My luck blown motor??

[Rob10CamaroSS]

Sucks either way but much better off with an upper tap rather than a lower knock. Good Luck and as the saying goes, JUST COME BACK BIGGER AND BADDER

[InFiD3ViL]

Dude, you have had the absolute worst luck lately with this car. It really sucks to see this, I feel bad for you man. What was your normal idle pressure? I know each car is different. For instance with my new HV pump I idle at 42 psi and get up to 62 psi through the rpms. You look to be at about 10-12 psi.

Did you buy this car with a lot of modifications already or did you do them all yourself? Not insinuating at all, I am just curious if you inherited someone else's problems. What was your mileage when you cammed it? I hope your CHE's had nothing to do with this. I have a set on the way for my cam swap.

I seriously recommend you don't start it anymore, and certainly don't drive it. Seriously, just one more time can do it in and you don't need that. Let the shop take over from here.

[_Onyx_Wolf_]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Dude, you have had the absolute worst luck lately with this car. It really sucks to see this, I feel bad for you man. What was your normal idle pressure? I know each car is different. For instance with my new HV pump I idle at 42 psi and get up to 62 psi through the rpms. You look to be at about 10-12 psi.

Did you buy this car with a lot of modifications already or did you do them all yourself? Not insinuating at all, I am just curious if you inherited someone else's problems. What was your mileage when you cammed it? I hope your CHE's had nothing to do with this. I have a set on the way for my cam swap.

I seriously recommend you don't start it anymore, and certainly don't drive it. Seriously, just one more time can do it in and you don't need that. Let the shop take over from here.

For real man lol and I bought the car used stock form did everything pretty much except the cam and I cammed it around 40k miles maybe? Currently has 86k cam is a tick polluter. And It’s on its way to my tuner lol so we’ll see

[BIG NASST]

I was just reading about this on a cam install. it said if the camshaft thrust plate is loose or worked loose ,or the Orange O real seal is missing or damaged a loss of oil pressure will result, It will sound like loud marbles getting sucked through because it's sucking air with the oil I'm probably wrong just thought it were my 2 cents worth in.

[BIG NASST]

It also said if counter sunk boats were used and overtalked it could have cracked it the cover

[InFiD3ViL]

Actually just received my new plate today, countersunk OEM version. I'm going to make sure to red loctite that sucker.

Hopefully that is his issue or even less. I mean aside from having to remove the crank pulley, water pump, and front cover, and assuming it didn't allow the cam to walk too far. Should be an easy fix. Hopefully.

[Greenhornet2]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Actually just received my new plate today, countersunk OEM version. I'm going to make sure to red loctite that sucker.

Hopefully that is his issue or even less. I mean aside from having to remove the crank pulley, water pump, and front cover, and assuming it didn't allow the cam to walk too far. Should be an easy fix. Hopefully.

Don't use red, use blue

[Greenhornet2]

I've seen a few cam lobe failures on aftermarket cams that were not installed by the owner but by a shop. There seems to be this misconception out there that you don't need to break in a roller cam because it is roller, I don't believe that and have a feeling that is what is causing these cams to wipe lobes after 5k miles. If you need a cam be sure to follow a proper cam break in period. If it's the CHE trunnion kit let me know I have these installed as well. Thy made me a little nervous as the bushings did not press in, they fell right in the rockers. Now that may be by design as they have oil grooves cut out so maybe they are better at riding on a film of oil. They all went in exactly the same and all felt the same like they had a tiny bit of play. I will be keeping an eye out, or ear out and that will be the first thing I check if I have an issue.

[608RS]

hopefully just a broken spring as others have said, a simple compression test will tell you which cylinder it is. you could also try to VERY QUICKLY tap each exhaust runner with the back of your fingers to see which cylinder feels cold, that may help you speed up the diagnosis vs pulling 8 spark plugs to test.

good news is you still have oil pressure, hopefully it's a quick fix.

[_Onyx_Wolf_]

Thanks guys yeah I’m hoping for just a spring lol I have dual springs I believe so they should of held up? And I’m guessing if they failed is because I didn’t change them they had about 40k miles on them. Also here’s a video of it reving. https://youtu.be/0ytm0PDs-Rg

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

Don't use red, use blue

I was thinking about using the red so the bolts stay put without any thought to next time I need to remove them. Yea, red may be a bit much. What did you use on the cam bolts?

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

I've seen a few cam lobe failures on aftermarket cams that were not installed by the owner but by a shop. There seems to be this misconception out there that you don't need to break in a roller cam because it is roller, I don't believe that and have a feeling that is what is causing these cams to wipe lobes after 5k miles. If you need a cam be sure to follow a proper cam break in period. If it's the CHE trunnion kit let me know I have these installed as well. Thy made me a little nervous as the bushings did not press in, they fell right in the rockers. Now that may be by design as they have oil grooves cut out so maybe they are better at riding on a film of oil. They all went in exactly the same and all felt the same like they had a tiny bit of play. I will be keeping an eye out, or ear out and that will be the first thing I check if I have an issue.

