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Old 11-11-2023, 05:07 PM   #1
Annihilate
 
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Basic starting kit for washing and detailing?

Hello, looking to wash my car before storage, as one does.

I've seen a lot of threads about a lot of different techniques however I'm looking for a simple basic "start up" guide.

Essentially I'm a bit nervous of washing, as the dealer already introduced swirls/light scratches to the paint.

So here is what I'm asking for specifically.

Exterior:

Type of sponges I need and how many
Types of towels I need and how many
Best bucket for washing
Best product for washing

Interior:

Safest brushes to use for tight spots
Best tool for windshield/rear window
Best product(s) for interior cleaning


I'm assuming I'd be able to use whatever towels I use on the outside to use on the inside.

I'm trying to keep this simple to start out and keep the price under $150 for everything.

Would love some suggestions/consensus

Planning on paint correction/ppf/ceramic? Come spring.

Thanks!
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Old 11-11-2023, 05:23 PM   #2
Gunkk
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Exterior:

Type of sponges I need and how many - I use zero sponges, which are way too abrasive and collect too much grit and difficult to keep clean between uses. I use a Chemical Guys Chenille wash mitt. Works great. Get a pack of cheapo low-pile microfiber towels in whatever colors you want. These low pile MF towels are for washing wheels, grille, tailpies, and body panels that face the ground (splitter, rockers, diffuser, etc.). Also good for washing wheels and grillework is the Chemical Guys Gerbil brush. Maybe $25-30 for all of this.

Types of towels I need and how many - The Ragg Company Eagle Edgeless 500g/sf in whatever sizes/colors you want to standardize for various parts of the car (wet and/or dry surfaces). Start with a half-dozen, then buy another half-dozen. I use a pair of waffle-weave towels like this one for drying. All of this including the wash mitt goes in the washing machine when done. Maybe $40-50.

Better than drying with towels is a battery operated leaf blower for water removal (after the pooling rinse of course). Not in your budget, but if you're gonna buy one anyway.... Then with what little is left on the paint, you can do a drying detail with Carpro Reload, Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax spray or whatever water-based detail spray of your choice.

Best bucket for washing - two 5gal of any type, but the most important is a pair of grit guards for both. One is clean, one is dirty = Garry Dean method. Grit guards is where you'll spend the $ here.

Best product for washing - Adams Car Shampoo and Carpro Reset are both good at cleaning and rinsing without leaving residues. $15-20 per bottle and lasts a long time.

Interior:

Safest brushes to use for tight spots - I use this one which is 100% plastic and will not scratch wheels, grillwork or plastic, etc.

Best product(s) for interior cleaning - Sonax for alcantara. Whatever else you want for anything else. Windex for glass.


Pro tips:
  • Over spray sucks. So never spray the car directly with any cleaning product. Always spray the rag first, while pointing AWAY from the car. Then wipe the car.
  • NEVER, EVER drag a dry towel across dry paint. Always use a lube like water or a detail spray to help lubricate and minimize paint damage.
  • The Museum Rule: The less you touch a thing, the longer it lasts. Self-healing PPF is awesome because you never touch the paint (all contact is with the film) and any swirls you do make in the film will go away on their own.


Last edited by Gunkk; 11-11-2023 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 11-11-2023, 05:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunkk View Post
Exterior:

Type of sponges I need and how many - I use zero sponges, which are way too abrasive and collect too much grit and difficult to keep clean between uses. I use a Chemical Guys Chenille wash mitt. Works great. Get a pack of cheapo low-pile microfiber towels in whatever colors you want. These low pile MF towels are for washing wheels, grille, tailpies, and body panels that face the ground (splitter, rockers, diffuser, etc.). Also good for washing wheels and grillework is the Chemical Guys Gerbil brush. Maybe $25-30 for all of this.

Types of towels I need and how many - The Ragg Company Eagle Edgeless 500g/sf in whatever sizes/colors you want to standardize for various parts of the car (wet and/or dry surfaces). Start with a half-dozen, then buy another half-dozen. I use a pair of waffle-weave towels like this one for drying. All of this including the wash mitt goes in the washing machine when done. Maybe $40-50.

Better than drying with towels is a battery operated leaf blower for water removal (after the pooling rinse of course). Not in your budget, but if you're gonna buy one anyway.... Then with what little is left on the paint, you can do a drying detail with Carpro Reload, Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax spray or whatever water-based detail spray of your choice.

Best bucket for washing - two 5gal of any type, but the most important is a pair of grit guards for both. One is clean, one is dirty = Garry Dean method. Grit guards is where you'll spend the $ here.

Best product for washing - Adams Car Shampoo and Carpro Reset are both good at cleaning and rinsing without leaving residues. $15-20 per bottle and lasts a long time.

Interior:

Safest brushes to use for tight spots - I use this one which is 100% plastic and will not scratch wheels, grillwork or plastic, etc.

