Low budget high hp motor build? I BROKE IT! - Page 3

laynlo15 · 02-01-2018, 04:45 AM

He's been through a few fuel systems already with different setups. Not sure, but I'm pretty sure he's running 16 injectors now.

parish8 · 02-01-2018, 05:35 AM

Every thing I have is in the links in my sig. lt4 stuff, aux inline low pressure pumps and port injection.

DFW1LE · 02-01-2018, 09:59 AM

What cam profile are you going with?

parish8 · 02-01-2018, 10:47 AM

230/238 .635/.635 116 LSA 114 ICL +32%

I like to play with the calculators and am hoping the cam makes up for the loss of 1 point in compression. I have been seeing between 28 and 32 hp for each 1lb of atmosphere.

oldman · 02-01-2018, 10:57 AM

I would be interested to know the problems of studs on the bottom end?

parish8 · 02-01-2018, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldman

I would be interested to know the problems of studs on the bottom end?

The info I have found says they will change the shape of the bearing and require a line hone.

DFW1LE · 02-01-2018, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parish8

230/238 .635/.635 116 LSA 114 ICL +32%

I like to play with the calculators and am hoping the cam makes up for the loss of 1 point in compression. I have been seeing between 28 and 32 hp for each 1lb of atmosphere.

Should be strong, with good drivability. Only 2* of overlap.

Joe's_cool_1le · 02-01-2018, 04:35 PM

Definitely taking notes.

parish8 · 02-03-2018, 10:17 AM

Made a little progress last night. I am waiting on a dod delete valley cover and then adjust and install the hpfp and injectors. Then I can start putting it back in the car.

I did weigh the stock pistons/rod set up and the new set up. Both 3lb 1.75oz but my scale only goes to 1/4 oz increments.

boostednut · 02-07-2018, 10:12 PM

Looking good Parish.

I think the best budget build would be a cam, and regapped rings. Or even just a cam... Then the layer after that would be just new pistons (drop in pistons). That would be the cheapest way to up the power ability of the engine. A cam will do wonders for stock setup as you can drop the DCR a ton and really help keep the rings cool. And if you can shift the power to the right some to boot, that will help reduce the peak cylinder load. I can only imagine that will help the rings.

I think Parish you're doing it the best budget "right way." I can't say I'd upgrade the rods, but really nothing wrong with doing that if you have the money.

Then from there I'd just use lt4 gaskets and lt4 head bolts. (edit apparently lt4 gaskets don't work on the lt1)

Looking good man. Gonna be a killer setup

shinysun · 02-08-2018, 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boostednut

Looking good Parish.

I think the best budget build would be a cam, and regapped rings. Or even just a cam... Then the layer after that would be just new pistons (drop in pistons). That would be the cheapest way to up the power ability of the engine. A cam will do wonders for stock setup as you can drop the DCR a ton and really help keep the rings cool. And if you can shift the power to the right some to boot, that will help reduce the peak cylinder load. I can only imagine that will help the rings.

I think Parish you're doing it the best budget "right way." I can't say I'd upgrade the rods, but really nothing wrong with doing that if you have the money.

Then from there I'd just use lt4 gaskets and lt4 head bolts.

Looking good man. Gonna be a killer setup

Can I use lt4 gasket on lt1? I was told it won't be fit.

boostednut · 02-08-2018, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shinysun

Can I use lt4 gasket on lt1? I was told it won't be fit.

If you were told it doesn't work then it doesn't work.

I thought I saw that the lt1/lt4 aftermarket gaskets are the same. And that the primary differences between the engines are material. Maybe there's some kind of cooling passage difference. Maybe someone else can chime in, I don't want to tell someone the wrong info.

Choda · 05-08-2019, 12:32 PM

what did you gap the rings at?

parish8 · 05-08-2019, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Choda

what did you gap the rings at?

This is what I was told.

