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Old 05-19-2022, 05:13 PM   #1
SOCAL.M6.ZLE
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DIY LT4 GARAGE CAM SWAP ???

Hey Family... With my first round of mods now over two weeks old... I am starting to plan for phase.2
With my mods below am thinking that a cam would get me over 700rwhp and the fuel I need for a little more E.

With that said I have (3) questions...


1. With a stage II cam (medium choppy idle) what RWHP level could I expect knowing that perhaps I could add more E?
2. Anyone here done a cam upgrade at home? If so... would you do it again? Basically, is there anything keeping me from doing it at home?
3. For you DIY'ers... any good videos you can share that will help me gauge the difficulty?
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2022 M6 ZLE: Katech CNC Ported Blower + Ported Heads + 103mm TB + Oil Pump + C5R Chain + Valve Covers + Coil Relocation
TSP VVT and DoD Delete Covers + LME Chain Guide + DSX Billet Lid + ATI Damper + 9.17" Lower + 2.4" Upper + MM Wild CC
Coated ARH + AWE Touring + Magnaflow Center X + E85 + MSD Coils + Banks iDash + JMS Booster + Synergy Fender Tank
ALL the RED Rear End BMR Goodies + JRE Terminator Cam Package + Remote Tuning and Moral Support from TED @ JRE
BMR Motor Mounts + DMS Front HX + FIC 30's + APEX SM.10's + 305/345 R888R's = 770rwhp 785rwtq @E50 13.5psi
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Old 05-19-2022, 05:30 PM   #2
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Curious, That’s a brand new car with warranty?
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:48 PM   #3
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Can be done at home, pulling the engine is usually preferred method from what I read. My cam is comparable to stage 2, just a custom stage 2 from my understanding. 760 whp on e50 I think it was, on a heat soaked pull so might be a little more. I also did heads/valvetrain/oil pump/heat exchanger and intercooler pump as well at the same time.

Service manual says to drop the cradle and engine together but I've seen a few people pull it out the top. Front bumper is usually pulled off also which isn't too difficult. If you're mechanically inclined, I think it could be done by the home mechanic. Take your time and double check everything, sure you can get plenty of help from the members here. Think there's a thread somewhere here about pulling the engine with details
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drnick View Post
Curious, That’s a brand new car with warranty?

New car... YES.
Warranty... I'm sure it came with one, but I planned on modding so I didnt ask and don't really care



Wrenching and modding is too much fun!
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2022 M6 ZLE: Katech CNC Ported Blower + Ported Heads + 103mm TB + Oil Pump + C5R Chain + Valve Covers + Coil Relocation
TSP VVT and DoD Delete Covers + LME Chain Guide + DSX Billet Lid + ATI Damper + 9.17" Lower + 2.4" Upper + MM Wild CC
Coated ARH + AWE Touring + Magnaflow Center X + E85 + MSD Coils + Banks iDash + JMS Booster + Synergy Fender Tank
ALL the RED Rear End BMR Goodies + JRE Terminator Cam Package + Remote Tuning and Moral Support from TED @ JRE
BMR Motor Mounts + DMS Front HX + FIC 30's + APEX SM.10's + 305/345 R888R's = 770rwhp 785rwtq @E50 13.5psi
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Old 05-19-2022, 07:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evansa22 View Post
Can be done at home, pulling the engine is usually preferred method from what I read. My cam is comparable to stage 2, just a custom stage 2 from my understanding. 760 whp on e50 I think it was, on a heat soaked pull so might be a little more. I also did heads/valvetrain/oil pump/heat exchanger and intercooler pump as well at the same time.