Best product(s) for interior cleaning - Sonax for alcantara. Whatever else you want for anything else. Windex for glass.


Pro tips:
  • Over spray sucks. So never spray the car directly with any cleaning product. Always spray the rag first, while pointing AWAY from the car. Then wipe the car.
  • NEVER, EVER drag a dry towel across dry paint. Always use a lube like water or a detail spray to help lubricate and minimize paint damage.
  • The Museum Rule: The less you touch a thing, the longer it lasts. Self-healing PPF is awesome because you never touch the paint (all contact is with the film) and any swirls you do make in the film will go away on their own.


Awesome man, thanks. Gonna go and get all this now. Planning on one more week of driving before putting her away.

Would these be fine for the microfiber towels?https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09KG...F64ZIPJZ&psc=1

Also for interior panels on a standard 2ss, seats and dash plastics, what have you. Are there any tried and true products you use? I've had experience with products taking out the dye of certain things and would like to avoid that.
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Last edited by Annihilate; 11-11-2023 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 11-13-2023, 04:58 AM   #4
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I got a big multipack of cheapo seamless/edgeless MF towels off the shelf at a local walmart. I don't like hemmed seams as they can be abrasive. No fancy towels here... just cheap rags for cleaning the really dirty bits of the car, like 3 or 4 towels per dollar like these. That way when you drop one in the sand it's no big deal to toss it in the trash or downgrade to household duty.

Same rags get used on the interior with your cleaning product of choice. Dark colors are for exterior dirty bits, light colored rags for interior. Armor all on the vinyl and Lexol for the leather.

For clear plastics and screens I will use one of the plush Eagle Edgeless towels with distilled water or soapy-water only (no chemicals). The clear dash gauge cover is soft acrylic so be careful.

Last edited by Gunkk; 11-13-2023 at 05:20 AM.
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Old 11-16-2023, 08:22 AM   #6
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And if you want to go with pressure washing and a foam cannon, these will get you there. Don't have to buy the hose, but the one that comes with the washer is only 20ft.. and the 50ft comes with quick connects as well...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18...1802/317623149
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088MF6N3R...t_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09V15V5TD...t_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QHV6FBZ...roduct_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9ZD18T...roduct_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPY1CLW...t_details&th=1
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Old 11-16-2023, 02:29 PM   #7
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I will say that while I've always been a Meguiars guy with few exceptions, I picked up a chenille wash mitt from Harbor Freight (Grant's brand), and it is probably the nicest I've used. Cheaper than a fancy cup of coffee, that's for sure.


https://www.harborfreight.com/ultra-...itt-59676.html


I like the Cobra Guzzler drying towels, which I've picked up from AutoGeek in the past. Their website has been a bit wonky for me lately though, I've wanted to order some things from them and it has either been mysteriously out of stock or the shipping has been having problems, so you might want to look elsewhere for that. Make sure to pick up some quick detailer too in order to dampen the towels before you dry, which will help dry faster, prevent hard water spots, and increase the absorbancy of the towels.


FWIW, I know this is about a basic starting kit, but I've found that using a leaf blower is a nice way to dry quickly and avoid water spots. There is some controversy about using a gas blower and I've heard that it can add contaminants to the paint, so I guess if you had an electric one handy that would by ideal.


I also have found that using the hose nozzle itself for the final rinse rather than spraying the car helps to reduce the amount of water that stays on the car, the sheeting action of the water at low pressure gets the soap off without using a lot of unnecessary water, which helps the drying go faster.

Last edited by Deacon Blues; 11-16-2023 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 11-20-2023, 01:25 AM   #8
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After years of car detailing, I only pressure wash and dry with a leaf blower. I rarely touch the paint with micro-fibre towels and the car shows fantastic every time.

Once a year I compound and polish but my secret weapon is finishing with Klasse high gloss sealant glaze (acrylic glass). Klasse lasts one year and you only apply 2 oz to the entire vehicle with a dual action polisher.
  • 3M 05954 Super Duty Rubbing Compound
  • 3M 06094 Perfect-it EX Machine Polish or
  • Farecla G360 Superfast Finish

I discovered several car detailing tips and tricks from, The Complete Guide to A Show Car Shine by Mike Phillips.

The take-away from Mike is how to fold your towel for protecting your paint from swirls and of course car detailing for show room quality.

For interior, 303 Aerospace Protectant for all Rubber, Plastic and Leather

For the ragtop or fabric, 303 Aerospace Protectant for Fabric

Last edited by Roddrz; 11-20-2023 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 11-21-2023, 09:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roddrz View Post
After years of car detailing, I only pressure wash and dry with a leaf blower. I rarely touch the paint with micro-fibre towels and the car shows fantastic every time.

