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Old 09-17-2020, 02:18 AM   #1
Teeth
 
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Camaro doesn't exactly work like it's supposed to...

I think there is something wrong with the wiring in the car, because for one, it will not respond to any of the keyfobs. Another issue I was having is that the rear driver light would not turn on when I had the emergency button pressed.

Other issues are odd shifting, odd behaviors in it's driving period, that I haven't felt before. This all happened when I took my foot off of the accelerator when I was first driving my car out of the neighborhood, it lags into 3rd gear, and I took my foot off of it that time, which caused the car to just stop moving, and subsequently shut off.

Pulling fuses gets the car up and running again like normal (sort of). The driving is odd as stated before, which is the only odd thing. Everything else in the car works as normal, save for me still not being able to use the keyfob. I can only use the key itself.

I'll include an image of a wiring harness connecting to the fuse box to see if it has any relevancy.

That red wire is what connects to my LED inside the fake bumper scoop fyi
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Old 09-17-2020, 04:26 AM   #2
mikeman
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What's that black greasy stuff on the wiring connectors?
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Old 09-17-2020, 04:47 AM   #3
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Off topic, sorry. Why are there so many empty fuse spaces in the fuse box? What would happen if a fuse was inserted into each empty space?
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Old 09-17-2020, 05:11 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeman View Post
What's that black greasy stuff on the wiring connectors?
looks like melted insulator to me
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Old 09-17-2020, 10:57 AM   #5
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Put a meter one the positive and one to the neg battery posts and start the engine see what the voltage reads.
See it it is overcharging the battery should read around 13.8 volts.
Why I think this might be an issue is that as someone else said it looks like the wires got overheated.
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Old 09-17-2020, 11:31 AM   #6
Teeth
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warship2k15 View Post
Put a meter one the positive and one to the neg battery posts and start the engine see what the voltage reads.
See it it is overcharging the battery should read around 13.8 volts.
Why I think this might be an issue is that as someone else said it looks like the wires got overheated.
The engine won't start now, which is my problem
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS:
Cyber gray matte wrap, Danti Lambo style louvers, Granatelli Pro-stock look wing
B&M transcooler, Mishimoto oil cooler, Mishimoto catchcan, Borla/Pypebomb axle back
L99 to LS3 conversion, Vararam ram air intake, BTR Nightfury cam, Johnson lifters, LS7 injectors, Circle D 3200 stall converter, Kooks LT headers, Custom X-pipe
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Old 09-17-2020, 11:33 AM   #7
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Ok what’s the battery read now
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Old 09-17-2020, 11:39 AM   #8
Teeth
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fhrex View Post
looks like melted insulator to me
That's what I was thinking, maybe the wires had a bad time with heat?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warship2k15 View Post
Ok what’s the battery read now
It's 12.5V right now

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Originally Posted by BuddyLee View Post
Off topic, sorry. Why are there so many empty fuse spaces in the fuse box? What would happen if a fuse was inserted into each empty space?
That's what it looked like when I got the car, I don't have any extra fuses for those spots.
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B&M transcooler, Mishimoto oil cooler, Mishimoto catchcan, Borla/Pypebomb axle back
L99 to LS3 conversion, Vararam ram air intake, BTR Nightfury cam, Johnson lifters, LS7 injectors, Circle D 3200 stall converter, Kooks LT headers, Custom X-pipe
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Old 09-17-2020, 12:25 PM   #9
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Those spots have no leads in them so putting a fuse in would be futile and senseless. You definitely had an electrical issue at one time evident by melted insulators. Have the charging system load checked.
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Old 09-17-2020, 12:48 PM   #10
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Anybody know if the end of that OEM terminal, under the shielding, is a fusible link?

Also, take a look at this old thread. It has a diagram of the fusible link for the body harness in the trunk as well as for the alternator, both near the battery. Not saying this is your issue, but it's a possibility. It sounds more like a grounding issue, but that's only based on your descriptions. Once a fusible link goes, that's usually it until it's replaced. It acts as a fuse built into the wiring/harness.

Just read through these to see if it matches up with any of your issues or at least can point you in a better direction. You obviously have a wiring or electrical issue somewhere though. Whether its a grounding issue, short, or overloaded circuit/draw, that will need to be repaired or you are going to continue to have issues. Pulling fuses to keep this running is not going to end well.

Also, a good start would be to disconnect everything you have added to the electrical system to this car. Hardwired radar detectors/dashcams, subwoofers/amps, LEDs, etc. See if that makes a difference.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376496
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415866

and check out the pictures in this one. It shows the location of the links in the trunk near the battery. This one is related to the guy's flooded trunk: https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415866

You should be able to check the ones in your trunk visually to see if they are intact.
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Last edited by InFiD3ViL; 09-17-2020 at 01:11 PM.
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Old 09-17-2020, 01:35 PM   #11
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How long have you been having this problem?
Any chance this car is a salvage car or a car that has been in a flood ??
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Old 09-17-2020, 01:53 PM   #12
Teeth
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFlyingBananaSS View Post
Those spots have no leads in them so putting a fuse in would be futile and senseless. You definitely had an electrical issue at one time evident by melted insulators. Have the charging system load checked.
Will do

Quote:
Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL View Post
Anybody know if the end of that OEM terminal, under the shielding, is a fusible link?

Also, take a look at this old thread. It has a diagram of the fusible link for the body harness in the trunk as well as for the alternator, both near the battery. Not saying this is your issue, but it's a possibility. It sounds more like a grounding issue, but that's only based on your descriptions. Once a fusible link goes, that's usually it until it's replaced. It acts as a fuse built into the wiring/harness.

Just read through these to see if it matches up with any of your issues or at least can point you in a better direction. You obviously have a wiring or electrical issue somewhere though. Whether its a grounding issue, short, or overloaded circuit/draw, that will need to be repaired or you are going to continue to have issues. Pulling fuses to keep this running is not going to end well.

Also, a good start would be to disconnect everything you have added to the electrical system to this car. Hardwired radar detectors/dashcams, subwoofers/amps, LEDs, etc. See if that makes a difference.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376496
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415866

and check out the pictures in this one. It shows the location of the links in the trunk near the battery. This one is related to the guy's flooded trunk: https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415866

You should be able to check the ones in your trunk visually to see if they are intact.
I'll go ahead and do that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HDRDTD View Post
How long have you been having this problem?
Any chance this car is a salvage car or a car that has been in a flood ??
The problem just arose this week, oddly. I had a problem with my bumper when the tire treading pulled off, and the bumper fell while I was driving it to the tire shop for a new one, I'm definitely going to need a new one. That's about the worst thing that's happened to the car, and the only thing I can think of that would have any relation to this problem.
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS:
Cyber gray matte wrap, Danti Lambo style louvers, Granatelli Pro-stock look wing
B&M transcooler, Mishimoto oil cooler, Mishimoto catchcan, Borla/Pypebomb axle back
L99 to LS3 conversion, Vararam ram air intake, BTR Nightfury cam, Johnson lifters, LS7 injectors, Circle D 3200 stall converter, Kooks LT headers, Custom X-pipe
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