Service manual says to drop the cradle and engine together but I've seen a few people pull it out the top. Front bumper is usually pulled off also which isn't too difficult. If you're mechanically inclined, I think it could be done by the home mechanic. Take your time and double check everything, sure you can get plenty of help from the members here. Think there's a thread somewhere here about pulling the engine with details

Thanks for the feedback. I did a H/C package on my 99 SS LS1 18 years ago with some help... left the motor in, and had enough help that i was not worried. At home alone, with a more sophisticated animal is causing me to pause and ask. I'm most worried about cam alignment to make sure the timing is correct. Ill have to start digging for videos... just assumed everyone here, had some either encouraging words, or caution to heed.
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2022 M6 ZLE: Katech CNC Ported Blower + Ported Heads + 103mm TB + Oil Pump + C5R Chain + Valve Covers + Coil Relocation
TSP VVT and DoD Delete Covers + LME Chain Guide + DSX Billet Lid + ATI Damper + 9.17" Lower + 2.4" Upper + MM Wild CC
Coated ARH + AWE Touring + Magnaflow Center X + E85 + MSD Coils + Banks iDash + JMS Booster + Synergy Fender Tank
ALL the RED Rear End BMR Goodies + JRE Terminator Cam Package + Remote Tuning and Moral Support from TED @ JRE
BMR Motor Mounts + DMS Front HX + FIC 30's + APEX SM.10's + 305/345 R888R's = 770rwhp 785rwtq @E50 13.5psi
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Old 05-19-2022, 08:19 PM   #6
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No advise since I haven’t done a Gen V LT1. This is one of the better videos I’ve found for cam swap.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pJYR0D...ature=youtu.be
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Originally Posted by arpad_m - “Aww, yet another oil thread with almost the same question in the OP“
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Old 05-19-2022, 08:52 PM   #7
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I haven't done one in this car (but have put a couple engines together and installed them), but I believe the obstacle to overcome is dropping the pan. It seems like lifting the engine or dropping it out altogether are the common methods to address this.

It seems to me, if I were ever motivated, or left this $h1th0L3, I have had the front facia off enough that the mess from the the fluids would be the biggest drag to me. I suspect you could remove the entire front end (minus the fenders), remove the cooling module, loosen the engine mounts and slightly lift the engine with a cherry picker. I'm probably over-simplifying (duh), but it really doesn't seem that impossible. It's probably at least a weekend-long project for a built-not-bought-type, but unless you build engines and are familiar with the Gen V platform, it's risky. For example - knowing the intake valves require reinstalling tip-cap so the rocker arms don't destroy the intake valve tips is a mistake that will cost an engine in a high likelihood.

I might try this at some point, but not for quite some time. It doesn't look too hard. It can't be worse than my 408 H2, lol.
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Old 05-20-2022, 08:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
I haven't done one in this car (but have put a couple engines together and installed them), but I believe the obstacle to overcome is dropping the pan. It seems like lifting the engine or dropping it out altogether are the common methods to address this.

It seems to me, if I were ever motivated, or left this $h1th0L3, I have had the front facia off enough that the mess from the the fluids would be the biggest drag to me. I suspect you could remove the entire front end (minus the fenders), remove the cooling module, loosen the engine mounts and slightly lift the engine with a cherry picker. I'm probably over-simplifying (duh), but it really doesn't seem that impossible. It's probably at least a weekend-long project for a built-not-bought-type, but unless you build engines and are familiar with the Gen V platform, it's risky. For example - knowing the intake valves require reinstalling tip-cap so the rocker arms don't destroy the intake valve tips is a mistake that will cost an engine in a high likelihood.

I might try this at some point, but not for quite some time. It doesn't look too hard. It can't be worse than my 408 H2, lol.

Thanks for the feedback... its these small details i am trying to un-cover via step-by-step guide, video or testimonial.