Glad I'm not the only person doing this, I get weird looks from people driving or walking by but the results speak for themselves.
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Old 01-31-2024, 10:46 PM   #10
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It is cheap but effective for storing it inside for short periods. They are also inexpensive enough that you never have to put a dirty one on. https://www.ebay.com/itm/383171837753
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Old 02-01-2024, 07:36 AM   #11
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I have been doing this for 18years and they make fantastic stuff. Its the first time in all my years I bought a whole line and basically all I use anymore. Their coatings are some of the easiest to use as well. I have used in the past Carpro Cquartz, Optimum goss coat, Gyenon MOHS evo, Gyeno can coat, Diamond Protech Body, Gtechniq CSL and Gtechniq Exo v1-5. I now only use DIY coatings as they are the easiest to work with
https://diydetail.com/collections/car-care-kits
The kits will give you an idea what to buy.
Dont be afraid of a sponge that is MADE for the use. I rinseless wash my cars about 95% time and only use a rinseless sponge and it does zero marring when used correctly.
Also watch their youtube channel to learn as well. There are to many things to try and type it all out
https://www.youtube.com/@diydetailofficial

Alos dont use a car cover unless you wanna scratch your paint. Its easier to clean off dust than to keep going back to fix all the marring a cover will do. People who say covers dont scratch are the same ones pulling out those dusters out of the trunk and tearing up the paint at shows thinking they are making it look good



Also this tip up above
"Pro tips:
NEVER, EVER drag a dry towel across dry paint. Always use a lube like water or a detail spray to help lubricate and minimize paint damage."

water is NOT a lubricant. If you only use water and a towel you will eventually start to marr th paint. Always dry with a drying aid like a quick detailer or spray sealant

ohh and here is my setup at home just to show I am not just throwing advice out and not really knowledgable about the topic and also not recommending something that I dont use myself
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...59&postcount=3
__________________
2022 1SS 1LE 6M in Riverside blue
Found exact build local- ETA 7/31/22
New ETA - 7/26, 7/30, 7/31, 8/1, 8/8, 8/15, 8/21, 8/28, 9/17
8/24. IT HAS ARRIVED at the dealer
8/25- It is in the Garage
ACS ZL1 Sideskirts, 20% tint, CAI Intake

Last edited by 22SS1LE; 02-01-2024 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 02-05-2024, 07:59 PM   #12
drewleague
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22SS1LE View Post
I have been doing this for 18years and they make fantastic stuff. Its the first time in all my years I bought a whole line and basically all I use anymore. Their coatings are some of the easiest to use as well. I have used in the past Carpro Cquartz, Optimum goss coat, Gyenon MOHS evo, Gyeno can coat, Diamond Protech Body, Gtechniq CSL and Gtechniq Exo v1-5. I now only use DIY coatings as they are the easiest to work with
https://diydetail.com/collections/car-care-kits
The kits will give you an idea what to buy.
Dont be afraid of a sponge that is MADE for the use. I rinseless wash my cars about 95% time and only use a rinseless sponge and it does zero marring when used correctly.
Also watch their youtube channel to learn as well. There are to many things to try and type it all out
https://www.youtube.com/@diydetailofficial

Alos dont use a car cover unless you wanna scratch your paint. Its easier to clean off dust than to keep going back to fix all the marring a cover will do. People who say covers dont scratch are the same ones pulling out those dusters out of the trunk and tearing up the paint at shows thinking they are making it look good



Also this tip up above
"Pro tips:
NEVER, EVER drag a dry towel across dry paint. Always use a lube like water or a detail spray to help lubricate and minimize paint damage."

water is NOT a lubricant. If you only use water and a towel you will eventually start to marr th paint. Always dry with a drying aid like a quick detailer or spray sealant

ohh and here is my setup at home just to show I am not just throwing advice out and not really knowledgable about the topic and also not recommending something that I dont use myself
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...59&postcount=3
Since you have the 1le wheels, have you found a good brush for cleaning behind the spokes? I have good ones for the face and the barrel but nothing that does a good job cleaning the groove directly behind where the spokes meet the barrel
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Old 02-06-2024, 07:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewleague View Post
Since you have the 1le wheels, have you found a good brush for cleaning behind the spokes? I have good ones for the face and the barrel but nothing that does a good job cleaning the groove directly behind where the spokes meet the barrel
Video I made cleaning the wheels
Rinseless


or with a hose
__________________
2022 1SS 1LE 6M in Riverside blue
Found exact build local- ETA 7/31/22
New ETA - 7/26, 7/30, 7/31, 8/1, 8/8, 8/15, 8/21, 8/28, 9/17
8/24. IT HAS ARRIVED at the dealer
8/25- It is in the Garage
ACS ZL1 Sideskirts, 20% tint, CAI Intake
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Old 02-10-2024, 02:33 AM   #14
drewleague
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22SS1LE View Post
Video I made cleaning the wheels
Rinseless


or with a hose
Didn’t get an alert but thanks for this!
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