[Checkmate1]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

It's not as simple as only turning the camber plates. It is partly affected by what you camber was prior to moving anything. You may still have to fine tune the camber via the strut to knuckle connection. Temporarily install a 10mmx1.5 bolt or set screw in the threads at the top of the knuckle (below pic), lightly seating it against the strut. Loosen the two large lower strut bolts. The upper hole in the strut is slotted allowing for fine camber adjustment. Turn the 10mmx1.5 bolt in (clockwise) to reduce the negative camber, out (counter-clockwise) to increase. This works best when you have the suspension loaded. What I do is I place a jack under the rotor and compress the suspension slightly. This keeps the knuckle and strut kinda loaded tight against each other. It makes for more accurate adjustments. One turn of the adjuster bolt yields approximately .4* of camber. Keep the jack under the rotor and tighten the two large lower strut bolts to spec. Remove the 10mmx1.5 bolt.

Attachment 1067051

The Gen6 two large strut bolts most likely need to be hammered out of the knuckle to the point where their splines are out of the knuckle. Do not completely remove the bolts. I say "most likely" because some have said there is no need to hammer them out. In my experience of doing an alignment on my friend's SS 1LE, we did have to hammer out the bolts so the knuckle would be free to move.

Of course doing it the way described above isn't how an alignment shop may do it. I do my own alignments and I aware of how I can hone in on my #s with the tire removed. It is possible to loosen the two large bolts without removing the tire. But it is important to temporarily install the 10mmx1.5 bolt,, this is what gives you the fine adjustability. A good alignment tech can do this fine tuning without drama. The tough part is find those good techs

Any camber change up front will change the toe. Adding more negative camber will, on the Gen5/6 Camaro, create more toe out. Just turning the camber plates at will, between max camber and street camber will change the total toe. Some find a happy medium that still is not exactly "happy" for one side or the other.

I wouldn't sweat the front toe movement from your total toe spec of .05* that moved to .02*. This is a difference of .013" which is very minor. I could see that as just a tolerance variable somewhere. But what is also showing is the LF is toed out, while the RF is toed in. That out/in difference could be as simple as the steering wheel not perfectly straight. On the rear toe movement, the SPL parts will fix that.

Thanks so much for the information. Appreciate you taking the time to write this up with the picture!

[foshjowler]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

What toe do you run at the front?

I run 0 toe front and rear.

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by foshjowler

I run 0 toe front and rear.

How is the 2.0 T on track? I bet it's a fun car, less scary and great handling and better running costs.

What tires and sizes do you run on track?

[Crushed 1LE]

Does any one have the GM track specific alignment guide. I'd like to compare it to the number that others have posted in this thread and others. Thanks

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Crushed 1LE

Does any one have the GM track specific alignment guide. I'd like to compare it to the number that others have posted in this thread and others. Thanks

It's in the track prep guide you can download from my.chevrolet.com, but here is the relevant page from my 2018 version, I don't think anything in here changed for 2019:

[wakespeak]

Back to post #58:

Effects of toe-in and toe-out
There is one more effect of camber that we haven’t mentioned yet. If you roll a free tire at an angle, it would want to follow an elliptical trajectory instead of a straight line. In other words: an angled tire wants to turn. The force that causes this effect is called camber thrust. This results in a bit more friction, heat and wear, which can be offset by a toe-out adjustment. You can also use a toe-out adjustment to get the slip angles of the front tires in a more optimal spot. So you’d typically run some toe-out on the fronts.

https://virtualracingschool.com/acad...ps/camber-toe/

[RamAir02]

Resurrecting this thread since it seems to have the best discussion about ZLE alignment.

Here is another set of SC3Rs I just took off. Corded inside left front again with the GM recommended alignment settings. I'm considering whether to stick to those alignment settings for my next event or adjust based on people's feedback here.

After reading through this thread again, I am wondering if I push too much first session with cold tires resulting in this wear -- I go out on 26 psi. So I think the play here is to try the GM alignment settings again and be more conscious about abusing cold tires. But I'm also open to trying a different alignment. Sounds like some folks have had success with slight negative toe as opposed to the GM recommended slight positive toe.

