[NYblack1le]

I ran the g-loc gs1 and i thought the oem pad out performed it. Just my opinion but I would go back to oem pads or move you’re way up in the g-loc lineup (r10 or r12).

[GriffW]

Ok so I did another bedding procedure, which I thought was pretty thorough. I’d guess about 15-20 82-10 stops at 0.8g above (with proper warm up). I felt increased pedal travel, I could smell the pads, had decreased braking performance. Then after my cooldown, wow the break felt soo good. A bite point higher that I have ever experienced. But I look at the rotors and still I can see that the process is not complete. Did you guys close off your brake cooling ducts to get this process done? I feel like I’ll never see the fully bedded in rotor lol.

[NewCamaroOrder]

GriffW, IMHO your rotors don't look so good. Maybe check that your rotors are still in spec with a micrometer. I would think they are, but it never hurts to have a good starting point.

I learned the procedure below from a UPS diesel mechanic.
Every time you replace brake pads, scuff the rotors with a die grinder or drill. Use a fabric disk (approx. 120 grit, sometimes used to remove paint) not a sandpaper disk. You only want to create a light, consistent circular pattern on your rotors. You are not trying to remove much material. Only enough to create a consistent, even swirl pattern. Once complete clean the rotor with brake cleaner and a rag. This procedure will remove any glazing on the pads and help them bite into the rotor surface after installation. It makes the bedding process easier and more consistent.

With new pads I make sure there are no weird, sharp edges or surface imperfections. If there are use some sandpaper to knock them down and create a consistent pad surface.
* ALWAYS FOLLLOW THE PAD MANUFACTURER’S BREAK IN PROCEDURE! These instructions are usually in the box, but they can also be found online. The steps in the procedure are specific to each manufacturer. Their process is determined by the type of material used in the pad’s construction.

Honestly, brake pads are inexpensive enough and way to important not replace with new ones. I've been using Powerstop Z26 Carbon/Ceramic pads. They have good bite and generate very little brake dust.

There’s nothing wrong with cleaning your brake hardware and adding a little brake grease in the appropriate areas. If the pads can’t move as designed, you could end up with a dragging pad or pad chatter.

Switching to Stainless Steel brake lines will improve brake feel by removing hose expansion from the braking equation. Rubber brake lines expand due to the high fluid pressures created during braking. It doesn't seem like much but once that small amount of expansion has been removed, brake pedal feel can be dramatically improved.

I hope your braking issue gets resolved. Confidence in your brakes isn’t optional IMHO. Good luck and have fun!

[5.M0NSTER]

I get a little pedal sink with constant pressure on it. To a point, then it stops. Have you eliminated leakage at the brake line connections and at the bleeder valves as a cause? Air in the lines will make the pedal feel spongy, and significantly increase the effort required to generate deceleration.

[GriffW]

Thanks for all the messages everyone. I ran the car at the track and it was great, absolutely no problems. My rotors look normal after I wore off the deposits. I am still interested in the pedal feel. I assume my pedal feels the same as any other SS 1LE, but I can’t stop myself from comparing it from mustangs I have driven. I don’t know if it’s the pads or what. I have driven a couple other mustangs at the track and I don’t know if their brake booster is calibrated differently or if the more extreme pads just have that much more initial bite. I feel like my first 10% or so is light then we get into the real performance around maybe 40-60%. Where those mustangs it seems like you do all the stopping before you even get to 50% travel.

[N Camarolina]

I like the pedal feel the way it is. Longer pedal travel makes it easier to trail brake. I can't imagine having to do it with a lot less pedal travel. Would be a lot harder to modulate to split traction between braking and turning. To each his own I guess.