Question, why do you need to drop the oil pan?
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2022 M6 ZLE: Katech CNC Ported Blower + Ported Heads + 103mm TB + Oil Pump + C5R Chain + Valve Covers + Coil Relocation
TSP VVT and DoD Delete Covers + LME Chain Guide + DSX Billet Lid + ATI Damper + 9.17" Lower + 2.4" Upper + MM Wild CC
Coated ARH + AWE Touring + Magnaflow Center X + E85 + MSD Coils + Banks iDash + JMS Booster + Synergy Fender Tank
ALL the RED Rear End BMR Goodies + JRE Terminator Cam Package + Remote Tuning and Moral Support from TED @ JRE
BMR Motor Mounts + DMS Front HX + FIC 30's + APEX SM.10's + 305/345 R888R's = 770rwhp 785rwtq @E50 13.5psi
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Old 05-20-2022, 08:52 AM   #9
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I enjoy modding as well and have taken on many projects for my self and stuff my son and I could do together on his FRS. However, some things I feel are best left to a person with experience and all the tools needs to make job simpler. Example, sure I could learn HP Tuners but I would rather pay a tuner who has tuned many cars if that makes sense.
I wouldn’t go for the cam swap myself however look forward to your write up if you try it. Good luck
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Old 05-20-2022, 09:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE View Post
Thanks for the feedback... its these small details i am trying to un-cover via step-by-step guide, video or testimonial.


Question, why do you need to drop the oil pan?
I know someone will correct me, but I think it has to do with the oil pump. I don't understand why, and I haven't really researched it, but maybe it's because there's no pan gasket (it's RTV) and that has to do with the oil pump in some way. Or - the oil pump has to be removed, and the pan interferes with that, so the pan has to come off. I don't recall ever noticing what the case is/was.
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Old 05-20-2022, 10:07 AM   #11
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You know since you are a M6 you could go stage 3 cam since a convertor is a non issue. Believe when i spoke to BTR when i did my swap they said its appx 25-30hp difference. Don't recall if they meant crank or rwhp gain.
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Old 05-20-2022, 10:55 AM   #12
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a couple days into it and we decided we'd pull the motor if we were to do again. there is a heat exchanger install video on youtube that makes it look fairly easy...but the radiator behind it was skipped in this video and we found out why lol. what a bitch to get around. we also used a 2 or 3 part series of another guy's at home(motor in car) cam install...once again skipping the radiator work around...but still helpful

they are likely talking about pulling the pan to change out the oil pump, might as well while you're there
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Old 05-20-2022, 11:08 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chippy View Post
I enjoy modding as well and have taken on many projects for my self and stuff my son and I could do together on his FRS. However, some things I feel are best left to a person with experience and all the tools needs to make job simpler. Example, sure I could learn HP Tuners but I would rather pay a tuner who has tuned many cars if that makes sense.
I wouldn’t go for the cam swap myself however look forward to your write up if you try it. Good luck

Im with you... I also hire when needed. Its the gray area that i pause.
I feel like this is a gray area, although I know i can do it... just worried that i dont see any good DIY videos online to use a reference.


Mechanical is easier for me. HP tuners... no way jose
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2022 M6 ZLE: Katech CNC Ported Blower + Ported Heads + 103mm TB + Oil Pump + C5R Chain + Valve Covers + Coil Relocation
TSP VVT and DoD Delete Covers + LME Chain Guide + DSX Billet Lid + ATI Damper + 9.17" Lower + 2.4" Upper + MM Wild CC
Coated ARH + AWE Touring + Magnaflow Center X + E85 + MSD Coils + Banks iDash + JMS Booster + Synergy Fender Tank
ALL the RED Rear End BMR Goodies + JRE Terminator Cam Package + Remote Tuning and Moral Support from TED @ JRE
BMR Motor Mounts + DMS Front HX + FIC 30's + APEX SM.10's + 305/345 R888R's = 770rwhp 785rwtq @E50 13.5psi
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Old 05-20-2022, 11:11 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chippy View Post
I enjoy modding as well and have taken on many projects for my self and stuff my son and I could do together on his FRS. However, some things I feel are best left to a person with experience and all the tools needs to make job simpler. Example, sure I could learn HP Tuners but I would rather pay a tuner who has tuned many cars if that makes sense.
I wouldn’t go for the cam swap myself however look forward to your write up if you try it. Good luck
I agree with this. I’m totally down for minor R&R projects in the garage but I’m trusting an experienced and reliable shop for a cam swap.
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