[Crushed 1LE]

Heading to the track on Friday. Brand new 3Rs.

Running -3.5 camber and 0.1 positive toe. I'll report my findings.

[BROCKgoFAST]

Originally Posted by RamAir02

Resurrecting this thread since it seems to have the best discussion about ZLE alignment.

Here is another set of SC3Rs I just took off. Corded inside left front again with the GM recommended alignment settings. I'm considering whether to stick to those alignment settings for my next event or adjust based on people's feedback here.

After reading through this thread again, I am wondering if I push too much first session with cold tires resulting in this wear -- I go out on 26 psi. So I think the play here is to try the GM alignment settings again and be more conscious about abusing cold tires. But I'm also open to trying a different alignment. Sounds like some folks have had success with slight negative toe as opposed to the GM recommended slight positive toe.

Damn and there is quite a bit of tread left. I thought the outside of the tire was what we see cord first! I did talk to a really good GM Camaro Performance shop at my last Sebring event and he said the GM settings are for good drivers that can get some good times out for the car but not for really fast guys using almost all of the car/tire.

He actually told me if im not going out to win a race he said start higher in the PSI like 30-31psi cold and you will get way more life out of the tires. It wont be the most grip but you will get a more track time on the tires.

[AZ_1LE]

I think the consensus has been that the tires will cord on the inside mainly from driving the car too hard before the tires are up to temp (and pressure). Need to bring them up to temp semi-slowly before really hammering on them.

[RamAir02]

Originally Posted by BROCKgoFAST

Damn and there is quite a bit of tread left. I thought the outside of the tire was what we see cord first! I did talk to a really good GM Camaro Performance shop at my last Sebring event and he said the GM settings are for good drivers that can get some good times out for the car but not for really fast guys using almost all of the car/tire.

He actually told me if im not going out to win a race he said start higher in the PSI like 30-31psi cold and you will get way more life out of the tires. It wont be the most grip but you will get a more track time on the tires.

Originally Posted by AZ_1LE

I think the consensus has been that the tires will cord on the inside mainly from driving the car too hard before the tires are up to temp (and pressure). Need to bring them up to temp semi-slowly before really hammering on them.

Yeah, I think this is why I'm leaning towards sticking with the GM alignment specs again for another round, going out with a bit higher pressure, bleeding off as needed once they warm up and being more aware of not pushing too hard on cold tires. I'll see how the tires wear and if I'm running into the same issue, I can try different alignment specs next time.

[Zl1+911]

Also to maximize the front life you should rotate left to right every 3-5 sessions. And inside out every 6-8 (1 -2 days).

[RamAir02]

Originally Posted by Zl1+911

Also to maximize the front life you should rotate left to right every 3-5 sessions. And inside out every 6-8 (1 -2 days).

This I do! Well I rotate side to side. Tire chalk comes in handy for keeping track. I haven't flipped the tire on the rim.

[tomster]

Originally Posted by RamAir02

Resurrecting this thread since it seems to have the best discussion about ZLE alignment.

Here is another set of SC3Rs I just took off. Corded inside left front again with the GM recommended alignment settings. I'm considering whether to stick to those alignment settings for my next event or adjust based on people's feedback here.

After reading through this thread again, I am wondering if I push too much first session with cold tires resulting in this wear -- I go out on 26 psi. So I think the play here is to try the GM alignment settings again and be more conscious about abusing cold tires. But I'm also open to trying a different alignment. Sounds like some folks have had success with a slight negative toe as opposed to the GM recommended slight positive toe.

YES these tires will have grip just a half a lap in, but when you start at 26psi and begin pushing it because the tires grip this is what happens... I start at 33. they will be 40ish when I come off track. then I drop them to 36 and try to maintain 36 the rest of the day.

After I started doing that my tires stopped wearing like yours. My best times are always the second run of the day when the tires have cooled slightly from the first run.
Remember 2-tenths is not worth the wear and the average driver has more to gain learning the car and track than they will ever gain from running the tires at optimal pressures.