will show this. I am on the west coast and are within 0-3 miles of the ocean for most jobs. I have my crews install them inside to prevent future failures due to corrosion.



Back to the subject, definitely check the rest of the seals for the trunk. Good that you caught it now before it became a much worse issue.

[SnakeEyeSS]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

Rust through corrosion warranty is 6 years 100k. Not sure if this falls under that but I figured I’d mention it as there’s a small chance your car is a late 2017 and might be just under 6 years old.

and this is something I'd think a service advisor can jump on without "diagnostic". I know they did for my lifting door sills.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by SnakeEyeSS

and this is something I'd think a service advisor can jump on without "diagnostic". I know they did for my lifting door sills.

Indeed, although let's be fair here, how would anyone detect rust behind the third brake light without removing it (which destroys the seal and you must install a new one)?

Speaking of lifting door sills, interesting to hear that you had that problem, too. Mine both started to lift badly just 2-3 months into ownership in 2018, clearly there was a defective batch of these parts back then. The replacements I got under warranty have been on for 5 years and still look perfect.

[Chutzpah]

[QUOTE=Rnovrit;11361931]Not to derail this too much but the filter/dryer on an AC system should be located closer to the evaporator coil inside. The dryer is technically a restriction and should be placed close to the metering device when possible. The instruction manual for the outdoor unit will show this. I am on the west coast and are within 0-3 miles of the ocean for most jobs. I have my crews install them inside to prevent future failures due to corrosion.




Solid input on installing the liquid line drier inside for corrosion protection. But, as far as pressure drop on a “typical” residential split system, it can be placed anywhere between the condenser and prior to the metering device. Pressure drop is pressure drop, it doesn’t matter where it happens (same line).

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

Solid input on installing the liquid line drier inside for corrosion protection.

Yes, off-topic, but I also appreciate this tip because I am rebuilding a house destroyed by Hurricane Ian. Here in NJ I have one drier inside and one out. Inside looks brand new!

[RyanD]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

Use a tiny screw driver to peal back the loose areas. Use a Dremel with a small, straight stainless steel wire brush to clean the rust (low speed, light pressure). Use Q tip and coat the steel (only) with rust reformer (let dry completely),

Hey guys, you all are the best, really appreciate all the input here, and the educational info about AC systems lol.

I decided to give Chutzpah's recommendation a shot. After going at the rust with my dremel and wire brush attachment for a good while, I've run into these dark spots that seem to be really stubborn. I'm sure this is a dumb question, but what am I looking at here? Is this just deeper rust? Can I proceed with the rust reformer at this point, or do I need to try and get down to bare metal?

If this DIY job doesn't work out, Hostile_1LE's suggestion for the carbon fiber trunk is also very tempting, looks like Anderson's Composites makes a really nice one lol...

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by RyanD

Hey guys, you all are the best, really appreciate all the input here, and the educational info about AC systems lol.

I decided to give Chutzpah's recommendation a shot. After going at the rust with my dremel and wire brush attachment for a good while, I've run into these dark spots that seem to be really stubborn. I'm sure this is a dumb question, but what am I looking at here? Is this just deeper rust? Can I proceed with the rust reformer at this point, or do I need to try and get down to bare metal?

If this DIY job doesn't work out, Hostile_1LE's suggestion for the carbon fiber trunk is also very tempting, looks like Anderson's Composites makes a really nice one lol...

That’s black rust, which is clearly different than red rust and much harder to remove. It has a strong molecular bond to the metal. If left in the presence of oxygen, it will eventually turn to the red rust. It’s ok to leave the black rust in place as long as it’s not cracking / in chunks (red rust hides in crevices), which yours is not. Make sure to go out as far as necessary to remove the red rust. Otherwise, you be redoing your work or buying the CF lid. Coat with rust reformer and good to go. The rust reformer can typically be used as a primer too. I found that paint doesn't like to stick to the rust reformer as nicely as primer, so that’s why I included that as second step before painting. Good luck…

[RyanD]

Final result came out pretty rough, I think mostly because I didn't do any sanding of the primer, but I'm still really happy with it. The touch up is almost entirely all behind the brake light. So the main thing is hopefully the rust doesn't continue.

Also adding some before/after pictures now that the car is all back together. The lights are a small modification but really changed the whole look of the car.

[The Maverick]

Originally Posted by RyanD

Final result came out pretty rough, I think mostly because I didn't do any sanding of the primer, but I'm still really happy with it. The touch up is almost entirely all behind the brake light. So the main thing is hopefully the rust doesn't continue.

Also adding some before/after pictures now that the car is all back together. The lights are a small modification but really changed the whole look of the car.

Nice implementation of the blackout look! If you've thought about relocating the rear SS badge, here is a thread that shows some options that other forum members have gone with:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=436023&page=5