“Set your ring gaps the .026” top and .032” second. Run a vr1 or rotella t for 500 miles.. fire it up, hold it at 2-2500 rpm for a minute to get some heat in the rings and your good.. beat on it”

Car is running good 1100rwhp on a mustang dyno at 22psi. 155 in the 1/4 at 20psi. I will likely bump the power until something breaks

02-01-2018, 04:45 AM	#29
laynlo15 Drives: 2022 Lt1 A10 Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: clark, mo Posts: 8,860	He's been through a few fuel systems already with different setups. Not sure, but I'm pretty sure he's running 16 injectors now. __________________ 2022 Lt1 6.2 A10, Maggie 2300, THPSI Port Inj/10 rib, Rotofab, E, Nickey, SCOL, Griptech, RC Bandits, Hoosiers/MT 9.80@142.96 1.44 60ft, 6.34@112 707/669 RWHP/TRQ. 16SS Maggie 2650 9.41@147 1.35 60ft, 5.99@119. 16 C7 A8 10.90@128 Bolt on stuff

02-01-2018, 05:35 AM	#30
parish8 Drives: 17 SS a8 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: omaha Posts: 1,678	Every thing I have is in the links in my sig. lt4 stuff, aux inline low pressure pumps and port injection. __________________ dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3 best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472

02-01-2018, 09:59 AM	#31
DFW1LE Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Mosiac Black Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 1,132	What cam profile are you going with? __________________ ________________________________________________ Frankenstein Engineering Dynamics Stage 1 H/C/E85 536HP/488TQ

02-01-2018, 10:47 AM	#32
parish8 Drives: 17 SS a8 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: omaha Posts: 1,678	230/238 .635/.635 116 LSA 114 ICL +32% I like to play with the calculators and am hoping the cam makes up for the loss of 1 point in compression. I have been seeing between 28 and 32 hp for each 1lb of atmosphere. __________________ dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3 best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472 Last edited by parish8; 02-01-2018 at 10:58 AM.

02-01-2018, 10:57 AM	#33
oldman Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Hilo, HI Posts: 4,316	I would be interested to know the problems of studs on the bottom end? __________________ Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.

02-01-2018, 04:35 PM	#36
Joe's_cool_1le Drives: Black 2017 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Virginia Beach Posts: 1,319	Definitely taking notes. __________________ 2017 1LE SS Black - Mods - Forged - lowered compression - BTR custom Cam - Whipple, 3.500 upper and 8.0 lower pulley, Roto-Fab, 1 7/8 Kooks headers, off road pipes, & 3" Kooks full exhaust. LT4 fuel system, with Alky single nozzle running 100% meth. (not installed yet) DSX Tuning flex fuel and DSX tuning Aux pump

02-03-2018, 10:17 AM	#37
parish8 Drives: 17 SS a8 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: omaha Posts: 1,678	Made a little progress last night. I am waiting on a dod delete valley cover and then adjust and install the hpfp and injectors. Then I can start putting it back in the car. I did weigh the stock pistons/rod set up and the new set up. Both 3lb 1.75oz but my scale only goes to 1/4 oz increments. Attached Images __________________ dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3 best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472

02-07-2018, 10:12 PM	#38
boostednut Drives: Nothing cool atm Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: California Posts: 138	Looking good Parish. I think the best budget build would be a cam, and regapped rings. Or even just a cam... Then the layer after that would be just new pistons (drop in pistons). That would be the cheapest way to up the power ability of the engine. A cam will do wonders for stock setup as you can drop the DCR a ton and really help keep the rings cool. And if you can shift the power to the right some to boot, that will help reduce the peak cylinder load. I can only imagine that will help the rings. I think Parish you're doing it the best budget "right way." I can't say I'd upgrade the rods, but really nothing wrong with doing that if you have the money. Then from there I'd just use lt4 gaskets and lt4 head bolts. (edit apparently lt4 gaskets don't work on the lt1) Looking good man. Gonna be a killer setup Last edited by boostednut; 02-08-2018 at 12:56 AM.

05-08-2019, 12:32 PM	#41
Choda Drives: Turbo 6.2 Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Buffalo Posts: 702	what did you gap the rings at?

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