[ruffryderj]

What’s the biggest cam you can run in a automatic without needing a stall converter?

[danhr]

You can run as big as you want, it just wont frint out the full potential of the cam.

[ruffryderj]

Some people say with a big cam and stock converter the car will try to go forward when your on the brakes.

[MR 45TH]

Remember when it comes to cams, bigger isn’t always better!

[ruffryderj]

Yeah I get that but $4500 I want to push it as far i can or just add some more with it and get a procharger.

[KingLT1]

biggest cam you can run with the stock converter is something like a tsp VVT-SV 223/227 116. much larger and it starts pulling on the brakes because the cam needs more idle rpm. You might get away with largerwith a competent tuner. Talk to Pray performance or GPI.

[JFM-jr]

Pray put a pretty healthy cam in a guy Tony Moffre's car with a stock converter. It can be done be done but tuning for drivability is a challenge. I know the guy Tony is very happy with the car. Most like to idle around 850ish wich on the stock converter can sometimes make for some wanky low speed drivability even with the best of tuners. The motor will more than likely come out for the cam install (if they want the job to be easier in the long run) and the converter is staring at you. The other thing is the stock converter is not really gonna get a cammed motor off the ground to its power range in any hurry things can tend to seem lazy until the cam gets lit.

[PRAY]

Idle rpm determines the pull on the converter. You can do lots of weird stuff with cams to determine the idle rpm. Tony's cam is actually really small. 223/23x on a 111. But the OL requires more idle rpm so it is happy at 850rpm. The cam in the blower car is 227/24x 115 and will idle happily at 750rpm but runs much better at 850rpm. The cam I just put in my car (no specs will be given) will idle at 850rpm but is a little happier at 900rpm. So all of these cams will "work" on a stock converter. The problem is the stock converter being basically locked for all of the down shifting events. They become violent on the 2/1 or 3/1.

The main issue with a cammed car and a stock converter is that they SUCK out of the hole. Take Tony's car for example. Baby cam that makes tons of tq (for a cammed car) and pulls hard up top. Couple that cam with a ported MSD that kills low end as well and the car simply can't get out of it's own way for the first 100ft or so of the track. That car ran 10.94@128.6 last weekend in +2,500 DA on a 28" Mickey R. Best 60ft all in was a 1.70. I had tow bolt on cars there that ran 11.0's@124. 60fts were in the high 1.5 bottom 1.6. Even though Tony's car had 4mph on those cars the 60ft killed us. The two FBO cars are on the stock converters, 26" tires with ported stock IM/TB's. Put a 4C in Tony's car and we would have gone 10.6's@130 pretty easily. So, all that extra power couldn't make up for the lag out of the hole.

[PRAY]

The other problem you will find with a cam and stock converter is that the cam will flatten out in gear. So no lope. The load from the converter kills it. I only bring it up is I can't figure out why anyone would run a cam with no converter if it wasn't for the sound. I guess if you were roll racing you may get away with a stock converter.

[WhiteNight]

Originally Posted by PRAY

Idle rpm determines the pull on the converter. You can do lots of weird stuff with cams to determine the idle rpm. Tony's cam is actually really small. 223/23x on a 111. But the OL requires more idle rpm so it is happy at 850rpm. The cam in the blower car is 227/24x 115 and will idle happily at 750rpm but runs much better at 850rpm. The cam I just put in my car (no specs will be given) will idle at 850rpm but is a little happier at 900rpm. So all of these cams will "work" on a stock converter. The problem is the stock converter being basically locked for all of the down shifting events. They become violent on the 2/1 or 3/1.

The main issue with a cammed car and a stock converter is that they SUCK out of the hole. Take Tony's car for example. Baby cam that makes tons of tq (for a cammed car) and pulls hard up top. Couple that cam with a ported MSD that kills low end as well and the car simply can't get out of it's own way for the first 100ft or so of the track. That car ran 10.94@128.6 last weekend in +2,500 DA on a 28" Mickey R. Best 60ft all in was a 1.70. I had tow bolt on cars there that ran 11.0's@124. 60fts were in the high 1.5 bottom 1.6. Even though Tony's car had 4mph on those cars the 60ft killed us. The two FBO cars are on the stock converters, 26" tires with ported stock IM/TB's. Put a 4C in Tony's car and we would have gone 10.6's@130 pretty easily. So, all that extra power couldn't make up for the lag out of the hole.

Is this during manual downshifting for engine breaking or when the car does it automatically and keeps it around 1000 RPM when slowing?

[PRAY]

Does it in Drive.

[ruffryderj]

I guess I will be better off going with the procharger or whipple

[PRAY]

If you're stuck on the stock converter then do a PD blower.

[ruffryderj]

I’m just trying to make the most power for the money