From what I have read the CHE's are described as a floating bushing design, so that is normal and why they are considered a 'DIY at home' kit, with no press needed. Just that Circlip holding it in. I am just hoping those are some seriously premium circlips.

As for break in, I am already running high zinc content conventional Valvoline VR1 10w30 (per my builder's recommendation) since I had this engine rebuilt 1400 miles ago. I was going to switch to a normal synthetic at 1500 miles, but I will ask Ryan his recommendations for oil once I get the rest of the parts. I am hoping he just tells me to keep running this for a little while longer as a case of 6 qts is only $40 on Amazon and I have some left still. Valvoline also make a synthetic VR1 with the same zinc additive package, but I was considering going back to Mobil 1 EP 5w30.

Ryan/GPI is remote tuning mine, so no dyno break in/oil change after like normal. I will have to see what he says about intervals right after the swap. I don't know what a normal oil change schedule would be for when a dyno isn't involved. I don't think I am wording this right. You know how most places will change break in oil after the initial dyno pulls are done and then again at like 500 miles for example?

[Greenhornet2]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

I was thinking about using the red so the bolts stay put without any thought to next time I need to remove them. Yea, red may be a bit much. What did you use on the cam bolts?




From what I have read the CHE's are described as a floating bushing design, so that is normal and why they are considered a 'DIY at home' kit, with no press needed. Just that Circlip holding it in. I am just hoping those are some seriously premium circlips.

As for break in, I am already running high zinc content conventional Valvoline VR1 10w30 (per my builder's recommendation) since I had this engine rebuilt 1400 miles ago. I was going to switch to a normal synthetic at 1500 miles, but I will ask Ryan his recommendations for oil once I get the rest of the parts. I am hoping he just tells me to keep running this for a little while longer as a case of 6 qts is only $40 on Amazon and I have some left still. Valvoline also make a synthetic VR1 with the same zinc additive package, but I was considering going back to Mobil 1 EP 5w30.

Ryan/GPI is remote tuning mine, so no dyno break in/oil change after like normal. I will have to see what he says about intervals right after the swap. I don't know what a normal oil change schedule would be for when a dyno isn't involved. I don't think I am wording this right. You know how most places will change break in oil after the initial dyno pulls are done and then again at like 500 miles for example?

I used blue. no need for red just torque them correctly. The most important part of camshaft break in is the first 25-30 minutes imo. This is when the metals are first contacting each other and wearing into each other I used a calcium-sulfonate grease on the cam lobes on assembly. Break in 25 minutes 1800-2500 rpms varying the rpms in intervals. Change the oil. The 500 mile rule is more so for a new engine with ring break in. I will not likely change my oil again until 3k miles but added a ZDDP additive to my oil. NOT saying this is the absolute right way this is how I've done it for many cam swaps and have never had a cam failure. Others may differ slightly but I strongly believe the first 30 minutes is the MOST important part for the cam.

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by Greenhornet2

I used blue. no need for red just torque them correctly. The most important part of camshaft break in is the first 25-30 minutes imo. This is when the metals are first contacting each other and wearing into each other I used a calcium-sulfonate grease on the cam lobes on assembly. Break in 25 minutes 1800-2500 rpms varying the rpms in intervals. Change the oil. The 500 mile rule is more so for a new engine with ring break in. I will not likely change my oil again until 3k miles but added a ZDDP additive to my oil. NOT saying this is the absolute right way this is how I've done it for many cam swaps and have never had a cam failure. Others may differ slightly but I strongly believe the first 30 minutes is the MOST important part for the cam.

Ok cool, thank you. Just got my cam today. I was confused as Cam Motion shipped it directly to me and I received it before any of the other stuff from GPI I ordered. But GPI told me it was because I ordered the 8620 core and they only stock the NFC SS4 in that core.

This is going to sound stupid, but I just want to be clear so I don't misunderstand. This is just after first start, no load on engine, 25 minutes 1800-2500 rpms varying the rpms in intervals while PARKED. Similar to an old school solid lifter build, right?

Those instructions sound very similar to old school solid lifter cams, so I don't think you can go wrong there. Some people would say it is unnecessary, but I figure at the least it won't do any harm and at best...it saves your lobes/lifters.

[Greenhornet2]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Ok cool, thank you. Just got my cam today. I was confused as Cam Motion shipped it directly to me and I received it before any of the other stuff from GPI I ordered. But GPI told me it was because I ordered the 8620 core and they only stock the NFC SS4 in that core.

This is going to sound stupid, but I just want to be clear so I don't misunderstand. This is just after first start, no load on engine, 25 minutes 1800-2500 rpms varying the rpms in intervals while PARKED. Similar to an old school solid lifter build, right?

Those instructions sound very similar to old school solid lifter cams, so I don't think you can go wrong there. Some people would say it is unnecessary, but I figure at the least it won't do any harm and at best...it saves your lobes/lifters.

Yes, same way I used to break in flat tappet cams. No reason to not do this on a roller cam you are still mating metal surfaces even though it rolls rather than rubs there is still friction. I always have someone with me to top off coolant/water when the T-stat opens as well, looks for leaks or anything strange just in case.