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Old 10-12-2023, 09:24 AM   #1
jd2021
 
Drives: 2023 Camaro SS1LE
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: CO
Posts: 57
Rotating Assembly and Misc Questions

Hello All!
Just because I like dreaming about building my car, I've been trying to do some research about some engine components. I've been looking into things such as the Mast L8T rotating assembly (https://www.mastmotorsports.com/coll...402-cubic-inch) to build the bottom end out. I tried reaching out to them but have not gotten a response yet. I'm wondering if anyone has any information for the following questions:

Does anyone know the strength of the L8T vs LT1 or LT4 crank?

Does anyone know how strong the rods/pistons are in the Mast rotating assembly package?

I was also looking at getting the Factory Mast heads, as I do want to spin the engine a little more (7k) and don't really want to port the stock heads because of the valve seat issues. Does anyone have any info on these heads and how good they actually are compared to other offerings (https://www.mastmotorsports.com/coll...ad-medbore-cnc)

I also plan to cam as well and that's why I don't want to go stock heads with a port.

Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2023, 03:06 PM   #2
jlaudio11
 
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Drives: Chevy Camaro
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: IN
Posts: 193
L8t is factory forged just like LT1. It does have center counter weights where the LT1 doesn't. I spun a rod bearing and cracked the journal on my factory LT1 crank. I couldn't find a new replacement so I bought an L8T crank from scoggin dickey, paired it with some drop in rods and pistons from Texas speed and it's been great. Scoggin dickey has made a lot of power with the L8T platform with alot of it posted online.
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'20 Camaro LT1
Twin 67/62 turbo 401(L8t) Texas speed forged piston & rod, BTR stg1 turbo cam, holley ultra lo, port injection, circle d 3600 stall, hoosier bias ply quick time pro's on racestar recluse wheels
1.45 4.01 6.07@120.74 9.28@153.43
'94 Camaro Z28 6mt cc306 cam, 4:10's, longtubes with x pipe, getting an engine rebuild
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Old 10-15-2023, 01:29 AM   #3
oldman


 
Drives: SS 6 speed of course
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hilo, HI
Posts: 4,322
LT1 undercut journals, last rod journal aka crankpin is hollow
LT4 rolled, filleted, solid last crankpin
L8T undercut journals, solid last crankpin fully counter weight.

IMO any would be fine up and over 7000 RPM, my forged LT1 with stock crank has a fuel cut at 7300 RPM just so I can run 0-60 times in first gear M6 for no particular reason. The crank should not fail at this RPM within reason.

Nutshell the last crankpin being solid is more of torque issues.. not RPM

Head, IMO it ain't the RPM that hammers the seat, it is high lift cams with poor ramp designs. I have a custom cam motion sub .600 lift cam with some decent duration and the motor pulls to fuel cut without a whimper. I will probably bolt on a HighRam vs my MSD in the near future just to make use of the RPM breather and I just want to cut a hole in the hood just because. So I don't care who makes the head, if the cam profile sucks then bad things happen. I personally would never run a cam above .600 lift on a daily driven street car... I live through the LS valvetrain wars, got suckered back into the LT valve train wars and will die sub .600 lift for the longevity win written on my grave stone.
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.

Last edited by oldman; 10-18-2023 at 02:02 PM.
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